Hey everyone. I'm in the teardown process of my head gasket replacement and I have a few questions.
First, any tips or tricks that will make reassembly easier when it comes to putting the timing chains and gears back in? I've watched multiple YouTube videos, but I'm hoping to hear from some of you that have done this already.
Second, when it comes to removing the harmonic balancer, has anyone used the insert tool that Mopar calls for, or did you just use the rod that comes with a universal puller? Along the same lines, has anyone just threaded the bolt back in most of the way and used that with the puller?
Third, has anyone used aftermarket gaskets instead of Mopar? If so, what is the best choice? Also, what brand did you go with for the timing parts?
That's about it for now, but I'm sure I'll have more as I continue. Thanks in advance for any help, I definitely appreciate it!
The timing chains are quite easy, especially since they come with marked links. My only tip would be to rotate the cams to meet the sprockets, don't try and rotate the sprockets to meet the cam. Use channel locks and have a capable buddy slide the sprocket on while you rotate the cam to place.
Use a GOOD puller. Don't take a chance or you can damage the harmonic balancer. I cheaped out, but got away with it. Wouldn't take that chance again.
I used the Enginetech kit from rock auto. It's a complete rebuild kit with valve seals and every conceivable gasket.
Thank you both for the info. Got the heads off yesterday and dropped them off at the machine shop today.
I had an interesting conversation with one of the guys there. He told me that I only needed to have new valve seats pressed in on the intake valves. He based this statement partly on the fact that he's done 4.7 heads that have dropped a valve seat (5 or 6 of them that he recalls) and all of the dropped seats were on the intake valves.
Have any of you ever heard this before? Better yet, does anyone that has had this happen recall whether it was an intake or exhaust valve seat that dropped?
My thought is to have them all done just for the piece of mind, but I'd like to hear what you guys think.
I'd absolutely do them all. He has to pull all the valves to do the grind anyway. I'm also sure the exhaust seats can drop too given their operating conditions.
We'll, I got the heads back from the machine shop today (BTW, I did have all the valve seats replaced). I'm excited to start putting it back together, although it probably won't be until next weekend, since I have a lot going on this weekend.
I was wondering if any of you bought a universal type wrench to hold the cam gears in place while torquing the bolt down? If so, which one did you get and did it work well? Thanks
Pretty sure channel locks were all we used. What's the torque spec again? 90ft lbs?
We had one channel lock on each cam. So sprockets aligned first and bolts in snug, then get some buddies to hold the channel locks in place while you torque
Pretty sure channel locks were all we used. What's the torque spec again? 90ft lbs? We had one channel lock on each cam. So sprockets aligned first and bolts in snug, then get some buddies to hold the channel locks in place while you torque
Me too, but I used vice grips when i did mine. Set them so it takes all your strength to close them so they dont slip on the cam. I was working alone and it worked well.
Ok everyone, I have another question/problem. I had some serious carbon(?) deposits on the head mounting surface of the block and I've been trying different things to break it up. I finally got rid of most of it, and now I see why it was so difficult.
The picture below shows the worst area of the block and it's pretty bad. This area is not part of the sealing surface, but I'm really concerned that it will cause me problems anyway.
What do you guys think I should do with this (pretty sure I know the answer already)? Also, what would cause that much pitting?
Ok, thanks guys. I think I'm going to finish cleaning it up (mostly the other side) and ill be ready to start putting it back together.
Just out of curiosity, anybody change out the freeze plugs while it was a little more open down there.
I was debating on pulling the engine out the rest of the way because the rear main seal (or the front seal on the trans) is leaking. If I pull it, I'll probably do the freeze plugs while I have it out, unless that's one of those things better left alone.
I didn't do the freeze plugs. I assume they're corroded and rusted so firmly in place they've become part of the structural integrity of the block. I've heard only one case where a freeze plug popped out of a 4.7.
If you're going to pull the engine, parts it's worth doing the bottom end.
I didn't do the freeze plugs. I assume they're corroded and rusted so firmly in place they've become part of the structural integrity of the block. I've heard only one case where a freeze plug popped out of a 4.7.
If you're going to pull the engine, parts it's worth doing the bottom end.
I was thinking the same thing about doing the bottom end. Just need to research exactly what's involved and what it will cost.
If I decided to pull the engine now, would it be safe to make a fixture and bolt it to the block using three of the old head bolts on each side? I would definitely put something over the block to keep it from getting messed up. The reason I ask is that I don't see any other places to mount anything to use to lift the engine.
Figured I'd check in with an update and another question.
I did decide to pull the engine and tackle the bottom end. What a PITA that turned out to be. The dowel pins were really rusted and it took some serious effort to get that apart.
Then I lost a few weeks of work time because a friend of mine that's a machinist said he would do something with the deck surface of my block, but never followed through.
I'm back on track now and have all my parts to put it back together. The pistons and rods are fine, but I'm replacing everything else. I got a remanufactured crankshaft that came with a full bearing set (rod, main, and thrust bearings). New rings, connecting rod bolts, rear seal, and freeze plugs also.
Finally, my question. In the section of the FSM that covers the crankshaft installation, there is a note that says to apply sealant to the threads of the three bolts used to mount the target wheel to the crankshaft. What kind of sealant are they talking about there? Am I safe to assume something like loc-tite? If I use loc-tite, does anyone know which color would be good for that? Thanks
Figured I'd check in with an update and another question.
I did decide to pull the engine and tackle the bottom end. What a PITA that turned out to be. The dowel pins were really rusted and it took some serious effort to get that apart.
Then I lost a few weeks of work time because a friend of mine that's a machinist said he would do something with the deck surface of my block, but never followed through.
I'm back on track now and have all my parts to put it back together. The pistons and rods are fine, but I'm replacing everything else. I got a remanufactured crankshaft that came with a full bearing set (rod, main, and thrust bearings). New rings, connecting rod bolts, rear seal, and freeze plugs also.
Finally, my question. In the section of the FSM that covers the crankshaft installation, there is a note that says to apply sealant to the threads of the three bolts used to mount the target wheel to the crankshaft. What kind of sealant are they talking about there? Am I safe to assume something like loc-tite? If I use loc-tite, does anyone know which color would be good for that? Thanks
If it says use sealant, then Loctite blue is not sealant and will not do what they want. I'm assuming they have oil pressure behind those bolts, and they don't want it coming out. For those kind of places, I use this stuff (oil and fuel proof, kind of gummy, and stays pretty soft). You can get it anywhere. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...DtRCzdHMHK76Sh77ZxMaAo47EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Did you take your torque converter out? If not, take it out and replace the seal in the front of the transmission (I'd probably replace it anyway). If you just slid your torque converter back, but left the weight sitting on the transmission input shaft, it can warp that rubber seal and you'll gush tranny fluid until you pull your motor again. Been there, done that, wanted to shoot myself. The thing is you can get away with that for a day or two, but if it sits there for a week or more, you're probably going to wish you spent 30 minutes replacing that seal while the engine is out.
I pull the torque converter out, lay it down, and cover it with a rag. Don't forget to put it back, of course, before the motor goes back in. While you're poking around back there, look closely at your flex plate for damaged teeth or cracks around the mounting bolts. It's an easy fix with the engine out.
I don't think those bolts go through any oil channels, but not sure. I'll have to double check that this evening when I get home.
I will definitely change that trans seal also. I left the torque converter with the trans when I pulled it almost a month ago. Thanks for the tip, I appreciate it.
2001 GC Limited w/4.7 V8
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