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Unread 01-10-2014, 10:03 AM   #31
2kg4u
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I realize I am opening myself up to all the experts telling me how stupid I am, but my understanding is you don't need a scan tool to bleed ABS systems so long as you don't let the MC go dry and introduce air into the system. On my GM's, I would bleed the system, take the car out for a few ABS-assisted stops to get the fluid out of the ABS system, then bleed it some more.

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Unread 01-10-2014, 10:16 AM   #32
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Unread 01-10-2014, 05:43 PM   #33
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I always appreciate a know it all - be it an 18 year old, or a 40 year old
amen Alro
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Unread 01-11-2014, 03:49 PM   #34
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[quote=Dave2002ti;19255474]
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BTW with brake fluid more or most expensive isnt always better. Ate Gold or Ble, Castrol LMA or whatever they call it now and Ford Heavy Duty are all good brake fluids. Some ultra expensive non silicon brake fluids are for racing only since they attract water like flies attract dog poop.
Is there a better brake fluid than Castrol SRF fluid?

It lasts for a full season in a race car. The wet boiling point is higher than about any fluid. Oh, and it's about the most expensive, too.
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Unread 01-11-2014, 05:15 PM   #35
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[quote=falcon2014;19324986]
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Is there a better brake fluid than Castrol SRF fluid?

It lasts for a full season in a race car. The wet boiling point is higher than about any fluid. Oh, and it's about the most expensive, too.
No Castrol SRF is about as good as it gets, but there are some other fluids that are almost as good, at a significant discount from SRF pricing.

http://ctbrakes.com/brake-fluid.asp
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Unread 01-11-2014, 06:18 PM   #36
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Problem is

[quote=Raptor;19327274]
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Originally Posted by falcon2014 View Post

No Castrol SRF is about as good as it gets, but there are some other fluids that are almost as good, at a significant discount from SRF pricing.

http://ctbrakes.com/brake-fluid.asp
Many racing brake fluids really attract water and you dont want to leave them in the car for a year. Very few race teams will leave brake fluid in car or truck for a whole year. I always flushed brake fluid before every race weekend started and changed the fluid on my track day car before every track weekend.

No reason to run a racing brake fluid in a street car.
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Unread 01-11-2014, 06:34 PM   #37
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[quote=Dave2002ti;19329122]
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Many racing brake fluids really attract water and you dont want to leave them in the car for a year.
Are you sure about that? Why does racing brake fluid attract moisture more than regular fluid?

Which ones in particular attract the water more than regular fluid?
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Very few race teams will leave brake fluid in car or truck for a whole year. I always flushed brake fluid before every race weekend started and changed the fluid on my track day car before every track weekend.
Many of the racers I know, including me, bleed the brakes frequently just to make sure there's no air in the system if we used hi temp fluid, so the fluid is never in there very long. But I do know many who use Castrol SRF who never bleed their brakes during the year and never have a problem. That's the advantage of the high $ fluid.

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No reason to run a racing brake fluid in a street car.
Other than cost, why not?

Have you noticed the boiling temps of "race" brake fluid compared to Autozone or like regular fluids?

Seems to me that would be the criteria.
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Unread 01-11-2014, 07:38 PM   #38
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But

[QUOTE=falcon2014;19329754][quote=Dave2002ti;19329122]

Are you sure about that? Why does racing brake fluid attract moisture more than regular fluid?

Which ones in particular attract the water more than regular fluid?


Many of the racers I know, including me, bleed the brakes frequently just to make sure there's no air in the system if we used hi temp fluid, so the fluid is never in there very long. But I do know many who use Castrol SRF who never bleed their brakes during the year and never have a problem. That's the advantage of the high $ fluid.


You can get close with ATE Gold etc.

Been way to many years but there is a difference in what they use for a racing brake fluid compared to a high performance fluid as a result the racing fluid attracts more water molecules a lot quicker.

With a street car set up for the track days found it difficult to boil the brake fluid with ATE Blue and Gold even with rotors glowing at the end of the straight down into turn 1 at Summit Point.

SRF is not supposed to absorb water as quickly. Hard to justify SRF when you are going to need approx 2l for the initial flush and replace and $150. SRF I believe contains silicon esters.
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Unread 01-27-2014, 10:30 AM   #39
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Ok update if anyone cares, got the jeep into the dealer today and they say it's the booster. 560.00 bucks installed but they don't have one in stock. I told them to order it but I'll be picking the jeep up until lot comes in. Meanwhile I'm gonna price shop cause I don't think I should try and handle that job myself
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Unread 01-27-2014, 10:33 AM   #40
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Thanks for the update.
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Unread 01-28-2014, 06:51 AM   #41
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Service department wrote it up as "low assist". We are still driving it until part comes in. I don't understand how 90% of the time it's fine and only acts up occasionally
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Unread 01-28-2014, 05:58 PM   #42
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I've heard recently of a number of booster failures, seems to be a large backorder for replacements. Seems the cold weather has caused many boosters to act up intermittently.
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Unread 02-06-2014, 10:19 AM   #43
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I have same issue with my 2011 overland. Just dropped it at jeep place. Could hardly stop today. Live in Boston. Well see what they say
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Unread 02-09-2014, 01:09 PM   #44
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3 weeks now and no word. the more I read the more boosters seem to be backordered
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Unread 02-10-2014, 07:06 PM   #45
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Moisture in the booster freezes. Plugs up air passages inside the thing.

Silicone brake fluid will entrain air.
Why you have to bleed all the time.
Ok for raceing.
DOT 4 more than good enough for any street car.
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