4.7 Engine rebuild question: How to remove crankshaft with engine inside? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 63 Old 08-01-2013, 05:58 PM
rdkendrick
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Mr. Huang, you are one brave man. I'd be very apprehensive to do what you are doing. I'll keep an eye on this thread, as I want to see how it turns out.
Good luck to you, sir!

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post #32 of 63 Old 08-01-2013, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
leonhuang
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Thanks a lot for your encouragement... I was actually pissed off by my local engine re-builder, who played game on me with a land-rover and another jeep. He claimed to charge me certain amount, but ended up charging me $1500 more than i expected... It happened on my land-rover first, i said okay, maybe it is because of an imported car, he did not know parts cost, but again, he did it on a jeep, same model as this one....i could not trust him any more!!! It's kind of feeling being cheated on....

So, i told myself, WTH, i will buy another one, same model/year, and DIY...So here is the story... :-)

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Originally Posted by rdkendrick View Post
Mr. Huang, you are one brave man. I'd be very apprehensive to do what you are doing. I'll keep an eye on this thread, as I want to see how it turns out.
Good luck to you, sir!

Sent from my iPad using my fingers
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post #33 of 63 Old 08-02-2013, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
leonhuang
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engine block on engine stand now, thanks for your help, Jeeples!

Also removed converter from crankshaft ...see pics..Will send the crank for regrind.

Question:

The heads for the 4.7L engine have a common problem with the valve seat....they often drop off and fall into the cylinder, and will damage piston, valve and/or even cylinder wall.

I talked to the machine shop, they said i better change all the valve seats($500 cost) even they are still okay...what's your opinion/comments? The mileage on this jeep is 120K. If the rebuild works fine, I plan to drive it for another 100K.... Should I change all the valve seats anyways?


Also, any good recommends for the rebuild kit, i.e. timing chain, guide, oil pump, all gaskets, piston ring, head valve oil seals, water pump...etc...good price and quality. Thanks a lot!
Thanks,
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post #34 of 63 Old 08-02-2013, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
leonhuang
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the cylinders look not so good....with scratches, not sure what should i do? Any help?
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post #35 of 63 Old 08-02-2013, 11:51 PM
BillyGoatBluff
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Those "scratches" are cross hatching, it is normal and not from excessive wear.
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post #36 of 63 Old 08-03-2013, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
leonhuang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyGoatBluff View Post
Those "scratches" are cross hatching, it is normal and not from excessive wear.
i mean the vertical scratches along the cylinder wall....they are not deep, i don't even feel it when i finger it...but i do see it there...do i have to bore or just horn it?

Thanks a lot!
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post #37 of 63 Old 08-03-2013, 08:48 AM
99WJ539918
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I would replace the valve seats. I have seen many of these heads/engines get replaced for the problem you're talking about. I don't think it'll run you $500, though.
The cylinder walls look pretty good. I would just run a cylinder hone in them to clean it up a little. Good luck.

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post #38 of 63 Old 08-14-2013, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
leonhuang
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finally got the parts back

our local machine shop is slow for DIY builders, they prefer to work with professional re-builders i guess. The crank and heads took more than a week to come back.... yes, they do charge $500 for rework on the heads...so i decide not to do it....I am not going to spend money on something not broken.

I had the heads cleaned and re-surfaced, the crank shaft regrind to 10/10...

I will need to buy the re-ring kit now...found an ebay seller with 100% good review for over 2000 deals...any comments?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2003-JE...b22be1&vxp=mtr

One question: what does the 10/10 mean on the regrind crank shaft? what size main and rod bearing should I go with? 0.010 or .25? I am confused about the numbers... does 10/10 mean 0.010 inch, which is .25 mm??? please help!


I did not re-work the block, so should i go with the standard size ring set? How do I check the actuall ring size?

Thanks a lot!





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Originally Posted by 99WJ539918 View Post
I would replace the valve seats. I have seen many of these heads/engines get replaced for the problem you're talking about. I don't think it'll run you $500, though.
The cylinder walls look pretty good. I would just run a cylinder hone in them to clean it up a little. Good luck.
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post #39 of 63 Old 08-15-2013, 12:02 AM
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10/10 means that both the rod and main journals were cut .010" under-size. Order bearings accordingly.

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post #40 of 63 Old 08-15-2013, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradywgn71 View Post
10/10 means that both the rod and main journals were cut .010" under-size. Order bearings accordingly.
Thanks, I am going to buy .010" over sized main and rod bearing, and standard size ring set.

Any comments on the ebay re-ring set/ It's almost half of the local part store price...any experience?
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post #41 of 63 Old 08-16-2013, 10:34 AM
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Ebay (from reputable sellers), Rock Auto, and even Amazon (especially if you're a Prime customer, you save on shipping) would be just fine to order from. I also agree that I'd run a bottle brush through the cylinders to clean and deglaze them. As for the valve seats dropping, typically that's only been an issue if the engine has seen a severe overheat some time in the past. What happens is the hardened steel seat expands and contracts at a different rate compared to the aluminum head, overheating can cause stress fractures around the seat, causing the press fit to fail. Given the good condition of your cylinders, I doubt that would be a big concern for you.

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It is what Jeeples has *PARTIALLY* stated.
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post #42 of 63 Old 08-28-2013, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
leonhuang
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how to install main and front crankshaft seal?

I have put the crankshaft plate bed back, but forgot to put the front and main seal....i got confused from the manual...do i have to install the seal before putting the bed plate? How do i install it?
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post #43 of 63 Old 08-30-2013, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Finally figured out the issue, it is okay to install the bed plate, then the main oil seal.

here is the block with bed plate installed. Next will clean up piston/rod, install rod bearing, rings and install the assembly back into the engine.
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post #44 of 63 Old 08-30-2013, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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here is the bedplate torque spec i found online...
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post #45 of 63 Old 08-31-2013, 12:02 AM
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Looking good on the rebuild. Last time I saw a guy rebuilding the bottom end of an engine, he was putting a nice coat of oil on the back side of the bearings Are you going to buy a tool to clean the piston groves or do you have one already? Then I guess a piston ring compressor will be next.
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