4.7 Engine rebuild question: How to remove crankshaft with engine inside? - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 08-31-2013, 08:55 PM   #46
leonhuang
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I use a broken ring to clean the piston, with brake cleaner and rug. I bought the ring compressor today in harbor freight, but it is no use... tried several times, did not work for me...so i used a slot plate from my old pc...it works perfect.

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Unread 08-31-2013, 09:00 PM   #47
leonhuang
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Turned over the block, I used grit 220 sand paper to clean the block gasket surface, then installed all 8 pistons. Then turned back to upside down again to torque the bolts of rods...
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Unread 09-26-2013, 04:34 PM   #48
leonhuang
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I have finished installing the timing system now. One question: the big bolt for the idle pulley, the torque spec. i found on book is 130 ft-lbs, it looks pretty big to me...My torque wrench does not even have that scale....

Is this a correct number? Please let me know...
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Unread 09-26-2013, 09:34 PM   #49
oldfamilyguy
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If you mean the "timing chain idler sprocket bolt" it is 25 ft. lbs. The crankshaft pulley bolt is 130, maybe that what your looking at? Those #'s from Haynes. Great job so far.
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Unread 09-27-2013, 11:53 AM   #50
leonhuang
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Thanks a lot! Now i have finished timing system, exhaust manifold, camshaft cover, will do timing cover, water pump etc. Hopefully will have the chance to put it back in the Jeep this weekend...
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Unread 09-28-2013, 06:30 PM   #51
rdkendrick
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Mr. Huang, are you taking pictures of your rebuild? I guess you are, seeing the pictures you have posted so far, but it would be nice to see your tear-down and rebuild back up from the pictures. Great job so far!

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Unread 09-29-2013, 12:17 AM   #52
leonhuang
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thanks for your comments...I do have some tear down pictures.. will post them here...
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Unread 09-29-2013, 09:29 AM   #53
StormChaserTim
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Leon, it may be a little late of me to ask, but are you using assembly lube? Assembly lube on the rod and main bearings is VITAL on the first start. It will protect the bearing surfaces from excessive wear until the oil pressure comes up on the first start.

Also, did you seal the bedplate? The bedplate uses a special sealant that must be used. Regular RTV has issues holding up after a certain amount of time.

Otherwise, you have been doing a very good job, and asking excellent questions. I've been building engines for twenty years, and I only wish I'd happened across this thread sooner to help you out.

My only other piece of advice: perfectly clean, and very close attention to torque spec. These are very high precision engines with extremely close tolerances, in some cases, in race engine territory! Back when I started out, you could rebuild a 318 doing things like scraping out the ridge with a pocket knife, and not being very careful, and it'd run for a while. Not that I would ever do that, but engines today just won't tolerate things being even off a little.

Tim
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Unread 09-29-2013, 11:32 PM   #54
leonhuang
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Thanks for your comments...I did not use assembly lube, but i saw some lube when the crank came back from machine shop, i guess that might be the assembly lube? I just followed the Haynes book and only applied a thin layer of engine oil on all the parts...I hope first few turns between steel(crankshaft) and aluminum bearing won't badly damage the surface.

I did seal the bedplate with black sealant from autozone, which is made for the oil pan and block....But i did not use it on my oilpan/block though...i used it for the bedplate...

I followed all the torque specs on the Haynes book.

Anyways, i will leave it as is and see how it goes...will let you know...

Quote:
Originally Posted by StormChaserTim View Post
Leon, it may be a little late of me to ask, but are you using assembly lube? Assembly lube on the rod and main bearings is VITAL on the first start. It will protect the bearing surfaces from excessive wear until the oil pressure comes up on the first start.

Also, did you seal the bedplate? The bedplate uses a special sealant that must be used. Regular RTV has issues holding up after a certain amount of time.

Otherwise, you have been doing a very good job, and asking excellent questions. I've been building engines for twenty years, and I only wish I'd happened across this thread sooner to help you out.

My only other piece of advice: perfectly clean, and very close attention to torque spec. These are very high precision engines with extremely close tolerances, in some cases, in race engine territory! Back when I started out, you could rebuild a 318 doing things like scraping out the ridge with a pocket knife, and not being very careful, and it'd run for a while. Not that I would ever do that, but engines today just won't tolerate things being even off a little.

Tim
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Unread 09-30-2013, 12:31 AM   #55
doorjamm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonhuang
Thanks for your comments...I did not use assembly lube, but i saw some lube when the crank came back from machine shop, i guess that might be the assembly lube? I just followed the Haynes book and only applied a thin layer of engine oil on all the parts...I hope first few turns between steel(crankshaft) and aluminum bearing won't badly damage the surface.

I did seal the bedplate with black sealant from autozone, which is made for the oil pan and block....But i did not use it on my oilpan/block though...i used it for the bedplate...

I followed all the torque specs on the Haynes book.

Anyways, i will leave it as is and see how it goes...will let you know...
I just did this build last week on my 4.7. Chrysler recommends Anaerobic sealer for the bed plate. I am not positive on how *necesarry* that is, but I used that since that's what they ask for. It's good you put oil on it, that will do a similar job as assembly lube. But interesting fact: most engine wear comes from start up of the motor. Especially on its original start up.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 10:29 AM   #56
leonhuang
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The engine is still on the engine stand. I have not put it inside the jeep. I am wondering whether I should redo the bed plate with the proper sealant and put some assembly lube on the bearings or not? I was using the normal black sealant for oil pan on the bed plate...Anybody has any experience/comments?

Thanks a lot!
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Unread 10-01-2013, 07:24 AM   #57
narnwv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonhuang View Post
The engine is still on the engine stand. I have not put it inside the jeep. I am wondering whether I should redo the bed plate with the proper sealant and put some assembly lube on the bearings or not? I was using the normal black sealant for oil pan on the bed plate...Anybody has any experience/comments?

Thanks a lot!
I would put proper assembly lube on there at least. The "lube" that came on the crankshaft was probably just the oil to keep it rust free. Assembly lube is more like a grease/paste like substance.

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Unread 10-01-2013, 09:57 AM   #58
kfxnando
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assembly lube!!
have never used it!! just used a lot of oil on assembly
then on 1st cranking (jeep has oil gouge) cranked the motor till the oil light goes off, meaning that there is some preassure all around!!

all those tools that you have bough are an investment!! as me!!
as I went along bought all kinds of tools, now days tools are not even a thought, couz over the years have bought most tools!!

then you are starting the same way as I did, and sure many others did too!!
got tired of the BS, and being ripped off, so started doing things myself!!
and most questions get ans online!!

good luck!! enjoy
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Unread 10-02-2013, 08:00 PM   #59
StormChaserTim
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The two assembly lubes I use most:

Torco MPZ:
http://www.amazon.com/Torco-A550055K.../dp/B005DTWVU0

Lubriplate 105:
http://www.amazon.com/Lubriplate-Mot...ssembly+grease

Tim
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Unread 10-27-2013, 02:15 PM   #60
MoMatt
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excellent read, thanks so much for the writeup!
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