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Unread 06-15-2013, 10:48 AM   #1
jimnj72
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2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo I6 Overheating

Was driving one day and it overheated. Pulled over and saw coolant pouring out of my radiator. Had the radiator changed, and it was still overheating although no leaks. Noticed the fan was not engaging so replaced the fan relay and now fan seems to go on as it should when it reaches temperature or I turn on the AC. Also replaced the thermostat. The engine still overheats within 7-8 minutes from cold at idle. There doesn't appear to be any visible leaks or coolant on the ground when running, I have no white smoke from the tail pipe and my oil and coolant look clean to me. I also had a mechanic try a block test which didn't change the color of the liquid. Could this still be a blown head gasket or worse. I have also tried burping the system to make sure there is no air pockets but when I do that I expel quite a bit of coolant from the radiator through the cap opening. I'm really a novice but tried a few of the things I have read in these forums as related to the cooling system. Wondering if anyone had any other ideas. If the fan is going on does that mean the temperature sensor is ok? How do I know if the thermostat is opening? Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide.


Last edited by jimnj72; 06-15-2013 at 11:28 AM..
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Unread 06-15-2013, 11:05 AM   #2
tim0
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Well first off you have the I6 not V6 in the 2000 Grand Cherokee. The I6 can be hard to get bled after radiator change, they should have a bleeders to assist but is easier to do with the front elevated. Like on ramps in front.

Now when you say over heats in 7-8 min from cold, are you saying it poors coolant out the cap, bubbles in the overflow tank or the gauge shows hot?

Have you checked the coolant level at the radiator cap when cold or just at the overfill tank?
Remember this is a pressurized system so don't open the cap when hot, let it cool first.
I tend to squeeze the radiator hose to insure no pressure before opening the cap.

If your thermostat is opening the radiator will get hot and the air the radiator fan is blowing will be very warm.
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Unread 06-15-2013, 11:06 AM   #3
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Unread 06-15-2013, 11:36 AM   #4
jimnj72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim0 View Post
Well first off you have the I6 not V6 in the 2000 Grand Cherokee. The I6 can be hard to get bled after radiator change, they should have a bleeders to assist but is easier to do with the front elevated. Like on ramps in front.

Now when you say over heats in 7-8 min from cold, are you saying it poors coolant out the cap, bubbles in the overflow tank or the gauge shows hot?

Have you checked the coolant level at the radiator cap when cold or just at the overfill tank?
Remember this is a pressurized system so don't open the cap when hot, let it cool first.
I tend to squeeze the radiator hose to insure no pressure before opening the cap.

If your thermostat is opening the radiator will get hot and the air the radiator fan is blowing will be very warm.
Thanks. Changed the subject title.

It shows hot on the gauge and bubbles in the overflow tank when it overheats. If I leave the radiator cap off when trying to burp it overflows eventually through the cap opening and continues to do so, I tried to release air by pressing on the hose. I did try this with the driver side front tire elevated. Should the whole front be elevated? When cold I have opened the cap can see fluid. I added a bit to make sure as well. Is there another way to check?
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Unread 06-15-2013, 12:20 PM   #5
tim0
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With engine cool and the front elevated on both sides pull the heater hose off at the thermostat housing on the front top of the engine. This is the small hose and not the radiator hose. Fill the system at the radiator cap till coolant flows out of the pipe and re-install the hose.
This will get out all the air from the engine and the only air left in the system will in the heater core and hoses.

If you have over heated your jeep and have not replaced the thermostat, you should think about replacing it ASAP.
If its new and you just have not been able to get all the air out for proper operation you may be good to go after getting the air out.

The radiator cap must be on when the engine is running, this is a pressurized system. When the thermostat opens and circulation has started it will suck coolant back in from the overflow tank to re-fill the system as needed. So be sure you have enough coolant in the overflow tank. When you see the coolant level dropping in the overfill tank you can open the radiator cap and fill the radiator. You must be fast about this and replace the cap after filling the system or it will poor back out the coolant you just added.
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Unread 06-15-2013, 01:41 PM   #6
jimnj72
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Thanks I will put it up on ramps and take the heater hose off. How much coolant should I allow to flow out, just enough that I see it has come out or is there any benefit to allowing more overflow. Is there anything else I should do before I let it heat up again or would that pretty much tell me its not just an air pocket issue if I start it and it goes over temp again. Also should I run it on flat ground the first time or is there a benefit to running it elevated. Thanks for quick responses.
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Unread 06-15-2013, 03:07 PM   #7
jimnj72
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I added coolant with the heater hose off with the Jeep elevated and it almost immediately started overflowing. I added more to make sure and it continued to do so. I did take note that the air coming from the front grill and on the engine side was not hot. I also ran the heater and the air was luke warm at best even when the jeep had gotten over normal operating temperature. I replaced the thermostat as well as the fan relay in the past week. I was trying to think of what might be left. Symptoms of a bad water pump besides leaking, anyway for me to check that? Temperature sensor failure? does the fan going on mean thats working? Thanks again.
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Unread 06-15-2013, 03:39 PM   #8
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What is wrong with the search button? This has been discussed a millions of times and the answer is there.
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Unread 06-15-2013, 08:23 PM   #9
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The WJ 4.0's have an open cooling system (as opposed to a closed like the old XJ's and are the WORST to get the air out of). When the engine has been running, NEVER open the radiator cap. It is pressurized.

From a cold engine, start your jeep with the radiator cap off. Put the heat on full blast, and let the engine warm to operating temperature. As previously mentioned, coolant will be drawn in from the overflow tank as the system require it so keep an eye on it and add when necessary, but don't over fill. What you want to be watching is two things. Firstly, your temp gauge in case there is actually another issue causing the overheating, and the prime reason of getting the air out of the system if this is in fact the cause of it. Now, there is actually a proper funnel to use on the radiator cap opening but it's not a have to have. If you have one put it on and put a bit of coolant into it. (if not not it'll just be a bit messier is all). Remember to keep checking the actual temp gauge.

Now, watching the cap opening you'll see coolant being sucked into the rad. This is happening as the air is working it's way out. If you can't see coolant add some to you can but not to the top. It will come out a bit as the air works it's way out. ( this is why a proper funnel helps. Keeps the splashing as air comes out contained and you can leave a big of coolant in the bottom of it) With out the funnel you just keep an eye and when a lot of air comes out and you can't see coolant, add some more in again. As well add to the overflow as needed as well. I usually try to keep it half way between the high and low mark. If things are going as they should, and barring any other issues, you'll not see the temp gauge show as overheating. If it is, it points to another cause. (I've done mine from a fresh fill, and bleeding has never caused it to overheat). This will take you probably 20-30min from start to finish. What you will see is eventually the coolant near the top of the cap opening which you'll be able to tell as well that it is moving, but not splashing due to trapped air pretty much out of the system. I usually let it run about 5-10min without any sign of air coming up. At this point, and hopefully with frequent checking of your temp gauge, everything will look good. Shut the engine off, and now put your radiator cap securely back on, and top up the overflow to the full level. Take it for a drive and you should be good to go.

Now, over the next few days keep an eye on and check your overflow tank. It is possible there may be a wee bit of air that still works it's way out, which will cause the overflow tank to slight show lower. This is normal. Just top it up as necessary.

BUT as you're doing this, if it starts to overheat, then i would seriously think something else is going on causing the overheating issue you still have, as I've yet to have one overheat when bleeding the air out. I would suggest putting in a new thermostat if it wasn't done already, as it's easy, cheap and worth the precaution. (to test yours, take it out and put it in boiling water and see if it opens) Another culprit although I've never had to deal with, is the propellers on the water pump are toast. I've only seen them though leak through the weep hole when they need to be changed to be honest. While you're bleeding the system if you see the coolant is circulating though, good chances are it is ok. When I did mine last year I could see the coolant moving. Don't let it overheat though when you're bleeding the system though, as it is a sure sign of something else is wrong. It should not overheat when doing this. Trapped air though will cause it to overheat when the system is pressurized. As long as the cap remains off, it will not pressurize the system.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 05:46 AM   #10
jimnj72
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Thanks everyone for all your information and help. I replaced the water pump last night. I refilled the cooling system and and let it run with the cap open at an incline. Almost immediately I had strong heat. At first the coolant bubbled and sucked down more coolant but then at some point it really started to boil over the cap opening quite a bit. I let it go a bit longer but it seemed like I was losing alot of coolant and I was no longer getting heat. I put the cap back on and let it run and it overheated again with no heat which seemed strange since initially I had heat. I let it cool a bit, added more coolant and let it run and it overheated once again, still with no heat. I let it sit for about 90 minutes and went back out and actually took it for a drive. It had sucked all the coolant out of the reserve tank so I refilled it before the drive. The heat came on immediately and the car ran steady at 210 once it warmed up for about 20 minutes of driving and 10 minutes of idling. Prior to this I could not idle for more than 7-8 minutes without overheating. Fingers crossed that its now good. I will check coolant and go for a longer drive when I get home from work tonight. I shut the heat off as well and temps still stayed at 210.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 08:06 AM   #11
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Hopefully all is good. I've never had any boil out, but as the air comes out, it defintely will bubble as the air is released. Sounds like there was still air that needed to come out, and it worked it's way out. Fingers crossed there's no more issues.
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