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javsst 11-08-2013 03:39 PM

2004 GC - 4.0L Straight Six Valve Cover
Guys -

Been noticing some burnt oil smell off the exhaust and there's some oil
residue on the side of the block near the spark plugs, so I'm assuming
it's the valve cover. The GC has about 140K, so glad it lasted this long.

I thought I read that the valve cover gasket isn't replaceable and should
be repaired with sealant??

I've seen threads about replacing the gasket, but it might pertain to a v6 or



the88thpianoman 11-08-2013 03:57 PM

It's not a tough job to replace the gasket, there's a torque sequence to follow and you have to be careful not to over torque it. I'm sure someone can chime in the with detailed specs.

When you have the valve cover off, you're going to want to replace the grommets and elbows for the CCV if you never have before. They likely need replacement, and because they tend to fall apart and drop detrimental little pieces of plastic into the engine when you try to remove them, they need to be done with the valve cover off the engine. Not to mention they are extremely difficult to remove and press in, even with the valve cover off the Jeep. I wouldn't even want to try it with the cover in place. Just a suggestion since I'm a fan of doing things only once.

new2site 11-09-2013 01:19 AM

The gasket is supposed to be re-usable -like you mentioned by just putting silicone sealant in any cracks..but you might not want to risk it and get new one.

On removing throttle body cables take special note here how the three cables come off ...they're plastic ends so you want to be careful.
The one closest to the throttle body is a "ball & socket" connection - it pops off SIDEWAYS towards the throttle body..the next two hook over the prongs--to remove these two turn the throttle (like you're giving it gas) and push them towards the drivers side fender and they pop right off.
See 6:00 on video here:

On reinstallation of cover bolts I just tightened mine up working out from the middle in a criss-cross pattern ---tightened them all about 1/4 turn past snug--no leaks.
Like Pianoman stated replace the grommets and elbows for the CCV while you have it off...they're a headache getting the old ones out...most likely end up busting them out in pieces ..carefully/strategically tap the new ones in with wood shaft.
Name and part numbers: (confirm with parts supplier)

-CCV Elbow with fixed orifice: #47057 (This one I believe is the correct but "will come up" as incompatible with WJ's ...think that's an error in auto parts system..when in reality is'll have to verify this)
-Fresh Air Elbow: #47079
-Grommets: #42344

Cirruslydakota 11-09-2013 07:03 AM

Just put a new one on it, they're pretty cheap and its an easy job. While you're at it replace the CCV's and the grommets while its off, otherwise they break apart and fall in.

the88thpianoman 11-09-2013 12:58 PM


Originally Posted by new2site (Post 17561674)
The gasket is supposed to be re-usable -like you mentioned by just putting silicone sealant in any cracks..but you might not want to risk it and get new one.

At 140k miles, the gasket is completely shot. There is no possible way using the old one is an option.

javsst 11-09-2013 07:46 PM

Guys - thanks for all the great info.

Sounds like replacing the gasket is the best way to go.


curbry 11-10-2013 06:10 PM

I need to do this as well. Wondering if going to Napa is any better than just getting the gasket from the dealer.

Cirruslydakota 11-11-2013 08:00 AM

Don't go to the dealer for this and heres why.

Fel-pro is the OEM supplier of that gasket so go get it from advance/auto zone/ or rock auto. When you get it look on the metal brace thats in the middle and you'll see the Mopar part number stamped right on it.

The time now is 05:47 AM.

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