32"s on 2.5 inch and 2inch bumpstops, problems? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 76 Old 04-12-2011, 08:06 AM
rcking323
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I suppose that makes some sense. I'm done de-railing this thread now. sorry for that

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post #17 of 76 Old 04-12-2011, 08:13 AM
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haha...don't worry about it...you weren't way off topic or anything...maybe a slight thread jack but it's all good...happens to nearly every thread on here...lol

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post #18 of 76 Old 04-12-2011, 09:16 AM
AGDubyaJ
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you can run roughly 32s on a 2" SPRING LIFT. im running 255/75 17 BFG M/Ts with JK takeoffs, granted they were about 70% tread when i got em, so not a "NEW" tire. i have yet to disco my front sway, but i dont see rubbing being a bad issue (i cut my front bumper to hell and ripped out all my fender liners) probably going to need a lightly longer bumpstop. you WILL need bumptops for the rear, maybe only an inch or so longer though. Im not trying to offend anyone here, but i always read "running 32s on a 2 inch is stupid", "youll rub way too bad". people with a 5" lift and 32s still rub! thats the curse of small wheel wells. and isnt the whole point of lifting to run the BIGGEST tire possible?

that being said, my next tires will be 31s i am definetly going a little bit smaller.

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post #19 of 76 Old 04-12-2011, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
Or just suck it up and go 4"...trim a little bumper, maybe hammer the fender seam a little and run your 32's. Or 31's for that matter. I am going 4" on 31's as soon as I have the money. I think the combo looks good and will give me much more room to not rub and help with my mpg because I know that 32's KILLED my gas mileage. As great as they looked...I'll never go back to that size or larger on a DD WJ.
Did you go to steel wheels and heavy versions of a 32. if you care about economy at all dont even think about steel wheels, thats what kills your economy, They weigh 10 pounds plus more than aluminum wheels. If you put heavy tires on as well, its even worse.

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post #20 of 76 Old 04-12-2011, 09:28 AM
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Did you go to steel wheels and heavy versions of a 32. if you care about economy at all dont even think about steel wheels, thats what kills your economy, They weigh 10 pounds plus more than aluminum wheels. If you put heavy tires on as well, its even worse.
YEah...I did...15" steelies. Right now I am looking at possibly 16" wheels since it seems the 16" tires are only slightly more money then 15" tires and hopefully the weight savings in aluminum vs steel wheels will save enough gas to pay for the tire cost difference over their life.

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post #21 of 76 Old 04-12-2011, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nubster

YEah...I did...15" steelies. Right now I am looking at possibly 16" wheels since it seems the 16" tires are only slightly more money then 15" tires and hopefully the weight savings in aluminum vs steel wheels will save enough gas to pay for the tire cost difference over their life.
It should more than pay for its self. If you can load c tires vs. Es it will help a ton too

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post #22 of 76 Old 04-12-2011, 11:35 AM
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Running improper gear ratio kills your gas mileage more than running steel wheels. Steel wheels don't help but they can take a beating and not bend.

To the OP on the Clayton lift in the future...you do realize welding is required there and it's not a "bolt on" lift right?

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post #23 of 76 Old 04-12-2011, 12:36 PM
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lol. It was actually not the op that said that, it was me. But either way, I do realize that and, fortunately, I have a few friends with some serious welding skills that will be able to help me out.
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post #24 of 76 Old 04-12-2011, 05:36 PM
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I'm running 32's on Moab takeoffs with the OME HD springs and 3/4 spacers. There was a lot of rubbing on the bottom back edge of the front bumper. I trimmed about 2 1/2" off the bottom of the front bumper, tapering down to nothing trimmed at the top. I wanted to leave the top rivet in place. I also trimmed up the front lower portion of the inner fender and added one rivet to the inner fender to keep it up out of the way. Here are a couple pictures:





And when one of the rear wheels is stuffed there is a minor bit of rubbing on the bottom forward edges of the rear bumper. But I haven't trimmed the rear yet because it barely rubs but I will trim it similar to the front.


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post #25 of 76 Old 04-12-2011, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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Just fyi the reason I am considering running 32's and when I say that I mean 31.7" 265 70 17's is because I am kinda stuck on duratracs and they only make the 31's or 245 70 17 in a e rating which actually weigh more than the 32's which come in a c rating. The weight is pretty close 2 lbs but really I don't want the rough ride usually associated with e rated tires. So unless I decide on a different tire altogether, it would be a choice between rough ride and rubbing. Also 245 70 17 look a little bycycle wheelish as well.

My intention is to keep it to mild trail riding and DD so I am not too worried about discoed full flex situations, especially if the bumpstops stop it from happening cause the tires cant stuff up that far.

It seems like you guys are saying that the bumpstops wont help which seems weird cause it keeps the tires two inches further down than stock and the tires are only one inch higher from the hub than stock. I know they are a bit wider too but you would think it would be enough.

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post #26 of 76 Old 04-12-2011, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jdrogers View Post
I'm running 32's on Moab takeoffs with the OME HD springs and 3/4 spacers. There was a lot of rubbing on the bottom back edge of the front bumper. I trimmed about 2 1/2" off the bottom of the front bumper, tapering down to nothing trimmed at the top. I wanted to leave the top rivet in place. I also trimmed up the front lower portion of the inner fender and added one rivet to the inner fender to keep it up out of the way.
And when one of the rear wheels is stuffed there is a minor bit of rubbing on the bottom forward edges of the rear bumper. But I haven't trimmed the rear yet because it barely rubs but I will trim it similar to the front.
thanks for the reply, first off how much actual lift are you running hub to fender? ome has changed their heights over the years, and also are you running bumpstops and would they fix the problem on their own other than the front bumper which I believe is from turning the steering.

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post #27 of 76 Old 04-12-2011, 06:21 PM
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OMD HD springs net around 3" plus the 3/4" spacers

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post #28 of 76 Old 04-12-2011, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by =KZ= View Post
thanks for the reply, first off how much actual lift are you running hub to fender? ome has changed their heights over the years, and also are you running bumpstops and would they fix the problem on their own other than the front bumper which I believe is from turning the steering.
I'll have to measure the actual lift tomorrow.

The bump stops will not solve the rubbing on the front bumper. The rubbing occurs on level ground when backing up and turning. Trimming the bumper is very easy. I just planned the line I wanted using masking tape and then cut the plastic using sheet metal tin snips and then a little bit of sandpaper to completely clean up the edge.

Bump stops are a good idea, but I haven't gotten around to them yet. More important would be some front spring retainers...

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post #29 of 76 Old 04-13-2011, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by =KZ= View Post
Just fyi the reason I am considering running 32's and when I say that I mean 31.7" 265 70 17's is because I am kinda stuck on duratracs and they only make the 31's or 245 70 17 in a e rating which actually weigh more than the 32's which come in a c rating. The weight is pretty close 2 lbs but really I don't want the rough ride usually associated with e rated tires. So unless I decide on a different tire altogether, it would be a choice between rough ride and rubbing. Also 245 70 17 look a little bycycle wheelish as well.

My intention is to keep it to mild trail riding and DD so I am not too worried about discoed full flex situations, especially if the bumpstops stop it from happening cause the tires cant stuff up that far.

It seems like you guys are saying that the bumpstops wont help which seems weird cause it keeps the tires two inches further down than stock and the tires are only one inch higher from the hub than stock. I know they are a bit wider too but you would think it would be enough.
i ran 245/75/17 duratracs with 2.5" BB and it was horrible.... i did it as temporary way to run my new tires for winter because my previous ones were bald. it was the worst month of my life when it came to driving my jeep. the rear rubbed going up ANY incline, and the front rubbed even after a decent amount of trimming. i literally replaced my fog light bulbs once a week, because the tires would hit them and break them. i had to replace the wires to my fogs too, because the tires wore through the coating, and it kept popping my fuse. one day, my tire bumped my fog, and i didn't know it... my bulb cocked in housing, and melted it almost to the bottom. needless to say, i didn't run bulbs in my fogs until i got a lift that was actually BIG ENOUGH to run the tires..... the duratracs rock, but i wouldn't even consider them unless you go with a min. 3" spring lift

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post #30 of 76 Old 04-13-2011, 01:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myjeeplovesmud View Post
i ran 245/75/17 duratracs with 2.5" BB and it was horrible.... i did it as temporary way to run my new tires for winter because my previous ones were bald. it was the worst month of my life when it came to driving my jeep. the rear rubbed going up ANY incline, and the front rubbed even after a decent amount of trimming. i literally replaced my fog light bulbs once a week, because the tires would hit them and break them. i had to replace the wires to my fogs too, because the tires wore through the coating, and it kept popping my fuse. one day, my tire bumped my fog, and i didn't know it... my bulb cocked in housing, and melted it almost to the bottom. needless to say, i didn't run bulbs in my fogs until i got a lift that was actually BIG ENOUGH to run the tires..... the duratracs rock, but i wouldn't even consider them unless you go with a min. 3" spring lift
Thanks for warning me in no uncertain terms, I am a little surprised you had that many problems but very much appreciate the effort made to avoid me making a mistake. However there is still one thing. You haven't really addressed, whether the problem is fixed with bump stops or not, which is the information I am actually after. I know thats not ideal because you will lose articulation but I may choose that over a rough ride or moving away from duratracs. Now I am especially interested in anyone's experience who have bump stops installed because that's the best way to know but jeese it seems like nobody actually runs them.

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