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Unread 05-10-2014, 09:19 AM   #31
WKdeuce
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Just went through hell to get this little gear out of the driver's side. It's not the external gear that's the problem, it's the actuator itself all stripped out internally. Don't make the mistake I did, buy #3, not #4.



Thanks for the documentation juvi925

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepCares View Post
Note #4 on the parts illustration I have. 4 - GEAR,Actuator
It's not #4, it's #3 that's the faulty Chrysler piece of ****.

Also, F those torx head screws. I was unable to re-install them. Used a combo 1/4" drive/phillips head (old XJ cherokee dashboard screws if you're familiar) they were much easier to get in there, since I could just pop the 1/4" driver on them. I have some more pics I'll upload in a little bit (or monday when I'm getting paid to waste time on jeepforum)

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Unread 05-12-2014, 11:12 AM   #32
WKdeuce
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Here's some pictures of what you'd be up against if you're going to try this.
This all comes out so that you can remove enough plastic to see it.
Most everything is 7mm.
Under the steering wheel is a metal plate, I removed it and the right side bracket (not show) which are 8mm bolts.



My tool.
I used a T20, and a 1/4" ratchet wrench, with a little wax melted in there to hold the bit in place.



If you do this with the motor hot, the 2 coolant lines will be about 200°, so you'll have that fun to work with too.
With no point of reference, this could be anywhere... it's just in front where your right knee is when driving, forward though, above the gas pedal. For me, the driver side was getting no AC, the passenger side was blowing ice cubes.

Also, there's another duct that clips onto this square outlet, I popped it off too.



The only thing difficult about this, is reinstalling the screws that hold the actuator in there. The rest is just a little bit time consuming.

Here you can see it removed, those posts go through the actuator and receive the screws.

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Unread 05-27-2014, 08:37 PM   #33
bdotyjr
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I am so glad I found this thread. I have a 2011 Durango with the same passenger's side temperature control issue. The dealer said it was most likely a full dash pull repair ($1100-1300), but when I pulled the silencer panel I found a piece of the suspect gear. I'm 99% sure the gear is my issue as well, but I could not for the life of me figure out how to pull the glove box off. I'd be willing to pay the dealership to repair it if they agreed it was a simple (1-2 hour) repair, but they seem anxious to pull the entire dash out to fix it. Now armed with this information, maybe I can get them to agree that it's an easier fix than first estimated. Thanks for the info!!!
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Unread 05-29-2014, 03:21 PM   #34
elarm1
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Woah you sure did take a lot of parts off! Glove box and plastic behind glove box came off for me and that's it. My A/C went out on the passenger side. Figured it was a blend door and just ordered an actuator just to find out it was fine. It was the plastic gear behind the actuator. The dealer had the gear for 3.29 and the actuator was bought from Rock auto for 18 bucks. In the mean time while everything was on its way, a piece of cardboard kept the door closed so my a/c would still be frigid!!!
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Unread 05-30-2014, 09:37 PM   #35
bdotyjr
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I picked an actuator gear up from my dealer for $2 and tore into it tonight. It took me about two hours start to finish, including the time it took me to take the actuator apart so I could rotate the output shaft about 90 degrees and get the gear to line up with the blend door gear. From the looks of it, the actuator had over-rotated when the gear originally fell apart. The gears are keyed where they mesh, as are the internal gear splines, so it became easy to see what I needed to do before I put the actuator back on. I know from experience if you try to rotate a shaft with plastic gear reduction that it usually does not end well, and taking the actuator apart was actually a fairly simple task. Once the actuator was installed I fired it up to check, and verified the passenger's side was now able to go hot and cold on command. Success!

Thanks for all who have contributed to this thread. You saved me big time from taking it to the dealership, and momma is now cool and happy! ;-)
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Unread 05-31-2014, 01:55 AM   #36
Ah673000
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This is amazing to me that after 15 years , Jeeps are still having " blend door failures " .

The WJs were legionary for blend door failures ( 1999-2004) . A engineer in Texas designed sold a repair kit that did not require the $1300 dealer fix . Mopar finally adopted the repair and put out a compatible kit . Now I see the WK2 has blend door problems also . Two decades to cure a problem..... Amazing!

Sure hope they have cured the dreaded window regulator issues.

Thanks for the heads up and DIY info.... I will be prepared ..... Not a question of of but when .
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Unread 07-07-2014, 09:35 AM   #37
ddw1668
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[QUOTE=bdotyjr;23300545]I picked an actuator gear up from my dealer for $2 and tore into it tonight. It took me about two hours start to finish, including the time it took me to take the actuator apart so I could rotate the output shaft about 90 degrees and get the gear to line up with the blend door gear. From the looks of it, the actuator had over-rotated when the gear originally fell apart. The gears are keyed where they mesh, as are the internal gear splines, so it became easy to see what I needed to do before I put the actuator back on. I know from experience if you try to rotate a shaft with plastic gear reduction that it usually does not end well, and taking the actuator apart was actually a fairly simple task. Once the actuator was installed I fired it up to check, and verified the passenger's side was now able to go hot and cold on command. Success! (Quote)



I don't see where the gears are keyed to prevent over rotation.......What am I missing?
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Unread 07-08-2014, 04:39 PM   #38
bluegrassguitar
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Thought I had the infamous blend door issue, too, but turned out to be a clogged filter (23000 miles, go figure) and slightly low refrigerant level. The thing will freeze ice cream, now.
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Unread 07-21-2014, 01:27 PM   #39
last2stnd
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Intermittent Blower

This past spring my passenger side blend doors were not working so I pulled the glovebox off last night and found it was the actuator gear. I put everything back together and ordered the part. However today, my blower seems to be working intermittently. Anyone know what could have caused this? I tried switching between 'Auto' and manual fan, and it just seemed to turn on for a minute then shut off, then a few minutes later it would come back on.

The only thing I could think is that I didn't unplug the negative wire of the battery, since I only disconnected two light bulbs when I took the glove box off to access the actuator.
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Unread 07-21-2014, 01:39 PM   #40
ColdCase
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Perhaps knocked a blower connector loose... or some ground?
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Unread 07-28-2014, 10:09 AM   #41
Mpadrino27
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Intermittent blower possible solution

@last2stnd - This sounds very much like the issue I just recently dealt with. Did you find any small bits of black plastic in the passenger foot well? That's how I found out that mine were broken.

When the actuator gear breaks, it allows the actuator motor to travel beyond it's normal travel limit. Since the PCM controls and adjusts the HVAC system, the computer reads this extra travel as a fault, and signals the vehicle operator of the problem by switching the blower motor on for approximately 1 minute, and off for approximately 25 seconds.

The motors usually don't go bad, but the gears break constantly. I would recommend ordering several just to have on hand until needed, since they're only about $3/ea.

Once you replace the gear and secure the actuator motor, the PCM will begin to cycle the actuator motor to align the blend doors properly. This process could take anywhere from 30 seconds to 5 minutes. If everything is lined up properly, and the PCM detects proper gear/blend door travel, the blower motor should begin to function properly again.

Oh, and I would recommend disconnecting the negative battery cable before repairing the gear problem, as the space is tight, and the air bag actuators are located just above the glovebox door. One good knock might trigger it. Better safe than sorry, right?

Hope this helps!
Mpadrino27

Last edited by Mpadrino27; 07-28-2014 at 10:16 AM.. Reason: Add info
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Unread 07-30-2014, 05:50 AM   #42
ddw1668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpadrino27 View Post
@last2stnd - This sounds very much like the issue I just recently dealt with. Did you find any small bits of black plastic in the passenger foot well? That's how I found out that mine were broken.

When the actuator gear breaks, it allows the actuator motor to travel beyond it's normal travel limit. Since the PCM controls and adjusts the HVAC system, the computer reads this extra travel as a fault, and signals the vehicle operator of the problem by switching the blower motor on for approximately 1 minute, and off for approximately 25 seconds.

The motors usually don't go bad, but the gears break constantly. I would recommend ordering several just to have on hand until needed, since they're only about $3/ea.

Once you replace the gear and secure the actuator motor, the PCM will begin to cycle the actuator motor to align the blend doors properly. This process could take anywhere from 30 seconds to 5 minutes. If everything is lined up properly, and the PCM detects proper gear/blend door travel, the blower motor should begin to function properly again.

Oh, and I would recommend disconnecting the negative battery cable before repairing the gear problem, as the space is tight, and the air bag actuators are located just above the glovebox door. One good knock might trigger it. Better safe than sorry, right?

Hope this helps!
Mpadrino27
Thanks! The 30 seconds to five minutes for the actuator motor to cycle was causing me to think the system was not working...........Will buy some extra gears. Shame that Jeep can't put better stuff in an expensive vehicle........
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Unread 10-12-2014, 06:41 PM   #43
jgcsc
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Great forum, thanks to all who contributed to this thread. My JGC has the same issue on both sides, I'm still trying to figure out if it's the gears or the actuator itself that's broken. How do I calibrate the actuator, I don't have a scan tool
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Unread 10-15-2014, 04:16 PM   #44
1Clunk
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I'm kinda illed up for a new guy here.
I think my TIPM is trying to eat the driver's side actuator motors. It ate the original and trying to eat the replacement.
I hope it doesn't try to eat the transmission or fuel injection.
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Unread 10-18-2014, 09:37 PM   #45
1Clunk
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Talked to the Tech at the local dealer today.
Seems that the blend door activator is controlled by the Heater Control Module, not the TIPM.
They're ordering a new Mopar actuator then will determine what's going on.
Will update the results in a few days.
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