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Unread 06-30-2013, 05:20 AM   #16
ColdCase
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The OPs V8 has the chrysler mulitspeed transmission that been around since 1999 or so.

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Unread 06-30-2013, 09:16 PM   #17
rudeney
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So the MY2011 V8 used a different 5-speed transmission from our MY2011 V6? I can tell you for certain that our MY2011 V6 has the MBZ-built 722.6 5-speed.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 10:38 PM   #18
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Up until 2014 the v6 used the mb trans. The 4.7 v8 and 5.7 v8 use the 545rfe. The srt8 uses the mb trans.

Pre 2005 i believe you could get the 545rfe with the v6.
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Unread 07-02-2013, 08:52 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by modernblueWK View Post
You are also the guy who would change his oil everyday if the evic told you to do so.

Every 1500 miles?? Why?? Flush every 15,000 why? How does the fluid look after such a short interval?
No evic or oil change light,don't need it as I can count.Just remember my Jeep only sees about 1500 miles in 6 months of use.If you look at your OCI's you also are not supposed to go beyond 6 months regardless of miles on your oil changes also.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 02:15 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjkj2002 View Post
No evic or oil change light,don't need it as I can count.Just remember my Jeep only sees about 1500 miles in 6 months of use.If you look at your OCI's you also are not supposed to go beyond 6 months regardless of miles on your oil changes also.
You must have forgotten about the thread where you said the computer knows all and you should change the oil when it says to regardless of miles.

If you only get to 1500 miles in 6 months then great, change it. Im in the same boat. Start backing up your short mileage intervals with realistic or required time intervals and what you say starts to make sense.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 05:47 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by modernblueWK View Post
You must have forgotten about the thread where you said the computer knows all and you should change the oil when it says to regardless of miles.

If you only get to 1500 miles in 6 months then great, change it. Im in the same boat. Start backing up your short mileage intervals with realistic or required time intervals and what you say starts to make sense.
If you have that system it also accounts for time,why some will go off and say change ther oil at 500 miles but it's due to time.Look in your manual,it states the time interval right in there.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 09:23 AM   #22
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Not getting into this discussion again about the oil change reminder with you.
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Unread 07-31-2013, 07:58 PM   #23
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Dealership told my wife she needed a tranny service at 32k today. We will wait to 64k because I dislike this tranny so much if it fell out the bottom of the jeep I might literally be happy lol
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Unread 09-05-2013, 12:36 PM   #24
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Is the tread back on transmission or still on a 02 liberty oil change?

Read the back of the Mopar ATF+4 bottle, I think it says something about "life fluid". If anyone has one handy what does it say?
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Unread 09-05-2013, 12:58 PM   #25
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The only thing I will add is while the fluid might be a lifetime fluid, as many synthetic fluids are, and not break down at 32K/64K/100K miles, what concerns me is how dirty the fluid is. It will only be able to hold a certian amount of particles/contaminants/debris.

From my limited experience this is where the problems arise. When people extend their fluid change interval to the max and then have the "transmission flush" performed, I've seen some transmissions fail not long after as this "flush" usually breaks loose any particles/contaminants/debris build up and then gets pushed through the transmission clutch packs or lines and clogs the lines causing the transmission to fail. While it does not always happened, I've seen this before. Just my $.02
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Unread 09-05-2013, 01:20 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volvite
The only thing I will add is while the fluid might be a lifetime fluid, as many synthetic fluids are, and not break down at 32K/64K/100K miles, what concerns me is how dirty the fluid is. It will only be able to hold a certian amount of particles/contaminants/debris.

From my limited experience this is where the problems arise. When people extend their fluid change interval to the max and then have the "transmission flush" performed, I've seen some transmissions fail not long after as this "flush" usually breaks loose any particles/contaminants/debris build up and then gets pushed through the transmission clutch packs or lines and clogs the lines causing the transmission to fail. While it does not always happened, I've seen this before. Just my $.02
FYI, this is why there is a TSB saying do not flush. Drop the pan and change the filters, nothing more.
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Unread 09-05-2013, 01:28 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by 10Xk View Post
FYI, this is why there is a TSB saying do not flush. Drop the pan and change the filters, nothing more.
Thanks for the heads up. I'm not following the TSBs at the current time, but I know from my old 1999 4.7L WJ not to do transmission flushes. Just drop the pan and change the filter and replace the fluid. If you wanted to change the fluid from the converter, then the best way without doing a flush was to disconnect the transmission cooler lines and have them sit in a bucket of new fluid and an empty bucket for the old fluid. Cost more, but actually changed out more fluid then just the pan drop.
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Unread 09-07-2013, 08:03 AM   #28
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I have a mechanic friend who is retiring this year after 30+ years. He was servicing the transmission of my Ford last week (PM per the manual). Just dropping the pan and replacing the filter and 4 quarts or so that came out.

I asked him about not changing the fluid on a high-mileage transmission that has never had it changed. He said, "That is the rule of thumb."

I asked him if he ever personally saw a transmission fail from that? He said, "No. Well, one, but that transmission already had problems."

He said he used to work at a Firestone and they did flushes every day. Except for that one car they never saw any issues.

So basically we came to agreement that if your transmission is running fine a flush won't hurt it. If your transmission is having problems a flush could help or it could kill it. Maybe start with dropping the pan and taking a look at the magnet. If it is covered in metal shavings (more than normal) probably best just to change the 4 quarts or so and ride it out and start saving for a rebuild/replace. If it looks ok then maybe try a flush later.

Just watched Wheeler Dealers where Ed serviced the transmission of a Porsche Cayman S with high miles because it wouldn't shift and it solved its problems. Just by dropping the pan and replacing 4 quarts and the filter.

I bought a used WK with 87k miles. Flushed it at a dealer with 95k miles. No problems whatsoever now at 104k.

Honestly, for the price, I'd just do a flush and get all new fluid. I have no idea what those filters filter. They don't look like they do much of anything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by volvite View Post
From my limited experience this is where the problems arise. When people extend their fluid change interval to the max and then have the "transmission flush" performed, I've seen some transmissions fail not long after as this "flush" usually breaks loose any particles/contaminants/debris build up and then gets pushed through the transmission clutch packs or lines and clogs the lines causing the transmission to fail. While it does not always happened, I've seen this before. Just my $.02
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