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Unread 07-19-2014, 05:37 PM   #871
drumandfly
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2011 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Danbury Area, CT
Posts: 8
Can you participate in group buys from or in CT ? I could ride the train down to NOVA! I used to live there. If so, please PM me.. would appreciate it.

Also, how are trades on 2011 GC Overland V8 4x4 doing these days?

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Unread 07-20-2014, 03:42 PM   #872
Zcam
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Bowie, Marylans
Posts: 1
Hi,

I'm planning on getting a Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4. I'm in Maryland (DC Metro). Can you send me info on the group buy for DC? Thanks!!
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Unread 07-20-2014, 06:57 PM   #873
proberts
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Location: Fairfax, VA
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Could I get in on this deal too? Thinking about scoring a GC this week here in the NOVA area. Thanks!!
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Unread 07-20-2014, 08:00 PM   #874
Evoluvin
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Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 198
Could someone PM me the info for the Baltimore/DC group buy? Wanting to trade in our 2012 GC Laredo for a limited. Thanks
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Unread 07-20-2014, 08:05 PM   #875
kryogen
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lol car prices are a joke in the us.
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Unread 07-20-2014, 09:38 PM   #876
14summithemi
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2014 WK 
 
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Location: Bay Village, OHIO
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Drumandfly, Zcam, Proberts, Evoluvin....DC Group Buy info sent by PM...good luck
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Unread 07-21-2014, 02:37 PM   #877
shahanand87
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: berkeley heights, nj
Posts: 2
Great insight on this thread!

I am looking into buying my first car, JGC Overland. I probably wont be that good at haggling with the dealers and I see a lot of numbers from 41K to 50K on how much people paid for their Overland. I am looking to purchase the base overland edition.

Any insight on how much I should be paying OTD or before TTL. I also saw posts on DC Group Buy. I would def be willing to go down to DC to buy the car well under factory invoice. Can I get that information.

Any additional information would be great!
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Unread 07-21-2014, 03:22 PM   #878
terminator02
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Detroit, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shahanand87 View Post
Great insight on this thread!

I am looking into buying my first car, JGC Overland. I probably wont be that good at haggling with the dealers and I see a lot of numbers from 41K to 50K on how much people paid for their Overland. I am looking to purchase the base overland edition.

Any insight on how much I should be paying OTD or before TTL. I also saw posts on DC Group Buy. I would def be willing to go down to DC to buy the car well under factory invoice. Can I get that information.

Any additional information would be great!
My rules:
1. It's NOT about "what monthly payment are you looking for" because that is NOT about the selling price of the car.
2. Do NOT get emotionally attached to the purchase. Have number in mind and negotiate. Be willing to walk away.
3. negotiating is an art so don't go in the dealership with the mindset of "I won't be good at haggling." You will be just fine with negotiating a fair mutually agreeable price with someone; if not at that dealership than one down the road.
4. I personally do not go in with a ton of previous research. I go in with a price I am willing to pay and that I have seen others pay and then just go from there.
5. Spend a fair amount of time talking PRIOR to them going to have the car brought up or looking at the car. The longer YOU are there, the longer the salesman has invested in you.
6. I am very upfront with something to the effect of: "I used to be a banker, mortgage broker and small business owner and I know that you know there are a few types of customers. There are customers that come in, like a car and then buy at the MSRP with no problems and there are customers that nickle and dime every single thing and then don't go through with the purchase. I am neither. I know some make big money on MSRP sales and some make less commission but still walk away with some money and an extra car sold that day. I am that customer as I am willing to buy today but am looking for "the deal of the day."

I'm currently a therapist and use both my knowledge of sales and psychology to really work my way through my purchase process. As stated previously in this thread, I walked away with a 14 black altitude with every option but the engine block heater and single CD changer for around $37,300 including Tax, Title and License (MSRP before Tax Title and License plate is $38,585 or around $42Kish out the door). I had NO CLUE what the deals were, what invoice was or anything. I went in knowing I will walk out with a great deal because I will find all the information I know by talking with the salesman. I am not being "sold" a car, rather I am "selling" them my business and will stay in control of the transaction because it is a large investment and I am willing to walk away from something that isn't agreeable to me. When negotiating between two offers (had another dealership on the phone) I ended up going with who I was working with because they came down so far in price for me that I wasn't going to basically 'nickle and dime' to where I am not wanted back at the dealership. I received a text prior to signing for a 36,900 out the door price that I declined because that's not worth, in my book, 400 bucks amortized over my loan payment. It's bad business.

I hope this helps and good luck on your hunt for a new car..it's fun for me personally and I think if you view it similarly, you will do better!

Cheers.
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Unread 07-21-2014, 05:42 PM   #879
14summithemi
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2014 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Bay Village, OHIO
Posts: 536
Quote:
Originally Posted by shahanand87 View Post
...I am looking to purchase the base overland edition....Any insight on how much I should be paying OTD or before TTL.
'14 Overland Base 4x2 using DC Group Buy:

$43,195 MSRP (plus $995 dest)

$41,095 Invoice (plus $995 dest)
- 2,876 7.0% Group Buy Disc
+ 499 Group Buy Fee
+ 995 Destination
----------
$39,713 Net cost (plus TTL and time and travel)

Quote:
Originally Posted by shahanand87 View Post
I also saw posts on DC Group Buy. I would def be willing to go down to DC to buy the car well under factory invoice. Can I get that information....
pm sent
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Unread 07-21-2014, 07:23 PM   #880
ThirdNcountin
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2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Marietta, Georgia
Posts: 53
I posted this in the diesel section prior to the "what did...." section. Any thoughts on the below price?

I'm going to look at a 14' JGC Diesel in the morning. It has 7,000 miles on it. The dealer is asking $42,500 which seems like a decent price. Outside of driving it - what should I be looking for in terms of issues that might be lurking? I'm a rookie to the diesel world, however this would be my 4th jeep (3 wranglers prior). I'm selling my f-150 and replacing with a JGC. I loved the hemi, however this will be my first drive with the 3.0!
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Unread 07-21-2014, 08:37 PM   #881
DRKRED12
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Fern Park, Fl
Posts: 72
First thing if this is a Chrysler/Jeep Dealer see if they have any maintenance records for your Jeep's VIN number(should be in the computer whether they did the work or another Dealer). Then check your build date on the D/S door and take a copy of Recalls and TSBs which you can get from this sight. Then make sure all Recalls have been done that apply to this Jeep and then go on a nice long test drive and see if you experience any TSBs. Then have everything taken care of before you sign on the dotted line. Good luck.
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Unread 07-22-2014, 11:30 AM   #882
shahanand87
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: berkeley heights, nj
Posts: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by 14summithemi View Post
'14 Overland Base 4x2 using DC Group Buy:

$43,195 MSRP (plus $995 dest)

$41,095 Invoice (plus $995 dest)
- 2,876 7.0% Group Buy Disc
+ 499 Group Buy Fee
+ 995 Destination
----------
$39,713 Net cost (plus TTL and time and travel)



pm sent
Quote:
Originally Posted by terminator02 View Post
My rules:
1. It's NOT about "what monthly payment are you looking for" because that is NOT about the selling price of the car.
2. Do NOT get emotionally attached to the purchase. Have number in mind and negotiate. Be willing to walk away.
3. negotiating is an art so don't go in the dealership with the mindset of "I won't be good at haggling." You will be just fine with negotiating a fair mutually agreeable price with someone; if not at that dealership than one down the road.
4. I personally do not go in with a ton of previous research. I go in with a price I am willing to pay and that I have seen others pay and then just go from there.
5. Spend a fair amount of time talking PRIOR to them going to have the car brought up or looking at the car. The longer YOU are there, the longer the salesman has invested in you.
6. I am very upfront with something to the effect of: "I used to be a banker, mortgage broker and small business owner and I know that you know there are a few types of customers. There are customers that come in, like a car and then buy at the MSRP with no problems and there are customers that nickle and dime every single thing and then don't go through with the purchase. I am neither. I know some make big money on MSRP sales and some make less commission but still walk away with some money and an extra car sold that day. I am that customer as I am willing to buy today but am looking for "the deal of the day."

I'm currently a therapist and use both my knowledge of sales and psychology to really work my way through my purchase process. As stated previously in this thread, I walked away with a 14 black altitude with every option but the engine block heater and single CD changer for around $37,300 including Tax, Title and License (MSRP before Tax Title and License plate is $38,585 or around $42Kish out the door). I had NO CLUE what the deals were, what invoice was or anything. I went in knowing I will walk out with a great deal because I will find all the information I know by talking with the salesman. I am not being "sold" a car, rather I am "selling" them my business and will stay in control of the transaction because it is a large investment and I am willing to walk away from something that isn't agreeable to me. When negotiating between two offers (had another dealership on the phone) I ended up going with who I was working with because they came down so far in price for me that I wasn't going to basically 'nickle and dime' to where I am not wanted back at the dealership. I received a text prior to signing for a 36,900 out the door price that I declined because that's not worth, in my book, 400 bucks amortized over my loan payment. It's bad business.

I hope this helps and good luck on your hunt for a new car..it's fun for me personally and I think if you view it similarly, you will do better!

Cheers.
Thank you much!!!
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Unread 07-22-2014, 05:41 PM   #883
Eastbayguy
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Castro VAlley, c
Posts: 10
Truecar.com gives me 2K below invoice instantly for Grand Cherokee Overland with like
http://www.truecar.com/prices-new/je...&zipcode=94546
it's 5% below invoice, simply print it out and bring it to the dealer.
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Unread 07-22-2014, 06:17 PM   #884
14summithemi
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2014 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Bay Village, OHIO
Posts: 536
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eastbayguy View Post
Truecar.com gives me 2K below invoice instantly for Grand Cherokee Overland with like
http://www.truecar.com/prices-new/je...&zipcode=94546
it's 5% below invoice, simply print it out and bring it to the dealer.
I know you are trying to help shahanand87 out but unfortunately this won't necessarily work for him. There are several reasons. Truecar pricing is simply local/regional market based pricing, whereby, the dealers who sign up agree to sell "certain" vehicles at that price. When you replace your zip code which is apparently a nicely competitive Jeep market with his NJ zip the price goes up by $1,382. Apparently, that market is not as competitive as yours. I personally hit this problem when trying to negotiate in my semi-competitive market (Cleveland, OH) using the Truecar, Costco and USAA prices to no avail.

Just thought a clarification would be helpful.
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Unread 07-22-2014, 06:29 PM   #885
Eastbayguy
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Castro VAlley, c
Posts: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 14summithemi View Post
I know you are trying to help shahanand87 out but unfortunately this won't necessarily work for him. There are several reasons. Truecar pricing is simply local/regional market based pricing, whereby, the dealers who sign up agree to sell "certain" vehicles at that price. When you replace your zip code which is apparently a nicely competitive Jeep market with his NJ zip the price goes up by $1,382. Apparently, that market is not as competitive as yours. I personally hit this problem when trying to negotiate in my semi-competitive market (Cleveland, OH) using the Truecar, Costco and USAA prices to no avail.

Just thought a clarification would be helpful.
Yep, the car market is competitive, but 9% CA sale tax is killing any price advantage that we got!
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