Quick Question (or two) on MOPAR oil - JeepForum.com

 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 8 Old 06-20-2013, 06:41 AM Thread Starter
glenos
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Boston
Posts: 7
Quick Question (or two) on MOPAR oil

Hi all - I am new to this forum...I recently purchased a '13 Overland with HEMI and have about 2,800 miles on it now. I have been periodically checking the oil level as the manual says it may burn some oil in the first few thousand miles until the pistons set properly.

It looks like I need to add a bit now and so I have two questions:

1. Is the MOPAR oil they put in it synthetic? If not, I assume is is not advisable to mix conventional oil with synthetic?

2. Am I better off at this point just changing the oil and filter altogether and getting synthetic in there?

So, sorry in advance I know these are basic questions.

Thanks!
-Greg

glenos is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 Old 06-20-2013, 06:49 AM
loveracing1988
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 920
No the mopar oil is not synthetic. I believe it is 100% conventional, but don't quote me on that.
As for your other question, I have always lived by waiting until 10,000 miles before the switch to synthetic to make sure everything is broken in. Once you switch to synthetic engine wear pretty much stops, not completely but slows down considerably. I want to make 100% sure my engine is broken in, so 10k of wear doesn't bother me. I know other people are going to say that is B.S. but it is what I have been taught it all of my classes all though school and in life. I know the Cadillac's were having problems burning oil in their 3.6 v6's because the piston rings weren't wearing in and sealing because they are factory filled with mobil one. My buddy worked at a Cadillac GMC dealer and they would rebuild them and put conventional oil in to make sure the engine got broken in, instead of repeating the process with mobil one.
loveracing1988 is offline  
post #3 of 8 Old 06-20-2013, 07:17 AM
Dave2002ti
Web Wheeler
2012 WK 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Clifton
Posts: 1,370
Synthetic vs Dino

There are a number of auto makers are using synthetics in their high buck, high reving new engines w/o a problem ie Porsche, Mercedes and BMW w/o any issues such as rings not sealing etc. If rings didnt seal in a Caddy V6 it wasnt because of Mobil 1. Blame the rings or the machining. Or maybe the UAW!

I have rebuilt several engines and used synthetics w/o any issues to include air cooled race 911 engines and E30M3 S14 9000rpm+ red line. Never had any wear issues or rings not seating.

If you have noticed I dont think anyone requires a that you change the oil at around 1000 miles like back in the good old days.

Using dino oil for break in has gone the way of the pay phone.
Dave2002ti is offline  
post #4 of 8 Old 06-20-2013, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
glenos
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Boston
Posts: 7
Thank you both for responding. I really appreciate it. So I will probably just add a bit of conventional 5w20 and wait another few thousand miles to let the engine break in properly before changing over. Dave - your last point was actually part of my second question. I wasn't sure if I really need to swap the oil out to get out any metal shavings etc. as that's what my dad does still (even though the GMC dealer tells him he's an idiot) because he's old school.

Thanks again guys.
-Greg
glenos is offline  
post #5 of 8 Old 06-20-2013, 04:56 PM
Butterjeep
Registered User
2015 WK 
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Edgewater
Posts: 518
A few decades ago, changing the oil after the first thousand miles or so was good practice. But in this day and age, manufacturing processes have become so much better that the initial "break in" oil change is no longer necessary. Will it hurt anything if you do it? No, but it's not necessary and therefore, a waste of your time and money. I say wait for the proper interval, get an oil change with conventional, then at your 2nd oil change, if you would like, switch over to synthetic.

As for me, I'll just run conventional in mine. Just a preference for me, nothing against synthetic, but conventional oils are pretty darn good.

2014 Mustang GT Track Pack
2015 WK2 Limited 4x4
Butterjeep is offline  
post #6 of 8 Old 06-20-2013, 10:46 PM
chuckerants
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: surprise
Posts: 33
Check out Bob Is The Oil Guy - BITOG.Com.

Quote:
Originally Posted by glenos View Post
Hi all - I am new to this forum...I recently purchased a '13 Overland with HEMI and have about 2,800 miles on it now. I have been periodically checking the oil level as the manual says it may burn some oil in the first few thousand miles until the pistons set properly.

It looks like I need to add a bit now and so I have two questions:

1. Is the MOPAR oil they put in it synthetic? If not, I assume is is not advisable to mix conventional oil with synthetic?

2. Am I better off at this point just changing the oil and filter altogether and getting synthetic in there?

So, sorry in advance I know these are basic questions.

Thanks!
-Greg
chuckerants is offline  
post #7 of 8 Old 06-20-2013, 10:53 PM
chuckerants
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: surprise
Posts: 33
You should check out BITOG as well. Maybe you'll learn something before you give people advice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by loveracing1988 View Post
No the mopar oil is not synthetic. I believe it is 100% conventional, but don't quote me on that.
As for your other question, I have always lived by waiting until 10,000 miles before the switch to synthetic to make sure everything is broken in. Once you switch to synthetic engine wear pretty much stops, not completely but slows down considerably. I want to make 100% sure my engine is broken in, so 10k of wear doesn't bother me. I know other people are going to say that is B.S. but it is what I have been taught it all of my classes all though school and in life. I know the Cadillac's were having problems burning oil in their 3.6 v6's because the piston rings weren't wearing in and sealing because they are factory filled with mobil one. My buddy worked at a Cadillac GMC dealer and they would rebuild them and put conventional oil in to make sure the engine got broken in, instead of repeating the process with mobil one.
chuckerants is offline  
post #8 of 8 Old 06-20-2013, 11:46 PM
loveracing1988
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 920
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckerants View Post
You should check out BITOG as well. Maybe you'll learn something before you give people advice.
Ok, I will go check out a website where everything is verified to be true because it is on the Internet before I believe the factory training and school training I have, thank you for pointing me in the right direction.
loveracing1988 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome