4.0L Water Pump Replacement - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 19 Old 06-20-2012, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
drgonzo92
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4.0L Water Pump Replacement

Does anybody have a write up or pictures of how to replace the waterpump on an 03 WJ 4.0L? Whats everybody using for replacement brand?

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post #2 of 19 Old 06-20-2012, 08:05 AM
ChrisHager
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I used MasterPro Select from O'reilly Auto.

It's quite a simple procedure. Basically, you take off the belt, unbolt the 4 bolts holding the pulley on, pop the pulley off, remove the hoses that are clamped onto the water pump, then remove the bolts holding the water pump on. Clean it up and slap the new one on (with a gasket of course). When you clean it, be sure both surfaces are free of any old gasket. Also, you may want to stuff a shop towel or two into the hole in the head to avoid getting old gasket material in there while you clean it. On reassembly, I think I went above and beyond and also used a little RTV along with the new gasket to ensure I would have no leaks. You will need to transfer the old pulley and the metal tube from the old pump to the new pump as well.

At this point, I would consider a new thermostat and flushing the cooling system and refilling with a 50/50 mixture of Zerex G-05/Water.

Here's a picture of the water pump. The thermostat is right above the water pump.


~Chris
His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
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post #3 of 19 Old 06-20-2012, 08:56 AM
dzachareas
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Make sure you put the 90 degree tube on the new water pump BEFORE you install it onto the engine. It won't go on after you've installed the water pump, there isn't any room to twist it on, the valve cover is in the way. I learned this the hard way.
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post #4 of 19 Old 06-20-2012, 08:59 AM
ChrisHager
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Ah very good point!

~Chris
His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
His: 2009 Expedition
Hers: 2000 TJ
Hers: 2010 Jetta

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post #5 of 19 Old 06-20-2012, 11:50 AM
1AAdam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzachareas View Post
Make sure you put the 90 degree tube on the new water pump BEFORE you install it onto the engine. It won't go on after you've installed the water pump, there isn't any room to twist it on, the valve cover is in the way. I learned this the hard way.
great advice thanks a lot!! i have to track down a coolant leak this weekend.

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post #6 of 19 Old 06-20-2012, 12:21 PM
specia1k
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I've used GMB water pump's from Advance Auto Parts on both WJ's and been happy so far. Plus if you order online using Promotion: CCABIN
$10 off orders of $30 or more - $20 off orders of $50 or more - $40 off orders of $100 or more!! Just order online, get the discount and designate to pick up the parts at your neighborhood store. So your ~$57 WP is ~$37.

Good luck...

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2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Sport 2x4 4.0L
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 2x4 4.0L
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post #7 of 19 Old 06-20-2012, 12:25 PM
Luzoshi
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this help me out too!. Thanks ChrisHager!
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post #8 of 19 Old 06-20-2012, 01:39 PM
Sukey77
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Be sure not to overtighten the thermostat housing/ or water pump bolts. I felt like a complete tool when i did that.
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post #9 of 19 Old 06-20-2012, 05:29 PM
rostig1
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It sounds simple on paper or computer screen. Mine was fun. It took about 3 or so hours. Then again I have the tow package so I have two fans plus trans cooler.

Just from my experience go a head and replace the radiator and hoses. I skimped on the radiator and was pulling it about two weeks later.

If its worth doing once its worth doing right!!!
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post #10 of 19 Old 06-20-2012, 07:00 PM
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its easier than you think, i did mine with the fan out (was also replacing it) so it made it easier, and i also used the GMB new (not reman) water pump from advance, only advice ill give you is DO NOT just use the gasket, put some rtv (they will give you the right stuff) on the pump where the gasket goes, then put the gasket on then put more sealant on top of the gasket, and like everyone else said, put the metal pipe on before you install the new pump (personally i just got a new pipe from the dealer, was about $20) and the bolt torque is 22 ft lbs on the bolts for the pump, id suggest while your in there getting a new t-stat, its an easy 2 bolts, and only use mopar coolant, should be there 5year/100k coolant

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post #11 of 19 Old 06-20-2012, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc2mrg
...and only use mopar coolant, should be there 5year/100k coolant
Zerex G-05 fits Mopar's standards...

~Chris
His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
His: 2009 Expedition
Hers: 2000 TJ
Hers: 2010 Jetta

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Quote:
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post #12 of 19 Old 06-20-2012, 07:24 PM
kc2mrg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisHager View Post
Zerex G-05 fits Mopar's standards...
hmm... didnt know that, thanks for the info, it was just easier for me to buzz down to the jeep dealer down the road and get there stuff, just what ever you do, do not mix different color coolants!

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post #13 of 19 Old 06-20-2012, 09:52 PM
ChrisHager
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Believe it or not I've *heard* color doesn't necessarily designate what blend you have. But yes, a good rule of thumb is: Never mix colors. Safest bet.

~Chris
His: 2004 WJ - OME HD 'Kolak' Lift - Build Thread
His: 1979 J-10 - 3" on 33s - Build Thread
His: 2009 Expedition
Hers: 2000 TJ
Hers: 2010 Jetta

ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

Quote:
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post #14 of 19 Old 01-26-2013, 04:59 PM
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What metal pipe are you guys talking about to Install before installing the pump
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post #15 of 19 Old 01-26-2013, 06:02 PM
Cirruslydakota
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The heater core feed tube on the left side, see the picture above. Also, I started buying water pumps labeled as "New" not reman after a batch of bad water pumps from autozone years ago on my chevy 350.

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