Well, It has been a few weeks since I did the install. Been a crazy summer here at work, but I finally have time to put together all the pictures from the preparation, to the install. A BIG shout out to Jackal01. He was willing to provide a shady spot to do the install and several critical tools needed for the install. I of course provided the Jeep and the ice chest of Beer.
I know he enjoyed cutting up my Jeep and I look forward to helping him install his winch, roof rails, skid plate, etc, etc, etc... as his list grows...lol
There will be numerous pictures posted as I like to take a bunch. It lets me look back at a picture later that day so I know what all the parts look like and how I can brainstorm the best way to situate them under the hood.
Here are some pictures of the parts as they came in.
All of mine were shipped UPS, and RRO even 3-day'd the winch mount so I could have it in time. Those guys are awesome!
Winch Box exploded in my spare bedroom...I clocked the motor while it was in here because it was easier to do than once it was in the driveway...
Synthetic rope came with a hook woven onto it...
So I got a buddy with an air tool and cut-off wheel to get rid of it...
The RRO Mount when I picked it up from UPS
The two small t-like brackets are the light mount tabs that bolt into the roller fairlead holes...(I have not yet attached these)
There are more holes in this one than what is on the instructions...not big deal that means I don't have to re-coat the bolt holes since they are already powder coated
The facia and chrome overlay from the grill removed
(the easiest way to get the push-pins off from the side molding and fender wells is to just cut them with an exacto-knife. Save the ones from underneath as they go easily back into place unless you install the skid plate)
OEM Support Removed (Save the bolts/nuts from the splash guards and the compressor mount)
New Plate pre-install. Look around, see what Holes line up, you can wiggle it up/down and side/side to get it as close as possible.
Make Sure that your tow Hooks are right-side up when you mount the bracket. (we had to completely un wire and un install the mount to fix one of them that had spun around)
There is plenty of room around and underneath the mount for additional accessories, like onboard air that you thought you couldn't have because of the lack of clearance for you Warn 9xi.....pun intended
This gigantic annoying box was the first thing I got rid of, once I opened it up and saw that the weather resistant plug could be un-attached.
Standard 4 gauge battery cable I got from the auto parts store along with a box of heat shrink and wire looming. I cut the 3 cables at 8 feet, but 7 feet looks like it is the perfect size to go from the location next to the terminal, all the way down to the winch. I used the black ground cable that came with the winch, and one of the short red cables. The small black ground from the solenoid reached perfectly over to the negative post by routing it under the plastic wall with the other loomed cables. ( Yellow arrow in picture #8 in this post )
Trying to find a good place for the solenoid.
And test running the wires.
Negative post wiring.
Drilled holes and bolted solenoid to the indention on the plastic wall.
This piece easily comes out for you to drill and mount, out of the Jeep.
After Looming and taping all the wires together it was too big to fit under the wall in the factory wiring pass-through holes, so we cut an opening in the wall at the top. Once re-installed, the wall weather-stripping covers the top of the hole and it looks very clean.
We found a good place to run the wires behind the top of the coolant reservoir and around the bottom of it, in between the body frame where the mount bolts, away from the radiator and other heat/moving parts.
Winch bolted and test-fit wiring to get correct length. (make sure you have the mount and all its bolts in and fastened before you begin mounting the winch, if a few of the bolts are off, you will have to take it out again)
TEST TEST TEST TEST YOUR WINCH!!!!!!!! make sure it all works before you zip-tie and spray and bolt it down later on. DO NOT LEAVE IT BOLTED IN NOW. (we removed this one 3 or 4 times due to our brains being tired...this led to Lunch)
Remove the winch after testing so you can place the fascia back on and mark the holes. A dremil is perfect for this job, make sure you have a plunging bit, not just a cut wheel. The wheel works, but the bit would be easier and have less cleanup.
Another reason we had to un-mount the winch was because the clutch lever was too high on the Smitty 8k. Follow the instructions in the manual and rotate it toward the radiator. It does not hit, and it makes it perfect for releasing and engaging the clutch with an allen wrench. (no holes in your grille!!)
Grille backing re-installed to check clearances one more time.
Once you get most everything re-installed for a final time, you are going to be wandering how in the heck and I suppose to get these bolts in here????
Well, the wrench fits through the hole and with some creative tape skillz, you can hold the nuts up while you thread in the bolts.
Finished product, unless you are required to have a front license plate. The you get to remove the fairlead, and re-attach the bolts with the plate mount.
I got the one from RRO. Works fantastic. it even survives the car-wash.
I took and used a threaded D-ring to hold the end of the cable. then when you tighten down the plate, it crams everything together nice and tight.
Instead if the two ugly plastic wing nuts, I went by Hoe Depot and got some stainless allen head bolts. They are 5/16 - 18 thread, and I got them 1" long I believe, They look better and the sides of the heads are textured in case you only have a pair of pliers, you can still get them off without too much damage. ( I have mine on there incredibly tight to prevent anyone from having any ideas)
To finalize the wiring I needed a place for the Plug to go....
So I thought why not put it on the driver's side in the same place as the solenoid. There is a nice hole in the weather stripping all along the bottom of the windshield, and a convenient crease in the A-pillar strip to allow you to run the cord behind the hood hinge and out the back of the hood to wherever you need to go. (the controller on the smitty has 12 ft of cable)
Just duplicate the holes from the giant plastic controller box that you have no use for, and WHALA!
After a long hard day, you gotta take your Jeep out to be social with other Jeeps, all the while you and the guys are inside having tacos and drinking another cold Cervesa
None of the bolts in the kit from RRO are marked.
Thread Lock, Thread Lock, Thread Lock
Keep everything you take off, and bring your bucket from the shop with spare nuts and bolts from past Jeep projects. A few I had in the top of my tool box worked better than some of them in the kit. I also used one or two for the little splash guards, to hold them up.
The bolts on the hood latch spreader bars, the two vertical bars, are the same size, but have different size heads. Also, there are a couple really small lock-nuts that go on the bottom two holes for these...
The plastic from the bumper melts while cutting it and slings it in every direction so be careful and wear glasses.
If you have any additional questions, you know where to find me...
Great post(s) with great details/pictures. Especially for us mechanically declined types. So far I have not done much to my GC only had it a couple of months. Emergency lights are the in my future, just got to figure out where / what I’m going with on this Jeep.