[lakercr]

My 2001 GC 4.7 engine is dead and needs to be replaced. VIN is 1J4GW58N81C******

I've foung a 4.7 out of a 2001 Dakota. VIN is 1B7HG2ANX1S*****

Hollander number for the GC is 300-7147A
Hollander number for the Dakota is 300-7147B

I believe that they do interchange by swapping intake, oil pan and exhaust manifolds, but would like confirmation.

Appreciate your help.

[skiebuster]

I swapped a 00 into my 99

pan and mounts and exhaust manifolds are all I changed over.

[QuadraTokn]

The ONLY thing you have to look out for is the fact that in 2002 they switched to a different tone wheel on the crankshaft (16 teeth vs 32 teeth)

So you should be fine with a 2001 motor. I have heard a couple late 2001's had the different tone wheel though.

You can swap tone wheels from engine to engine. Im sure youll be fine though

[lakercr]

I know for certain that the existing engine and the one I'm looking to buy are both 16T tone wheels. The guy selling it had already installed the engine into his Dakota before he learned the importance of checking this. He now has the correct 32T long block and more experience with R&R'ing a Dakota engine.

Poor bastard.

Thanks for the help, I'm going to grab this engine tonight and get started.

[QuadraTokn]

Go grab it! Good luck.

[kerno]

I've done a few of these and just finished putting a 2001 Dakota 4.7 in a WJ yesterday. I believe the WJ and Dakota pans are nearly identical, so I've never changed the pan when doing the swap. The intake and exhaust manifolds do have to swap, and the intake gaskets are an o-ring type so they can be re-used, but they are so cheap and easy that you should replace 'em. The exhaust gaskets generally come apart when removed, so they need replacement as well. Take a look inside the trans bell housing when the engine is out. If there is any evidence of leakage, replace the trans front (converter) seal while you can. It is a $5 part that is a bear to swap once everything is back together. You might get away with leaving the A/C system charged, but I've always drained it to remove the evaporator and usually replace the receiver/drier assembly for good measure. Places like jeepair.com have 'em for about $60.

FWIW, the factory shop manual says you have to unbolt the mounts from the engine to get it out and I believe them. They have 4 bolts each, as opposed the only one bolt to hold the mount in the chassis. But the mounts can stay bolted to the frame brackets and a 15 MM offset box wrench is about essential for the job. I think leaving them in does a better job of locating the engine when you drop it back in, so the labor to remove the bolts is worth it.The intake also has to come off to remove or install the engine. The fan also should come off before you remove the radiator. Be sure to support the trans with a jack before you pull the engine. The worst part of the job is the POS exhaust pipe to manifold bolts. Be prepared for a fight and a trip to the dealer to replace one or two of the idiotic nuts. Studs in the manifold (like the rest of the world) would have been so much better.

[WiCkeDuDe]

Yeah the best way to get the engine out is to unbolt the engine mounts. It can be done without but it makes it MUCH harder.

[QuadraTokn]

I agree. You guys are talking about unbolting the engine mount brackets from the frame rails, or unbolting the mounts from the engine? Ive always unbolted the engine mounts WITH the engine mount brackets. Probably cus I always pull the trans with the engine too, so I like to have as much room as possible. I like to bolt the engine to the trans outside the vehicle since getting those bolts to line up underneath the car is such a PITA

[kerno]

Yes, if you pull the trans as well, the mounts can stay on the block. But I've never really had a problem lining the trans up when leaving it in the chassis. As long as it is supported with a jack, I've never had any problem getting them lined up and going together. I can't believe how tiny the converter to flex plate bolts are. They use 8 10MM bolts to hold the mounts on, but four puny bolts on a smaller diameter to tie the converter to the engine. But they work, so what can I say?

Today's task is replacing the guaranteed to stick or fail Teves calipers with a pair of Akebonos.