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-   -   Skids on 2012 Grand Cherokee Overland - Pics (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f309/skids-2012-grand-cherokee-overland-pics-1280910/)

wxchaser 10-24-2011 03:07 PM

Skids on 2012 Grand Cherokee Overland - Pics
 
5 Attachment(s)
Below are pics of the skid plates installed on my 2012 GC Overland:

rockspyder 10-25-2011 03:08 PM

Are these different than the regular Off-Road plates?

wxchaser 10-25-2011 03:17 PM

Nope not that I'm aware of, just wanted to show what the skids looked like installed, especially the fuel tank ones that are a little more difficult to install.

rockspyder 10-25-2011 05:58 PM

So are these ones that you installed yourself?

We are (I think) about to purchase a 2012 Laredo that has the All Weather package. I'm thinking of trying to get/install the skid plates myself.

peckmv 10-26-2011 04:36 AM

Just courious. Do you have to remove the skid plates to change the oil?

rockspyder 10-26-2011 04:42 AM

Looks to me that is the oil drin plug through that oval hole in the first picture. But, I could be wrong.

wxchaser 10-26-2011 04:48 AM

That is the oil drain plug in the first pic and no need to remove the skid plate to change oil. They are on to stay.

JGCCAYENNE 10-26-2011 08:38 AM

What is the approximate weight of all the skid plates?

Thanks for the pictures.

wxchaser 10-26-2011 06:38 PM

They are heavy gauge steel but no idea as to overall weight. You have the front transfer case, front axle skid plate, and the fuel tank skid plates.

peckmv 10-26-2011 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wxchaser (Post 12387006)
That is the oil drain plug in the first pic and no need to remove the skid plate to change oil. They are on to stay.

What about the oil filter. Is that accessable with the plates on or is that removed from the top? Thanks in advance.

wxchaser 10-26-2011 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peckmv (Post 12391757)
What about the oil filter. Is that accessable with the plates on or is that removed from the top? Thanks in advance.

From the top, you just take the plastic engine cover off, then remove the cap off the oil canister. Remove the element, using a paper shop towel to avoid a mess, replace with new element and O ring & you are good to go. Drain the oil like you would on any car, with a drain plug.

Canister-free oil filter element prevents landfill, allows incineration; also eases DIY oil changes and prevents ham-fisted oil change places from "holing" or over-tightening the filter.

From the Pentastar engines overview http://www.pentastars.com/engines/tech.php:

"The advanced oil filter system eliminates oil spills, thanks to an incinerable filter element instead of the typical spin-on filters; the filter is conveniently located on top of the engine.
A chain-driven, vane-type variable displacement oil pump adjusts the flow rate and pressure as commanded by the engine management system, which uses a solenoid to drive the pump into low or high pressure mode. For example, below 3,500 rpm, the pump conserves energy by using low pressure; at speeds over 3,500 rpm, the pump switches to high pressure.
A force balance mechanism inside the oil pump adjusts the size of the pumping chambers to alter oil flow. If the oil is cold, the pump reduces the size of the internal chambers. When the oil is hot and thinner, more oil is needed, and a spring increases the size of the pump chambers. This also saves energy.
The pump is driven at a 1:1 drive ratio; its location under the block is more efficient than an on-crankshaft location. An internal, mechanical ball-and-spring relief valve dumps oil into the sump when needed, for conditions such as a cold start with high engine speed. Both pump and pressure regulation solenoid are non-serviceable.
The engine takes six quarts of oil with a filter change. Traditional, non-synthetic motor oil with an ILSAC standard of GF5 is recommended. The standard change interval, with this oil, is 8,000 miles under normal driving conditions. The oil pick-up tube is supported at the windage tray. Three oil gallery plugs are in the engine block; oil pressure an be monitored with a scan tool. Oil pressure and temperature sensors are on the oil filter housing assembly, which is mounted on top, between the heads; the oil cooler (a plate-style coolant to oil heat exchanger) is mounted to the oil filter housing as well. With Wrangler, specific upper and lower oil pan requirements have been engineered into the engine to provide increased grade requirements, keeping the oil within reach of the pump when the vehicle operates at steep angles".

peckmv 10-27-2011 03:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wxchaser (Post 12392535)
From the top, you just take the plastic engine cover off, then remove the cap off the oil canister. Remove the element, using a paper shop towel to avoid a mess, replace with new element and O ring & you are good to go. Drain the oil like you would on any car, with a drain plug.

Canister-free oil filter element prevents landfill, allows incineration; also eases DIY oil changes and prevents ham-fisted oil change places from "holing" or over-tightening the filter.

From the Pentastar engines overview http://www.pentastars.com/engines/tech.php:

"The advanced oil filter system eliminates oil spills, thanks to an incinerable filter element instead of the typical spin-on filters; the filter is conveniently located on top of the engine.
A chain-driven, vane-type variable displacement oil pump adjusts the flow rate and pressure as commanded by the engine management system, which uses a solenoid to drive the pump into low or high pressure mode. For example, below 3,500 rpm, the pump conserves energy by using low pressure; at speeds over 3,500 rpm, the pump switches to high pressure.
A force balance mechanism inside the oil pump adjusts the size of the pumping chambers to alter oil flow. If the oil is cold, the pump reduces the size of the internal chambers. When the oil is hot and thinner, more oil is needed, and a spring increases the size of the pump chambers. This also saves energy.
The pump is driven at a 1:1 drive ratio; its location under the block is more efficient than an on-crankshaft location. An internal, mechanical ball-and-spring relief valve dumps oil into the sump when needed, for conditions such as a cold start with high engine speed. Both pump and pressure regulation solenoid are non-serviceable.
The engine takes six quarts of oil with a filter change. Traditional, non-synthetic motor oil with an ILSAC standard of GF5 is recommended. The standard change interval, with this oil, is 8,000 miles under normal driving conditions. The oil pick-up tube is supported at the windage tray. Three oil gallery plugs are in the engine block; oil pressure an be monitored with a scan tool. Oil pressure and temperature sensors are on the oil filter housing assembly, which is mounted on top, between the heads; the oil cooler (a plate-style coolant to oil heat exchanger) is mounted to the oil filter housing as well. With Wrangler, specific upper and lower oil pan requirements have been engineered into the engine to provide increased grade requirements, keeping the oil within reach of the pump when the vehicle operates at steep angles".

I have the 5.7 hemi. Is it the same as the V6?

wxchaser 10-27-2011 05:00 AM

I have the 5.7 hemi. Is it the same as the V6?

This should answer your question, and includes some images:

http://wk2jeeps.com/5.7L_6.1L_oil_change.htm

Terminator2 10-27-2011 07:10 AM

5.7 holds 7 quarts not 6.

rockspyder 10-27-2011 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wxchaser (Post 12392535)
From the Pentastar engines overview http://www.pentastars.com/engines/tech.php:

".... With Wrangler, specific upper and lower oil pan requirements have been engineered into the engine to provide increased grade requirements, keeping the oil within reach of the pump when the vehicle operates at steep angles".

Hmmmm.... not sure I like what the implies about the Grand Cherokee. I mean, yeah, sure, the Wrangler is and likely will always be more of an off-road, rock-crawling machine. But what does this say about the capability of the Grand Cherokee? Admittedly, there is probably 0.001% chance I'm going to end up getting it to a "steep angle," but I would be interested to know what is considered "steep."

Guess I need to go check out that page in detail...

Also, one other thing. "Traditional, non-synthetic motor oil with an ILSAC standard of GF5 is recommended." Anyone know of synthetics being discouraged?

I guess if I could be patient enough to wait until we get ours, all would be explained...


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