No heat on passenger side - blend door gears - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 152 Old 03-14-2014, 12:05 PM
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I can understand that. I'm not sure if the air conditioning will be affected or not. Most people don't have air conditioning pointed at the floor.

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post #17 of 152 Old 03-14-2014, 12:33 PM
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I have found that on my 2014 GC limited, heater system is a little funky to operate in manual mode, so I've been just letting it stay set on automatic and seems to work o.k. at least for now.
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post #18 of 152 Old 03-14-2014, 09:51 PM
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I too have a broken passenger side blend door gear. I'm grateful that I came across this thread, not sure replacing it will solve all my Jeep's HVAC problems, but if it does it will be much cheaper than the $1,000 plus estimate from the dealer.

My question is about the first diagram on this thread and the actuator indicated with the red arrow. Can anyone tell me what this does? While investigating the broken gear I found that I am missing it completely, the wiring connector is there but no actuator at all. It seems it would open and close a curved cover above the recirculating blower.

I am trying to troubleshoot an intermittent blower problem on my 2011 G.C. Overland. Sometimes the blower responds to the control knob, but sometimes nothing. Then I'll be sitting at a light and everything will kick on full blast. Any thoughts? Thanks for your help.

Last edited by rhonsinger; 03-14-2014 at 10:18 PM.
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post #19 of 152 Old 03-15-2014, 08:57 AM
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The red arrow points toward the Recirculation door actuator.

Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #20 of 152 Old 03-26-2014, 08:35 PM
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my problem is very similar to this but its the drivers side that only blows cold air. i took apart trim under the steering wheel to peek at the actuator and if i disconnect the hvac control unit and reconnect it, it definitely still moves and may even work for a few days but when it moves to the hot side it seems to try and keep going then it just resets over and over until it decides to stop and stay put on the cold side. so im gonna rule out the actuator since it moves, and i also think the door itself is good because when its moving the air is changing temperatures. i think i may have the same problem with the $2 plastic gear thing but how can i remove it on the drivers side cuz its seriously tight in there and im trying to avoid removing the entire dash. any help would be greatly appreciated guys. the only temporary repair im using for now is to just disconnect the hvac control and leave it at about 70% towards the heat side and kinda hope it stays for a couple days.

im new to forums but drewbreezy if you see this since you seem to be mechnicially good can you tell me if you think this would work on the drivers side? and are the screws torx? or allens? thanks in advance
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post #21 of 152 Old 03-27-2014, 04:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juvi925 View Post
my problem is very similar to this but its the drivers side that only blows cold air. i took apart trim under the steering wheel to peek at the actuator and if i disconnect the hvac control unit and reconnect it, it definitely still moves and may even work for a few days but when it moves to the hot side it seems to try and keep going then it just resets over and over until it decides to stop and stay put on the cold side. so im gonna rule out the actuator since it moves, and i also think the door itself is good because when its moving the air is changing temperatures. i think i may have the same problem with the $2 plastic gear thing but how can i remove it on the drivers side cuz its seriously tight in there and im trying to avoid removing the entire dash. any help would be greatly appreciated guys. the only temporary repair im using for now is to just disconnect the hvac control and leave it at about 70% towards the heat side and kinda hope it stays for a couple days.

im new to forums but drewbreezy if you see this since you seem to be mechnicially good can you tell me if you think this would work on the drivers side? and are the screws torx? or allens? thanks in advance
If I get a minute later at work I'll take a peek under the dash in a WK and let you know what I think. I've haven't done a driver side gear yet so I can't say off the top of my head. Passenger side actuator screws are T20 torx, I do know that.
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post #22 of 152 Old 03-31-2014, 06:48 PM
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i finally decided to try and fix my issue so i ordered the gear and took pics of how it went in case it can be of any help to anyone out there. im not sure how to embed the pics so ill just describe and you can scroll down to check the pic. i took off the panels under the steering column, the center console, and the side by the drivers side in order to see the actuator which controls the temperature for the drivers side and as you can see in the picture i provided, the screw i circled in blue is pretty easy to access with a t20 bit, the screw circled in red was an absolute nightmare because there is no way to get any tool slim enough to remove it. luckily i work in a shop so i cut a t20 bit in half and used a small 1/4 wrench to turn it as you can see in the pics. finally the actuator came out and the gear sits between the actuator and blend door. unfortunately i did all that for nothing because my gear was fine but i did notice it was different from the one i just ordered at the dealer and circled the picture so u can see what i mean. i decided to test the actuator a bit more though and suspected it may be the faulty part even though it moves and kinda works. well since i already had it all apart i actually took apart the actuator and determined it was definitely busted because it seemed to be skipping gears and when i took it apart i noticed the gears were all worn down and missing chunks. anyways as of right now my truck is still sitting there all apart while i wait for the new actuator to arrive and im pretty sure thats gonna fix the problem. oh and just to verify that door is not the problem you can move it by hand once the gear and actuator is out and lucky for me it seems to be fine because i can get full heat and full cool when i turn it to both ends. hopefully this helps anyone who gets this issue and doesnt want to pay thousands to have the dealer supposedly remove the dash...
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post #23 of 152 Old 03-31-2014, 08:29 PM
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Thanks for the update

Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #24 of 152 Old 04-21-2014, 12:58 PM
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Thanks for pointing me toward this ColdCase.

I'll try to document the process a bit, once my $2 part comes in the mail.

JeepCares, any chance of this becoming a Service Bulletin?
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post #25 of 152 Old 04-22-2014, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WKdeuce View Post
JeepCares, any chance of this becoming a Service Bulletin?
I doubt it as there is already a STAR case that gives information to the technician on diagnosing a concern of "Drivers Side Or Passenger Side HVAC Temperature Will Not Change And/Or Blower Speed Changes Without Customer Input." It's up to the technician to diagnose it.

Note #4 on the parts illustration I have. 4 - GEAR,Actuator
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post #26 of 152 Old 04-22-2014, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by JeepCares View Post
Note #4 on the parts illustration I have. 4 - GEAR,Actuator
Thanks for the reply.
Can't see though, your pic is too small.
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post #27 of 152 Old 04-22-2014, 09:19 AM
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This is a little better-
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post #28 of 152 Old 04-23-2014, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juvi925 View Post
i finally decided to try and fix my issue so i ordered the gear and took pics of how it went in case it can be of any help to anyone out there. im not sure how to embed the pics so ill just describe and you can scroll down to check the pic. i took off the panels under the steering column, the center console, and the side by the drivers side in order to see the actuator which controls the temperature for the drivers side and as you can see in the picture i provided, the screw i circled in blue is pretty easy to access with a t20 bit, the screw circled in red was an absolute nightmare because there is no way to get any tool slim enough to remove it. luckily i work in a shop so i cut a t20 bit in half and used a small 1/4 wrench to turn it as you can see in the pics. finally the actuator came out and the gear sits between the actuator and blend door. unfortunately i did all that for nothing because my gear was fine but i did notice it was different from the one i just ordered at the dealer and circled the picture so u can see what i mean. i decided to test the actuator a bit more though and suspected it may be the faulty part even though it moves and kinda works. well since i already had it all apart i actually took apart the actuator and determined it was definitely busted because it seemed to be skipping gears and when i took it apart i noticed the gears were all worn down and missing chunks. anyways as of right now my truck is still sitting there all apart while i wait for the new actuator to arrive and im pretty sure thats gonna fix the problem. oh and just to verify that door is not the problem you can move it by hand once the gear and actuator is out and lucky for me it seems to be fine because i can get full heat and full cool when i turn it to both ends. hopefully this helps anyone who gets this issue and doesnt want to pay thousands to have the dealer supposedly remove the dash...

Nice pics juvi....thanks.
Is it any wonder why these parts fail? Sad.....
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post #29 of 152 Old 05-10-2014, 09:19 AM
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Just went through hell to get this little gear out of the driver's side. It's not the external gear that's the problem, it's the actuator itself all stripped out internally. Don't make the mistake I did, buy #3, not #4.



Thanks for the documentation juvi925

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Originally Posted by JeepCares View Post
Note #4 on the parts illustration I have. 4 - GEAR,Actuator
It's not #4, it's #3 that's the faulty Chrysler piece of ****.

Also, F those torx head screws. I was unable to re-install them. Used a combo 1/4" drive/phillips head (old XJ cherokee dashboard screws if you're familiar) they were much easier to get in there, since I could just pop the 1/4" driver on them. I have some more pics I'll upload in a little bit (or monday when I'm getting paid to waste time on jeepforum)
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post #30 of 152 Old 05-12-2014, 11:12 AM
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Here's some pictures of what you'd be up against if you're going to try this.
This all comes out so that you can remove enough plastic to see it.
Most everything is 7mm.
Under the steering wheel is a metal plate, I removed it and the right side bracket (not show) which are 8mm bolts.



My tool.
I used a T20, and a 1/4" ratchet wrench, with a little wax melted in there to hold the bit in place.



If you do this with the motor hot, the 2 coolant lines will be about 200, so you'll have that fun to work with too.
With no point of reference, this could be anywhere... it's just in front where your right knee is when driving, forward though, above the gas pedal. For me, the driver side was getting no AC, the passenger side was blowing ice cubes.

Also, there's another duct that clips onto this square outlet, I popped it off too.



The only thing difficult about this, is reinstalling the screws that hold the actuator in there. The rest is just a little bit time consuming.

Here you can see it removed, those posts go through the actuator and receive the screws.

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