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1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - Mechanic says do several BG cleanings?

2K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  caliskier 
#1 ·
I am buying my dads very nice, garage kept 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with 110k miles, 8,000k miles on the engine, brand new tires. I will fly out to get it and drive 2400 miles home.

Note up front: I work on my Hondas myself, I know all about what fluid I put in it, and I keep my cars 250k+ miles. I know nothing about Grand Cherokees thus need you all to help keep me from paying for unnecessary service.

My dad's mechanic wants $1,100 to do several things to the Jeep before I take it to "make sure I have a safe trip home". Most of them are fluid change / BG cleaning which I have never heard of. Sounds unnecessary, but again, not a Jeep guy. I would probably do a transmission flush and differential flush when I get it home anyway, so if he wants to do his BG thing there, thinking that's ok, but what do you all say? He sold it to me as this big cleaning BG thing, what is BG? I don't mind paying for the service on the differential and transmission as I will probably do those anyway as it has 110k miles, right?

Here is the list: (In my mind 1-3 - Maybe, 4 and 5 - Yes, 7-10 no dude, that's ok) - what do you say?

1. 3 Part Total Fuel Service Kit BG 2901​
a. Perform a BG fuel system cleaning atomize BG 206 Air intake system cleaner through the engine plenum​
b. Add BG 210 fuel injector cleaner through the fuel rail, Add BG 208 44k to the fuel tank​
2. Cooling System Kit #560 #540 BG5601​
a. Add BG colling system cleaner PN540
b. Run engine 15 min and perform coolant exchange using the CT-2 service machine.
c. Add supercool PN546 to cooling system​
3. Power Steering Service​
a. Perform a BG power steering fluid exchange using BG937 power steering service machine​
4. Light Duty Differential Kit #LS2 75W-90 Synthetic BG8000​
a. Drain the Rear differential using the BG 939 driveline machine. Refill with 3 quarts of 75032 75W-90 differential oil. Add BG PN328 friction modifier
b. Drain the front differential using same as above, but add 2 quarts of 90 weight differential fluid and add BG PN328 lubricant to differential​
5. Transmission Fluid​
a. Perform a BG Transmission Fluid Exchange - Runs all transmission fluid out of the transmission and into a machine replacing with new fluid​
6. Change Engine oil and filter​
a. KSI Point Point Premier (CONOCO) 5W30
b. Add BG MOA Oil Conditioner​
7. Serpentine Belt - Replace
8. Lower and Upper Coolant Hose - Replace
9. Thermostat
10. Radiator Cap​
 
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#2 ·
Probably get better answers if you asked in the GC section. That being said thinking if I were in this situation I would fix most of what the mechanic found myself, if I though necessary after I checked it out, at his house and save some cash. Thinking Forget all the BG stuff. Throw a thing of Lucas Injector Cleaner in the gas tank maybe. Assuming this is a 4.0. Do the thermostat. Piece of cake and cheap. Radiator cap also. If I were doing the upper and lower radiator hose I would also do the heater core hoses, put in fresh anti-freeze and call it a day. Change the oil and grease the chassis. Best I can tell is that a Grand Cherokee does not have a drain plug in the tranny pan and is a real filter. Cherokee Sports have a drain plug and it is really more a screen then a filter. Only real reason to go in there on a Cherokee Sport is if the tranny pan gasket is leaking. Otherwise you just drain out what you can and replace the fluid. In a '00 Cherokee Sport it amounts to about 4 quarts. So that you will have to decide. Thinking with only 110K on the chassis I would just make sure it is at a proper level assuming there are no problems. Same with the diffs and power steering. Not sure how involved a belt is on a GC but might not be a bad idea. Plenty of info out there about these things plus how to videos. You appear to have mechanical aptitude just not familiar with Jeeps. Going to have to learn sooner or later. Might as well start now.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Thank you for the advice. I edited my response, I had to head out to church this morning and could not add more...

I will not be able to do any fluid changes before I head back. I am thinking oil for sure, maybe the transmission change, but I watched it done on youtube... there is a filter and a magnet in there and you have to pull the pan. They are not doing that, they are just hooking it up t some machine, that does not seem like the right procedure to me.

I am a honda guy like I said, I own the factory service manual, I do it right.

Your belt comment... my wife has an 02 Liberty and it was very easy to do the belt on that, but that is a V6, that took 5 min. I need to go in and find a service manual or helms or whatever and figure out what all really needs to be done, at what interval, and how to do it.

Looking for some quick advice here to help me get pointed in the right direction and save me some time, and I do appreciate yours.

My dad is in a different financial position in life so he just does what the mechanic says which may be the right thing, but I am cautious of that based on my experience with some mechanics in the past and kinda what I am seeing on youtube.

As far as where this should be posted, thanks for that!! Can a moderator move this to the GC section, did not know about that.

Thanks
 
#5 ·
This mechanic must be a BG dealer offering those services.

Only way for him to make a huge profit is by suckering people into BG products.
Do not waste your money on the BG services. It is backed by nothing.

I do not think kindly of these kinds of people whether he believes BG actually works or not. Nor have I seen BG services stacked to $1100. LMAO you are getting robbed if you choose any of those.

If you want fluid changes then change the fluid with the stuff that should be in there. Not some company that doesn't meet any API certifications.... or probably any for that matter yet there is a whole slew of companies at easy-to-find locations such as Wal-Mart, AZ, Oreillys and AAP that DO sell API and other certified fluids. Hopefully I don't have to keep on going for you to get the picture.
 
#7 ·
This mechanic must be a BG dealer offering those services.

Only way for him to make a huge profit is by suckering people into BG products.
Do not waste your money on the BG services. It is backed by nothing.

I do not think kindly of these kinds of people whether he believes BG actually works or not. Nor have I seen BG services stacked to $1100. LMAO you are getting robbed if you choose any of those.

If you want fluid changes then change the fluid with the stuff that should be in there. Not some company that doesn't meet any API certifications.... or probably any for that matter yet there is a whole slew of companies at easy-to-find locations such as Wal-Mart, AZ, Oreillys and AAP that DO sell API and other certified fluids. Hopefully I don't have to keep on going for you to get the picture.
LOL good, Not knowing what it was I was kinda holding back in my original post. I have never heard of BG, and it did seam like a big waste of money for $1100. The service manual says to pull off the pan on the transmission and replace to oil filter. Clean off the magnet and put it back together. Not flush with some cleaner. I don't put anything in my honda unless I bought it at the dealship (except oil, I use Mobil one. )
 
#9 ·
Thats all horse crap snake oil. If it's running fine why throw all chemicals at it?

I run 1 bottle of techron through my tank right before every oil change, but that's $5 for a little preventative maintenance. Techron is really great stuff, and actually works. I work on older cars and after reassembly some NOS CIS bosch injectors need a little kick in the butt spray properly. Techron works every time.
 
#12 ·
^ agree, and there's lots of rip-off shops/mechanics out there!

Curious what engine is in your 99 since you didn't mention it?

Since you're new to Jeeps/WJ's if you don't know exactly what came on it from the factory you can request a build sheet with that info.

Below is the instant build sheet link.

http://jeep.custhelp.com/app/jeep/eqlisting_detail/session/L3RpbWUvMTM5MzY0MzI4OC9zaWQvWGxOMmc2T2w%3D

The other method to get a build sheet is through the below link where you get more detail like coding for the parts. You fill out the info, enter "Request for build sheet" in the subject box, and they'll email you back your build sheet in a couple business days.

http://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/jeep/EmailPage.html?appStr=wccs&titleStr=Contact+Jeep&familyStr=brand&franchise=J&actionURL=%252Fwccs%252Fbrand_forms%252Fus%252Fwebform.jsp&promotion=null&category=U

Should we assume since you're driving 2,400 miles from Oklahoma you may be in the Eastern US? Fair warning if you're taking a non-rusted WJ into one of the salt-belt/rust states you sure better do some rust preventive measures on before next winter. We were just discussing this in the last half of the below thread. Good luck.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/guess-who-s-back-game-4029009/#post37794513
 
#14 ·
^ agree, and there's lots of rip-off shops/mechanics out there!

Curious what engine is in your 99 since you didn't mention it?
Its a 4.7L V8

Since you're new to Jeeps/WJ's if you don't know exactly what came on it from the factory you can request a build sheet with that info.

Below is the instant build sheet link.

http://jeep.custhelp.com/app/jeep/eqlisting_detail/session/L3RpbWUvMTM5MzY0MzI4OC9zaWQvWGxOMmc2T2w%3D
WOW, mind blown!

The other method to get a build sheet is through the below link where you get more detail like coding for the parts. You fill out the info, enter "Request for build sheet" in the subject box, and they'll email you back your build sheet in a couple business days.

http://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/jeep/EmailPage.html?appStr=wccs&titleStr=Contact+Jeep&familyStr=brand&franchise=J&actionURL=%252Fwccs%252Fbrand_forms%252Fus%252Fwebform.jsp&promotion=null&category=U
Thanks for that will see what they say.

Should we assume since you're driving 2,400 miles from Oklahoma you may be in the Eastern US? Fair warning if you're taking a non-rusted WJ into one of the salt-belt/rust states you sure better do some rust preventive measures on before next winter. We were just discussing this in the last half of the below thread. Good luck.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/guess-who-s-back-game-4029009/#post37794513
No issues there, Jeep is in CA, taking the long way home.
 
#15 ·
Walk away. No on second thought RUN. Skip all that BG BS and just change out the fluids with the "correct" fluids. I hate shops that push snake oil products on you. If you can't do it yourself find a better shop and make sure they use the right fluids in it. I normally buy the xfer case fluid at my local dealer but the rest can be found at any auto parts store. Check the condition of the belt and hoses yourself. Does your Dad have records of what has been done to it? It might be pretty well maintained but if that is the shop that has been doing the work I would double check everything.
 
#16 ·
If the engine has 8,000 miles and was replaced in the last 4 years, and the jeep was garage kept then the following would be true: Spark plugs, belt, radiator fluid do not need to be changed. Hoses are probably fine too. Mechanic said the hoses did not look bad but then used the long trip a reason to change them (i know). Radiator cap and thermostat don't need to be replaced either in my opinion. My dad always runs 91 Octane Chevron Teckron in it, so I don't need to mess with the fuel service. Power steering service I can do at home, he did not mention a brake flush but I can do that at home too...

That leaves air filter, trans oil, engine oil and xfer case...

I was planning on calling a couple of dealerships our there and see if they could do the transmission and transfer case (the way the manual does it.). Probably have them change the oil too. I may do it myself, but would have to buy ramps and collection kit out there.
 
#18 ·
Some good info 4xTroy! It helps to read that section on power steering fluids in that wjjeeps link caliskier.

Since Mopar doesn't make the amber MS5931 OE spec power steering fluid anymore some of the other brand names do meet this spec. While I bought the Mopar red MS9602 ATF+4 to change out my power steering fluid I'm not even going to use it. Bought the Valvoline power steering fluid instead which is amber and meets the MS5931 spec.
 
#19 ·
OK, I gotta ask... where's your Dad that's 2400 miles away from OK? I checked all 4 corners of the US (Miami, Portland, Seattle and San Diego). All are less than 2000 miles.

Not trying to be nosy... just noticed that you're right smack in the middle of it all.
 
#21 ·
that TC fluid....?

didn't see it reading thru, but there are several TC's you may have and they take different fluids. If you have the 247 it uses the high dollar Mopar fluid and nothing else. If you have the 242 it takes the ATF-4. Make sure before you fill it. Read the round red tag on the back of the TC body.
As to the transmission "Flushing", as was said before... it's BS. I had a dealer try to talk my wife into it, then he tried me... conversation was short. They didn't touch my Chrysler again...ever.

Enjoy the adventure.
DrPepper
 
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