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post #16 of Old 07-30-2013, 09:03 AM
alfaitalia
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Ill go one step further and say that is never coming out without some more dismantling....hood, grille etc!


If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got yourself an electrical problem!
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post #17 of Old 07-30-2013, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
leonhuang
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Yeah, that is the plan... Hood is the easiest one to remove....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
I'm pretty sure you're going to have some issues with raising the motor high enough to clear the grille/radiator and/or not hitting the hood with engine hoist. At the very least you are probably going to need to remove the hood.
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post #18 of Old 07-30-2013, 03:46 PM
drwolcot
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you don't need to remove the hood.... you are not far from removing the radiator out... I just pulled mine out engine/tranny/tcase and all. I got the same HF cherry picker and was well worth it


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post #19 of Old 07-30-2013, 04:17 PM
multmigs
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you can disconnect the 2 hood strut rods and then open the hood higher than normal which gives the extra clearance without all the extra effort of removing the hood
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post #20 of Old 07-30-2013, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
leonhuang
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I was planning to remove the engine block only, i will leave the tranny inside. So it looks easier to remove or open up more of the hood than radiator...

I also bought a 1000lb engine stand, which i plan to put the engine block on and rotate, removing the crankshaft....But I saw reviews in youtube that these stands do not really work, i.e., it can hardly rotate.

Any experience/comments?



Quote:
Originally Posted by drwolcot View Post
you don't need to remove the hood.... you are not far from removing the radiator out... I just pulled mine out engine/tranny/tcase and all. I got the same HF cherry picker and was well worth it
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post #21 of Old 07-30-2013, 06:43 PM
tkcarp01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonhuang
I was planning to remove the engine block only, i will leave the tranny inside. So it looks easier to remove or open up more of the hood than radiator...

I also bought a 1000lb engine stand, which i plan to put the engine block on and rotate, removing the crankshaft....But I saw reviews in youtube that these stands do not really work, i.e., it can hardly rotate.

Any experience/comments?
I have a 440 in my garage (for sale, who wants it?!) on that cheap HF stand, and I can rotate it fine...
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post #22 of Old 07-31-2013, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
leonhuang
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how to pull the engine block out?

I have difficulty to pull the block out....i have unbolt all bolts around the bellhouse, except the starter....do i have to remove the starter as well?

I tried jack the transmission up a bit, i preyed the engine block from the bellhouse, and can see about 1cm gap on driver side, smaller gap on passenger side(the starer is on passenger side)...but i still could not easily pull the block off...please help!!!
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post #23 of Old 07-31-2013, 03:19 PM
Jeeples
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Yes, you have the pull the starter. The bolts that hold the starter in place thread into the engine block.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjjeep19 View Post
It is what Jeeples has stated.
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post #24 of Old 07-31-2013, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
leonhuang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Yes, you have the pull the starter. The bolts that hold the starter in place thread into the engine block.
there are 2 bolts holding the starter,top and bottom, they both look like attached to the bellhouse only. is there another bolt holding to the block?
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post #25 of Old 07-31-2013, 03:51 PM
drwolcot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonhuang View Post
I was planning to remove the engine block only, i will leave the tranny inside. So it looks easier to remove or open up more of the hood than radiator...

I also bought a 1000lb engine stand, which i plan to put the engine block on and rotate, removing the crankshaft....But I saw reviews in youtube that these stands do not really work, i.e., it can hardly rotate.

Any experience/comments?
I have the HF stand as well.. it is hard to rotate but nothing terrible.. just grease it up and make sure to use the lock pin


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|
2002 WJ Overland | 4.7 H.O. | Clayton 6in LA | LSR Bumper | JKS discos | JKS Track Bar | KOR SS | BFG KM2's 285/75/17 | Carolina Front/Rear Driveshaft | Quadradrive | 125k Miles
|
|
RIP
|4.7 | 242HD | 2WD-->4WD Conversion | Vari-Lock front D30 | D44a Aussie Locker | Hybrid RCX 4in + BB | IronMan FUCA's | D30 Solid Diff Cover | Carolina Front Driveshaft | JCR Stage 3 Sliders | E-Fan Conversion | Hard-KOR SS|
WJ 2WD-->4WD Conversion Build Thread
|
|
2003 WJ Overland - SOLD
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post #26 of Old 07-31-2013, 03:52 PM
Jeeples
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No, they go through the bellhousing and into the block.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjjeep19 View Post
It is what Jeeples has stated.
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post #27 of Old 08-01-2013, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
leonhuang
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engine out, crank out....

remove the starter, took engine out and removed crank bed plate, took the crank out...
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post #28 of Old 08-01-2013, 08:04 AM
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It might have been a good idea to pull the torque converter and flexplate before removing the crank. Since you're having the crank resurfaced they'll need to be removed.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjjeep19 View Post
It is what Jeeples has stated.
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post #29 of Old 08-01-2013, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
leonhuang
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more queston on how to remove coverter and how to mount

yes...i was trying to remove, but i don't know how...it was late last night, so i just lowered the whole thing with the flywheel sitting on a small bench, while the whole block still hanging on crane, un-bolt the bed plate from underneath(i unbolted all when it's inside the jeep, but had 4 bolts loosely holding the bed plate to actually hold the crank), then took off the crank and flywheel/torque converter all together as one piece.

Question: i now have removed the crank bed plate and crank itself, only have "half" of the block hanging on crane, how do i mount it on the engine stand? Is it from the flywheel side(rear) or from the timing chain side(front)? I assume i will assemble the engine together on the engine stand...flywheel side looks better to hook up with the stand, the stand has a 4-hole piece, i could not figure out how to bolt it on the "half" block....

Thanks a lot!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
It might have been a good idea to pull the torque converter and flexplate before removing the crank. Since you're having the crank resurfaced they'll need to be removed.
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post #30 of Old 08-01-2013, 03:34 PM
Jeeples
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You'll need some longer bolts that are the same thread size/pitch as the bellhousing bolts from the transmission. The four arms on your engine stand can be positioned to match the bolt pattern on back of the block. Your longer bolts will go through the back of the four arms and into the block, then you can remove the chain holding it to the hoist.

To remove the torque converter, there should be four bolts holding it to the flex plate, then six or so bolts that hold the flex plate to the back of the crankshaft.

His: '00 WJ 4.7 Limited- Some stuff

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Quote:
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It is what Jeeples has stated.
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