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Unread 09-06-2013, 03:34 PM   #16
cmberges
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Here are some pics that are just random but I took them anyways...lol

1. Looks like the wiring going to the ALT is just fine. Started jeep and unhooked battery and it just keep running.
2. The IAC (or whatever) looks clean and almost brand new.
3. Plugs looked used but not like "holy crap". Still I'm replacing them all with new ones anyways. Also all the coil packs look like new.
4. Looks like the fuses are good and the rest of the little boxes and weird fuses must be ok (not sure how to check them).

I'll go get a new fuel filter tomorrow regardless and then take her out for a test drive. I'm not sure my skills are ready for the fuel pump so I hope that's not it.

On a side note, the TCM (is that the thing above the starter?) looked new also when I replaced it. It was a no brainer type job so if something was messed up with the new one it wouldn't run right?

OK anyways ill keep working and changing parts and see what happens.

Thanks to everyone for your support........







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Unread 09-06-2013, 05:20 PM   #17
StormChaserTim
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Here's my advice. You have a bad PCM.

Your car seems to be doing exactly the same as mine.
1. Dying when hot, with no apparent reason, nor any indication that it is about to die. (No stumbling, no coughing, running rough, funny idle, etc)
2. ONLY does it hot.
3. Engine gauges peg at zero.
4. No trouble codes.
5. Crank sensor replaced.

Try this out.

Let it idle in the driveway till it fails. Turn the key off, and then try to restart. No gauges, no restart? Good, that's what we want.

Begin by disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds. Hook it back up, see if it immediately restarts. If it does, let it run till it dies, making note of how long it takes it to quit. Do this every time you restart it.

Next time it dies, verify a no-start condition, and run through these sensors:
Throttle Position
IAC Motor
Camshaft sensor (careful, this one is hard to get while it is hot)
MAP sensor

With the key off, pull the connector for the sensor you are working with, and turn on the key. See if the gauges come back. Replace the connector if it does not, and move onto the next sensor. Theoretically, the sensor that you isolate, and gives you your gauges back will be the culprit. ONLY the crank, cam, throttle, MAP and IAC can short in a fashion to ground your PCM out to make it stop responding.

Once you get one that gives you your gauges back, turn the key off, plug that sensor back in, and start it and run it till it fails again. Remove that connector first to re-test.

What I think you will find is the same thing I have. The PCM is internally fried from living too close to the exhaust manifold for too long. But that should help you narrow it down good before coughing up the change for a new box.

Tim
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Unread 09-06-2013, 06:16 PM   #18
cmberges
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That is exactly, to the T, what is going on. So ill try the list out and see what happens.

Also would this be a good replacement part (PCM)? Lifetime warranty so...?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-GRAND-C...feca9c&vxp=mtr
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Unread 09-06-2013, 07:16 PM   #19
rdkendrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmberges View Post
That is exactly, to the T, what is going on. So ill try the list out and see what happens.

Also would this be a good replacement part (PCM)? Lifetime warranty so...?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-GRAND-C...feca9c&vxp=mtr
Looks like it was flashed in Feb. '01.

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Unread 09-07-2013, 02:10 AM   #20
Ah673000
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+1 on the crankshaft sensor .

Symptoms point to a sensor ..... Heat / time does them in.....

The failure you described happens on my wifes Miata .... Cam and crank sensors will fail with little warning when hot.... Then the car starts when cooled down.

I have not seen the failure much on the Jeep forum.... But extremely common on the Miata forum . Lots of threads there discribing symptoms.

Symptoms for fuel pump , fuel filter, and vacuum leaks are normally different then you are discribing. Your Jeep runs good when it runs.... Then it is like someone threw a switch and it stops running. That's electronic imo.
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Unread 09-07-2013, 03:05 AM   #21
veiri86
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Loose/dirty PCM connector can cause same symptoms, disconnect the battery, remove the coolant reservoir tank, then remove the 3 connectors to the PCM and the two above attached to the firewall, spray all pins with electronic contact cleaner, and blow out everything with compressed air. Re-attach everything in reverse order and turn the key on.

Good luck

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Unread 09-07-2013, 12:15 PM   #22
cmberges
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So now here is a no brainer for most but I gotta ask. Is the cam/crank sensor the same thing? I changed the one above the starter already but where is the other one (and is there a part number or something).

Thanks for all the help guys, you just made my weekend very busy.............LMAO
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Unread 09-07-2013, 12:23 PM   #23
KayCeeJeep
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Fighting a similar problem on my son's high mileage Sebring right now, it's definitely electrical when it quits its just like you suddenly turned the key off, right? No cough, sputter, nothing just off.
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Unread 09-07-2013, 12:26 PM   #24
99WJ01TJ
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Crank sensor is the one above the starter that you already replaced, cam sensor is under neath the passenger side head at the very front of the engine. Its kind of a PITA to get to but you can pull it off without too much cursing. make sure you unplug it first as thats the hardest part of the procedure, other than that you need a 10mm socket and a wobble attachment for the ratchet.
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Unread 09-07-2013, 01:45 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmberges View Post

Thanks for all the help guys, you just made my weekend very busy.............LMAO
Your welcome! Means we're doing our job right!

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Unread 09-07-2013, 02:36 PM   #26
cmberges
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KayCeeJeep View Post
Fighting a similar problem on my son's high mileage Sebring right now, it's definitely electrical when it quits its just like you suddenly turned the key off, right? No cough, sputter, nothing just off.
Yep just like a gremlin pulled the plug on the whole thing.
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Unread 09-08-2013, 01:59 PM   #27
cmberges
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StormChaserTim View Post
Here's my advice. You have a bad PCM.

Your car seems to be doing exactly the same as mine.
1. Dying when hot, with no apparent reason, nor any indication that it is about to die. (No stumbling, no coughing, running rough, funny idle, etc)
2. ONLY does it hot.
3. Engine gauges peg at zero.
4. No trouble codes.
5. Crank sensor replaced.

Try this out.

Let it idle in the driveway till it fails. Turn the key off, and then try to restart. No gauges, no restart? Good, that's what we want. CHECK

Begin by disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds. Hook it back up, see if it immediately restarts. If it does, let it run till it dies, making note of how long it takes it to quit. Do this every time you restart it. NO RESTART SO ON TO THE NEXT

Next time it dies, verify a no-start condition, and run through these sensors:
Throttle Position DIDN'T START
IAC Motor DIDN'T START (PUT A NEW ON ONE ALSO)
Camshaft sensor (careful, this one is hard to get while it is hot) NO WAY TO GET TO IT
MAP sensor HOLD ON TO YOUR PANTS, FINALLY FOUND THIS DAMN THING, UNPLUGGED IT AND STARTED RIGHT UP, IDLED KINDA FUNNY, UP AND DOWN BUT RAN

With the key off, pull the connector for the sensor you are working with, and turn on the key. See if the gauges come back. Replace the connector if it does not, and move onto the next sensor. Theoretically, the sensor that you isolate, and gives you your gauges back will be the culprit. ONLY the crank, cam, throttle, MAP and IAC can short in a fashion to ground your PCM out to make it stop responding.

Once you get one that gives you your gauges back, turn the key off, plug that sensor back in, and start it and run it till it fails again. Remove that connector first to re-test.

What I think you will find is the same thing I have. The PCM is internally fried from living too close to the exhaust manifold for too long. But that should help you narrow it down good before coughing up the change for a new box.

Tim
In red above is what I tried and low and behold.....
So there it is, im assuming I need a new map sensor? This thing is tucked in there pretty good, and trick/tips on removing it.

Also we it was sitting and idling it would rev up and down a few time then shortly after it just died (gas light always comes on when it dies).

I so hope it just the map sensor and at least all the others are new...LMAO
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Unread 09-08-2013, 02:10 PM   #28
cmberges
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Now apart from all the running issues I heard that gremlin under my dash today while the car was sitting there running. It was like a weird noise that was going to drive me crazy and after looking I took a little video of it be there is no way I can describe it or know what the heck it even is. Its on the driver side under the dash bolted to the center column (with the heater and crap). Listen really well and youll see what I mean.

Should it be doing that just sitting there idle? No heat/ac running.

I'm going to have a totally rebuilt jeep here soon......lool

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0Jmh...ature=youtu.be
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Unread 09-08-2013, 02:32 PM   #29
99WJ01TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmberges View Post
Now apart from all the running issues I heard that gremlin under my dash today while the car was sitting there running. It was like a weird noise that was going to drive me crazy and after looking I took a little video of it be there is no way I can describe it or know what the heck it even is. Its on the driver side under the dash bolted to the center column (with the heater and crap). Listen really well and youll see what I mean.

Should it be doing that just sitting there idle? No heat/ac running.

I'm going to have a totally rebuilt jeep here soon......lool

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0Jmh...ature=youtu.be
If its a creeking sound it may be a broken blend door isue while the ac runs its operational test. Is it when you put the key into the ignition to the run position, but before its started. My dub sounds like that too and my blend door after 14yrs has finally gone kaput.
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Unread 09-08-2013, 10:06 PM   #30
cmberges
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99WJ01TJ View Post
If its a creeking sound it may be a broken blend door isue while the ac runs its operational test. Is it when you put the key into the ignition to the run position, but before its started. My dub sounds like that too and my blend door after 14yrs has finally gone kaput.
Hmmm. So no worries then? If it runs I can live without other things...lol
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