Great write up!
Are you worried at all about bearing surfaces after the lifter metal was running through the engine?
I wiped a cam in my 460 and it really screwed things up (of course it was 12 lobes worth of steel in my case)
I just did a motor in my XJ and need to get to the dealer for the fuel/timing adjustment as well. How long can you get away with not setting it and still driving? I have a pretty tight schedule this week
Current: 99XJ 6.5 lift-Bought 2015
Sold: Patriot Blue 00 XJ.
'sploded: 01 stock-0331 head victim
Thanks! I'm not too worried about the bearings. The cam bearings did not look scored amd did not show signs of overheating so I imagine they are ok.
I drove mine for a couple of months just being 'timed by ear'. I feel like once it was timed by the dealer, I may have gained a tiny bit of power and possibly some mpgs. As long as it isn't running poorly, you should probably be fine to drive it until you were able to get it in to the dealer.
Hi, Chris 1st I would like to thank you for a job well done it represents!
Now please if you could help me..?? I replaced my lifters following instructions the're great just one problem I did not follow directions as I should have, and did not place the timing on TDC placed everything back bla,bla,bla, so after I tray to start engine and it wouldn'tstart, it miss fires a lot, and it won't start, so I read your instrunctions back and realized I did not placed on TDC before I removed the sprockets time chain, so I toke everything out Again and this time aligned the marks on HB and TS but still get same result miss fires a lot and it wont start HELPPPP!!! PLease ????
Hmmm... Let me make sure I have this right. You have the marks properly aligned on the sprockets and I'm also assuming you have the Camshaft Position Sensor properly aligned as well? If yes on both parts, perhaps you are 180° out of time. Take the spark plug out of the #1 cylinder and turn the engine over until you are on the compression stroke on the #1 cylinder. You can tell by holding your thumb over the spark plug hole. When it starts pushing air against your thumb, you are on the compression stroke. Bring the cylinder to the top of its travel on this stroke. Re-align the cam position sensor once you are at TDC and re-install. You can verify that you have everything aligned properly by looking at the harmonic balancer and checking that the mark lines up with the mark on the timing cover.
Wait... If it almost starts, there's always the chance that the CPS is not 'perfect'. You could try turning it slightly one way or the other and see if it starts as well. Mine was about 30° out yet it still ran - ran very poorly but did carry itself a little. Once I aligned it, it fired up nicely.
Thanks Richard! I appreciate the help I find on here so I figured I may as well snap pics and do a write up here and there since I'm doing the project anyway. I figure someone will need some help eventually so hopefully they can benefit from my research/work.
A friend of mine had the same thing happen on his 04 TJ last year at 68,000 miles. He got a brand new motor under the 7/70 powertrain warranty...but our WJs are out of that period now. People need to know how to do this job because it will come up a lot if people aren't using high-Zinc oils in their 4.0s. Again, nicely done, well documented with pictures, and a lot of the process will be helpful for things like "how to change radiator" questions.
Knowing I had to do this project, I started looking into a more aggressive cam but I really didn't know what was involved in upgrading. I also was running on a deadline to get my parts so with the lack of knowledge and time, I ended up going with the stock duration camshaft. Had there been a definite upgrade that was mild enough to not create idle issues, I probably would have opted for a more aggressive one. I'd be curious to hear if someone has done just that - upgrade the cam in these 4.0's while maintaining mainly stock components.
This is on my "to-do" list, and has been for about a year and a half. I started having a ticking issue after dropping in a "new" used engine with about 117k on it. Engine ran great when I went to c heck it out in the wrecked Jeep, but after getting it all installed, it started ticking...knocking. at first I thought it was the piston skirt issue or a flex-plate crack or bolt I didn't tighten in the process.
By doing something similar to what you did I was able to figure it out by running vehicle with valve cover off and using a feeler gauge I was able to pinpoint mine to #5 as well. I then pulled the rocker arms and push rods on # 5 and the ticking completely went away as expected. So I figure I will eventually need to replace this but so far so good ....knock on wood. I have moved my OCI up to 3000 and went with HDEO and good quality filters. playing around with a magnet no metal particles are in oil and the one filter I tore apart looked good. So I guess if I see a check engine light for misses in my cylinder #5 I will k now I have a pinhole or ground down low enough to not lift anymore.
I too have been doing some research in a camshaft upgrade and I have it narrowed down to a Mopar cam or a comp cam. I wanted to make it just a small jump above stock to keep it relevantly simple for the computer to compensate with.
I will keep you updated on/if I ever get around to doing one of these on my WJ and I will defiantly be back looking over your writeup!
I don't know if the Comp Cam is the best idea. There have been more than a few failures lately, there was a big one last week that failed on 4 lobes in a fresh stroker motor... filled the whole engine with shavings and needs a 2nd rebuild.
505 Performance is a Jeep specialist, they have some very enticing cam offerings for the 4.0
Nice work, I am seriously suprised that your bearings arent scored, while like mine they may not have been knocking but your cam looks as torn up as mine was. I lost 4 lobes though and a few more were showing signs of failure. The copious amount of metal in the oil.... well.....
I had zero knocking and oil pressure with a gauge was 65psi at 2000 and 40-45 at idle. Tough little engine it got us 300 miles back home from the point i first heard the noise.
06-Corvette z51-6spd,b&b,K&N low miles.
77-Corvette Stingray 496 BBC/TH400 built 667hp+
00 WJ 4x4, 4.7 stroker, turbocharged,..lots more..
01 WJ 4x2 4.7v8 Limited (needs valve job)
90 Grand Wagoneer 401 Edelbrock Heads, Lunati .510/.527 FT Cam, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, Holley HP 750, Thorley Headers, HEI, Electric Fan w Digital controller,4" lift 31x10.50 Goodyear Duratrac's on Pro-Comp Wheels,new interior, seats,seals,Alpine and JL full system, Remote HEI, Clifford 2 way with remote start,windows,tailgate.
96 Cherokee Country 4dr/2x2 White/Tan 3" Lift Sahara 18" Wheels 32.5"'s 99up head and intake- for sale soon!
I think my cam was wearing slowly over a long period of time - at least I hope - letting the filter and oil changes keep the metal shavings in the engine to a minimum. When I changed the oil when this mess happened, I don't recall seeing any major amounts of metal or 'glitter' or anything of that sort. So for now, I'll keep my fingers crossed that I don't have any other issues pop up. Since I've changed out the cam/lifters, it's been running wonderfully.