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Unread 06-20-2013, 07:41 AM   #1
glenos
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Boston, MA
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Quick Question (or two) on MOPAR oil

Hi all - I am new to this forum...I recently purchased a '13 Overland with HEMI and have about 2,800 miles on it now. I have been periodically checking the oil level as the manual says it may burn some oil in the first few thousand miles until the pistons set properly.

It looks like I need to add a bit now and so I have two questions:

1. Is the MOPAR oil they put in it synthetic? If not, I assume is is not advisable to mix conventional oil with synthetic?

2. Am I better off at this point just changing the oil and filter altogether and getting synthetic in there?

So, sorry in advance I know these are basic questions.

Thanks!
-Greg

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Unread 06-20-2013, 07:49 AM   #2
loveracing1988
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No the mopar oil is not synthetic. I believe it is 100% conventional, but don't quote me on that.
As for your other question, I have always lived by waiting until 10,000 miles before the switch to synthetic to make sure everything is broken in. Once you switch to synthetic engine wear pretty much stops, not completely but slows down considerably. I want to make 100% sure my engine is broken in, so 10k of wear doesn't bother me. I know other people are going to say that is B.S. but it is what I have been taught it all of my classes all though school and in life. I know the Cadillac's were having problems burning oil in their 3.6 v6's because the piston rings weren't wearing in and sealing because they are factory filled with mobil one. My buddy worked at a Cadillac GMC dealer and they would rebuild them and put conventional oil in to make sure the engine got broken in, instead of repeating the process with mobil one.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 08:17 AM   #3
Dave2002ti
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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Synthetic vs Dino

There are a number of auto makers are using synthetics in their high buck, high reving new engines w/o a problem ie Porsche, Mercedes and BMW w/o any issues such as rings not sealing etc. If rings didnt seal in a Caddy V6 it wasnt because of Mobil 1. Blame the rings or the machining. Or maybe the UAW!

I have rebuilt several engines and used synthetics w/o any issues to include air cooled race 911 engines and E30M3 S14 9000rpm+ red line. Never had any wear issues or rings not seating.

If you have noticed I dont think anyone requires a that you change the oil at around 1000 miles like back in the good old days.

Using dino oil for break in has gone the way of the pay phone.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 09:02 AM   #4
glenos
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Thank you both for responding. I really appreciate it. So I will probably just add a bit of conventional 5w20 and wait another few thousand miles to let the engine break in properly before changing over. Dave - your last point was actually part of my second question. I wasn't sure if I really need to swap the oil out to get out any metal shavings etc. as that's what my dad does still (even though the GMC dealer tells him he's an idiot) because he's old school.

Thanks again guys.
-Greg
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Unread 06-20-2013, 05:56 PM   #5
Butterjeep
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A few decades ago, changing the oil after the first thousand miles or so was good practice. But in this day and age, manufacturing processes have become so much better that the initial "break in" oil change is no longer necessary. Will it hurt anything if you do it? No, but it's not necessary and therefore, a waste of your time and money. I say wait for the proper interval, get an oil change with conventional, then at your 2nd oil change, if you would like, switch over to synthetic.

As for me, I'll just run conventional in mine. Just a preference for me, nothing against synthetic, but conventional oils are pretty darn good.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 11:46 PM   #6
chuckerants
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Check out Bob Is The Oil Guy - BITOG.Com.

Quote:
Originally Posted by glenos View Post
Hi all - I am new to this forum...I recently purchased a '13 Overland with HEMI and have about 2,800 miles on it now. I have been periodically checking the oil level as the manual says it may burn some oil in the first few thousand miles until the pistons set properly.

It looks like I need to add a bit now and so I have two questions:

1. Is the MOPAR oil they put in it synthetic? If not, I assume is is not advisable to mix conventional oil with synthetic?

2. Am I better off at this point just changing the oil and filter altogether and getting synthetic in there?

So, sorry in advance I know these are basic questions.

Thanks!
-Greg
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Unread 06-20-2013, 11:53 PM   #7
chuckerants
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You should check out BITOG as well. Maybe you'll learn something before you give people advice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by loveracing1988 View Post
No the mopar oil is not synthetic. I believe it is 100% conventional, but don't quote me on that.
As for your other question, I have always lived by waiting until 10,000 miles before the switch to synthetic to make sure everything is broken in. Once you switch to synthetic engine wear pretty much stops, not completely but slows down considerably. I want to make 100% sure my engine is broken in, so 10k of wear doesn't bother me. I know other people are going to say that is B.S. but it is what I have been taught it all of my classes all though school and in life. I know the Cadillac's were having problems burning oil in their 3.6 v6's because the piston rings weren't wearing in and sealing because they are factory filled with mobil one. My buddy worked at a Cadillac GMC dealer and they would rebuild them and put conventional oil in to make sure the engine got broken in, instead of repeating the process with mobil one.
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Unread 06-21-2013, 12:46 AM   #8
loveracing1988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckerants View Post
You should check out BITOG as well. Maybe you'll learn something before you give people advice.
Ok, I will go check out a website where everything is verified to be true because it is on the Internet before I believe the factory training and school training I have, thank you for pointing me in the right direction.
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