4.0 Valve Cover Gasket - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > WJ Grand Cherokee Forum > 4.0 Valve Cover Gasket

XJ Rail Sale!The Ruffstuff NOT Universal 4 Link Kit!Vanco Big Brake Kit Promotion!

Reply
Unread 01-15-2014, 03:44 PM   #1
bayouguy
Registered User
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: mendon, MI
Posts: 103
Wj 4.0 Valve Cover Gasket

This may seem like a simple / dumb question but I have all of the stuff to change my valve cover gasket but am wondering if the rear CCV elbow needs to be removed from the cover to have enough room to clear the fire wall?

On the 93 I did it had to be removed but those were much easier being 1/4 turn removal.

I have new elbows / grommets to go in.

Anything else I should be looking for while the cover is off?

bayouguy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 04:06 PM   #2
rcwj04
Registered User
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Flemington, New Jersey
Posts: 836
When I did my valve cover I had to take it off, it's going to be a major pain to remove it without breaking it. Can't put the new one back on until the valve cover is back on and that one is a pain to. Have fun!
__________________




Quote:
You forget that most members here don't own a crystal ball to tell you exactly what your problem is, specially with bad pictures that don't say/show much of anything... -Jacko84

Just a 19 year old kid with a Jeep, and broke because of it, and loving every moment.
---------------------------------------------------------------
2004 WJ Laredo 4.0 116k
2" BDS coils & Bilstein 5100's | Addco rear swaybar with energy bushings |
K&N FIPK | glasspack | plasti-dipped badges | 17" moabs | HID's, 245/65/17 Cooper Discover AT3 | Rola rack | Fawkes stand alone shackle tabs | Bed lined interior (what a pain that was)
rcwj04 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 04:19 PM   #3
doityourselfMM
Senior Member
 
doityourselfMM's Avatar
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: manassas, va
Posts: 787
As I recall, as the valve cover is lifted up, it can roll over, as it clears the rockers. If not, saw off the top, but leave a little to grab on to, for removal. It will most likely crack and shatter anyway. They become brittle as hell.

The front edge/ lip of my VC was hitting the upper radiator hose clamp. When I moved the clamp to gain access, of course coolant started to flow.

Keep track of which bolt and/or stud comes out of which hole.

Lube the new donuts and elbows with engine oil. I did the grommet in the VC first, installed the VC, then wiggled the elbows in place. I'm sure you know, but the elbow with the valve goes in the rear of the VC.
doityourselfMM is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 04:56 PM   #4
spud2388
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 345
I changed mine a few weeks ago, and I would recommend replacing both the front and rear elbows and grommets at the same time. They are inexpensive and easier to do once its off the motor. And you DO NOT have to wait and install the rear one until after the cover is on, but it does make it a little easier. A little hint, put a little oil around the new grommets and they slide right on.
spud2388 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 05:02 PM   #5
rcwj04
Registered User
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Flemington, New Jersey
Posts: 836
Quote:
Originally Posted by spud2388 View Post
I changed mine a few weeks ago, and I would recommend replacing both the front and rear elbows and grommets at the same time. They are inexpensive and easier to do once its off the motor. And you DO NOT have to wait and install the rear one until after the cover is on, but it does make it a little easier. A little hint, put a little oil around the new grommets and they slide right on.
I must be losing my mind but I remember my valve cover didn't have the clearance under the top of the firewall that it needed to fit, no matter how I angled it, it would not fit
__________________




Quote:
You forget that most members here don't own a crystal ball to tell you exactly what your problem is, specially with bad pictures that don't say/show much of anything... -Jacko84

Just a 19 year old kid with a Jeep, and broke because of it, and loving every moment.
---------------------------------------------------------------
2004 WJ Laredo 4.0 116k
2" BDS coils & Bilstein 5100's | Addco rear swaybar with energy bushings |
K&N FIPK | glasspack | plasti-dipped badges | 17" moabs | HID's, 245/65/17 Cooper Discover AT3 | Rola rack | Fawkes stand alone shackle tabs | Bed lined interior (what a pain that was)
rcwj04 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 05:11 PM   #6
new2site
Registered User
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Orange county, CA
Posts: 826
YOU CAN REMOVE IT WITH THE CCV ELBOW ON....YOU DO THIS BY LIFTING THE FRONT UP...THEN TURN COVER TOWARDS PASSENGER SIDE AS YOU LIFT UP AND PULL OUT...it's tight but will come out this way.
And I recommend doing it this way...otherwise if you try to take it off on engine (elbow) you're probably going to break it and pieces will fall down onto your cyl head ...and you never know..one could fall down into the pushrod valleys and then you'd be hating life.


*Plus it's easier to remove and install elbows with it off the engine..still a headache though..they're really pressured into the fitting holes good. I strategically used a small 1x1 wood beam and rubber mallot to tap edges of new elbows in place.
new2site is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 05:58 PM   #7
bayouguy
Registered User
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: mendon, MI
Posts: 103
I have both new elbows and grommets.

Anything else in particular I need to look for / check while I have the cover off?
bayouguy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 06:31 PM   #8
ShadowTek
Registered User
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Somewhere, Nowhere
Posts: 39
Check the wire bundle that runs behind the valve cover for melting.

Even if you don't have damage, I'd put a peice of hose over the last head bolt on the drivers side to keep it from rubbing into the wire bundle later.

Some aluminum heat shield tape over that area would be good too. The hole on the left in my pic was due to pure heat from contact with the valve cover. The hole on the right was due to contact with the bolt.

ShadowTek is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 06:56 PM   #9
new2site
Registered User
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Orange county, CA
Posts: 826
*Be careful with unhooking the throttle /kickdown/cruise control cables...the ends/connectors are plastic and can break easily if you're removing them incorrectly:
-The one closest to the throttle body prys off (flat head screwdriver) sideways TOWARDS the throttle body / rear of vehicle.
-The next two "unhook" by slightly pulling them towards the Driver-side fender / turn throttle to gain a little slack.
new2site is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 07:06 PM   #10
ShadowTek
Registered User
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Somewhere, Nowhere
Posts: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by new2site View Post
*Be careful with unhooking the throttle /kickdown/cruise control cables...they are plastic and can break easily if you're removing them incorrectly
When I put mine back together, I lubed them with silicone grease so they'll hopefully come off next time with minimal force.
ShadowTek is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 07:10 PM   #11
bayouguy
Registered User
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: mendon, MI
Posts: 103
Good info
I suppose if I am getting this far I may as well clean the throttle body too.
bayouguy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-15-2014, 09:51 PM   #12
spud2388
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 345
Clean around the valve cover BEFORE you take it off. There is a lot of junk and debris that builds up between the cover and manifolds and a quick dusting/air blowing/wiping will remove the loose stuff and keep it from getting into the crankcase. And, of course, take your time and learn something.
spud2388 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-16-2014, 12:50 AM   #13
RigoJeep
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: LA, Ca
Posts: 116
Spray some WD40 on the hose connected to rear CCV valve and you should be able to twist it off. I replaced the breather hose from the air intake to the front CCV valve with 1/2" ID radiator hose ($2). Dealer wanted $28! Save yourself some time, just break that rear valve...it's gonna come out in pieces anyway!
RigoJeep is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-16-2014, 05:52 PM   #14
bayouguy
Registered User
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: mendon, MI
Posts: 103
All good info.
Thanks
bayouguy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-29-2014, 08:51 PM   #15
detroitrust
Registered User
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: cary, nc
Posts: 15
Spud is so right. If you've had a leak, which is the reason to change the valve cover gasket, it will be caked with debris as was mine. It's a royal ***** to clean after you expose the area under the cover and you haven't cleaned it. Also, I don't know what you guys use to clean the cover, but mine is a sob to clean. The oil is baked on and tough to get off. Maybe its the freaking cold in my un-heated garage. Tried brake cleaner, GUNK, acetone, and now soaking with degreaser. Really wish I had a parts cleaner.

Now, removing mine, I broke the plastic housing that holds the wire harness as I tried to wiggle it off the bosses so I could get some additional clearance. I don't think I need to replace it. All the stuff near the exhaust manifold is brittle. My rear retainer for the wire harness attached to the rear boss on the VC was broke but again , I don't think its an issue.

I did clean the throttle body and it was a freaking mess. Don't know if this will benefit anything, but the dealer wanted $60 to do it along with $230 to do the VCG. I can't believe they would take the time and caution to clean the area trying to avoid debris falling into the head.

SO far I have the VC off and awaiting parts to reassemble. This is not something I would like to do often. You guys that get this done in an hour are wizards.
detroitrust is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools






Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.