Modification Write Ups - Page 5 - JeepForum.com

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post #61 of 78 Old 03-17-2014, 09:02 AM
eibyer
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Finally completed the install except for the front trim. I need to do some minor adjustments when I get the time but overall happy with the result. I'm happy with the TH version, the extra bit that extends out from the body rubs on my pants already. The tube one would probably drive me nuts, but it does give the extra ding protection.

The flag bolts need a better way of being secured, the push nuts are not gonna cut it and will eventually lead to someone messing up when it's time to push the rail up to the body. The last bolt on the pinch weld closest to the front of the body is the most annoying one to install. Grrr

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post #62 of 78 Old 03-18-2014, 08:27 AM
eibyer
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Had a few minutes to make a rough cut on the plastic trim. It still needs some sanding/filing until it fits nicely. Some pics after being cut and trimmed with a dremel.
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post #63 of 78 Old 03-18-2014, 02:54 PM
JMP8562
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like to see the finished product. thanks for sharing

89 lifted wrangler to 95 lifted cherokee to 01 GC now 07 JK 4 DOOR X WITH HIGH ROCK FRONT WINCH BUMPER APPROACH ROLLERS/WARN 9.5TI WINCH WITH UNDER THE HOOD CUT-OFF SWITCH/2.5" SS lift/1"M.O.R.E BL/33" BFG KM2 ON STOCK 17"/RIVER RAIDER ROCKER GUARDS-SLIDERS/OFF ROAD HEROS FASTBACK SOFT TOP/GIBSON DUEL EXHAUST/CUSTOM MADE TRUNK/HELLA FF300/HELLA500 W-WINDSHIELD MOUNTS/DELTA SKYBAR/CARBON FIBER DASH KIT/DUEL AND SINGLE GUAGE PODS WITH VOLT-OIL PRESSURE-OIL TEMP GUAGES/COBRA 75 CB/AND A LOT OF RECOVERY GEAR
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post #64 of 78 Old 03-21-2014, 10:16 AM
eibyer
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Sad to say I think there will be no finished product. I agree with fwdjeep's comment about the poor design. If the plastic trim is cut to how they have it in the install instructions, there's about 3/4" of the front of the skid plate that is visible. It looks tacky, probably better leave it off and just cover the hole with something else. You can see it in this video.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05RJzpRQNJk -- he did a better job at trimming his but still leaves parts exposed.
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post #65 of 78 Old 06-06-2014, 02:30 AM
KickRocks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damascusHEMI View Post
The Corsa mufflers are tucked up tight and since we painted them black, you really can't see them. The sound is fantastic...I took it on a 8 hour round trip recently for the Virginia Tech vs. MD game. I can barely hear the rumble while cruising without load, however it roars when you get on it. Very nice. Take a look -
How much

Last edited by Jackal01; 06-06-2014 at 06:13 AM. Reason: No point in quoting pictures.
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post #66 of 78 Old 06-26-2014, 12:20 PM
2013hemijp
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Wow, that is Purdy!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 14summithemi View Post
Many thanks to the team at Corsa Performance (TMG Performance Products) for working with me and agreeing to do this special run. This will use the current Product #14457 (3.0" Cat-Back, Dual Rear Exit with Single 4.0" Polished Pro-Series Tips) that fits the 2011-2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L V8 MODIFIED with a different exit/bend out of the mufflers using 2 round tips per muffler staggered to better fit the rounded contour (see pics). Product # and ordering info TBD per below.

First, let me assure everyone I get zippo from this deal (I paid for my exhaust) I am just being the front man since I was first and live next to HQ. Please run all questions through me at this point. If you call Corsa, he will just direct you to me….thx

Looking to know who is willing to step forward and speak for one of the initial systems. I am looking for those who WILL BUY and those who are JUST INTERESTED. If you need to do research, decide, ect…then you are JUST INTERESTED which is great too. If you would be placing the order right now if you could then you are a WILL BUY. Just trying to see what the initial pool of buyers and prospects looks like so Corsa can decide the size of the first run.

To respond either reply to this thread or PM me. Either way, your spot on the WILL BUY list will be confirmed by return PM. To ensure the WILL BUYS get their systems the order info will only be sent by PM that way no one gets boned.

This is also posted on Jeep Garage Dot Org under the same title. I will combine the lists so please only reply on one forum.

Per Corsa…On a group buy of 10 the cost is $1597.50 each + shipping + ZERO TAX (In and out of Ohio). Once an order of 10 is ready to be placed it will take about 2 weeks lead time (Could be 3 pending work load in engineering/production at the time). It is a one box system that is about 98 lbs and some change, Shipping is expected to be around $75-105 flat depending on location, residential vs. business address, etc…The group buy would be run through one of Corsa’s nearby (Berea, OH) accounts to handle cc processing etc…The ordering contact info would be PM’d to the WILL BUY forum members.

As of 2/7/14 I have (7) WILL BUY folks. Those (7) should have a PM from me. Let’s see what the numbers look like through Sunday 2/16/14. Should have at least (10) by then. That would mean you could have it by St. Patty’s Day or so.

The Volant CAI is not included in this group buy. Pics below, videos at links below.

FAQ’s:

EASE OF INSTALL? Corsa will install for FREE at their facility in Berea, OH (really!). Or go here: http://www.corsaperformance.com/medi...ll/INS5182.pdf

FLOW? Average of 97% gain over stock

WHAT’S IN THE BOX? Everything needed to complete the installation is included. Each system includes the mufflers, pipes, hangars, 304SS Polished Tips you choose and all of the necessary instructions and information for installation.

PERFORMANCE? Performance varies by the vehicle and system chosen. On average, CORSA systems will deliver a 3-5% increase in horsepower, though this may vary by vehicle. For example, our Corvette systems will see in average increase of 17-19 HP increases with the addition of our full cat-back system. In addition to HP increases, CORSA systems will dramatically increase free-air-flow, allowing your other performance modifications to achieve their full performance potential.

WEIGHT REDUCTION? 13 lbs. lighter than stock

DRONE? CORSA's Patented RSC® Technology is designed for an AGGRESSIVE SOUND under acceleration and a DRONE-FREE EXPERIENCE

WARRANTY? Your current stock exhaust: None! Corsa: Limited LIFETIME warranty for as long as you own your vehicle with proof of purchase.

MY 2 CENTS? It sounds awesome when you want it to but is civil otherwise. It is the least droning system you can get, virtually zero except when MDS kicks in you get a little drone but it goes away. All exhaust mods affect an engine’s power delivery. The Corsa takes a small bit off your 0-60 times but really perks up your rolling “punch”. It has a really cool feedback snarl when you stomp it and the tranny shifts. Heads snap when I hit it. Pretty funny. Gas mileage impact? Well, never mind that’s not the point.

SYSTEM/PIPE DIAM/MATERIAL?
Stock, 2.5", galvanized
Corsa, 3.0", all 300 series stainless
Magnaflow, 2.5", 400 series stainless pipes, 300 tips
Flowmaster 2.5", 400 series stainless pipes, 300 tips
Gibson, 2.25", 400 series stainless pipes, 300 tips
Borla, 2.5", all 300 series stainless

SO WHAT? The reason most use 2.5 is not (according to their tech support) because it is better for backpressure/hp/torque but because the larger diameter creates too large a sound wave internally creating too aggressive a sounding exhaust and unacceptable interior noise (drone). This is the RSC patent Corsa has for noise cancelling to deal with the bigger sound waves from the larger pipe diameter. Regarding the 300 vs. 400 stainless composition. For the consumer 300 series is better. It has no (or very little) iron so it resists rust/corrosion the best but is more expensive to make and harder to bend. 400 series is best for the manufacturer. It is softer and easier to mandrel bend and cheaper. They mitigate it's surface rusting by using it in the undercarriage/non-visisble areas and use 300 in the visible tips and sometimes post/end muffler if visible. I guess the 400 series has more iron in it that when it goes thru its initial heat/tempering cycle in use the iron comes to the surface and forms surface only rust. Looks bad but supposedly will not rust out internally.

YouTube video of "Thunder runs"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWOLcOXmKT0
YouTube video of "0 - 60 run Inside"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VI1nDbl4ugg
YouTube video of Startup, Idel, Rev
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FUJsvwrlodw

Tom from Walla Walla, WA
2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee Altitude Hemi-Maximum Steel
2010 Dodge Challenger R/T w/6 spd-B5 Blue
(yes, I love Mopar and Hemi's!!)
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post #67 of 78 Old 07-27-2014, 08:29 PM
MikeD73USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100thdeuce View Post
It looks like in this pic the exhaust has some rather radical welded turns in the pipes. Is it just the angle of the pic or is it that severe? I can't imagine that would flow very well.

Also, I've been looking online and there seems to be two different kits. One is 14457 and one is 14466. Is one of these what you installed?
I was thinking the same thing on those sharp angled welded offsets. Did corsa improve on this yet? I know this is an old post post, but I think for non SRT wk2, we would pick the one ending in 57.

//\\//\\ikeD73USA
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post #68 of 78 Old 05-08-2015, 10:36 AM
ColdCase
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Radio Firmware Updates

You can get some help here:

www.mygig-disk.com/index.php

You can download the updated firmware here:

http://mygig-disk.com/download-rhr.php


Also this site provides updates and grace notes:

http://navrepair.com/pages/downloads


The following info has been posted on many forums for years, and used to be on the mygig site before it disappeared:

MyDrive - Ihr Schweizer Online-Speicher (http://www.mydrive.ch)

login:

username: mygig@soxag
password: gasolio


1) Use the link above and use the login information supplied.
2) Go to the My gig folder and find the applicable software up for your radio.
3) Download the ISO file
4) Burn the ISO image onto DVD
5) Insert the DVD into your radio and it will ask you if you want to update to the newer version.

You can also use a USB stick instead of a DVD.

Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #69 of 78 Old 11-09-2015, 04:58 PM
diverb
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So when I'm hooking up the boat trailer or snowmobile trailer at night, I kept thinking I needed and wanted more light. I added a set of four Rigid Industries Rock lights to the rear of my GC. The install was pretty simple and straight forward. All the parts needed are included with the kit. I recommend measuring out the spacing on where you want to mount the lights and then make a template out of cardboard. I apologize for not taking more pictures or doing a step by step guide. I was done with the install when the thought occurred to me to post on the forum, sorry.

http://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/40020




The kit comes with a wiring harness which each individual light plugs into, and is on a separate fuse. I installed the box next to the jump post on the passenger side of the vehicle. There is a simple toggle switch (included in kit) I installed on the dash board to the left of the steering column to turn the lights on when I want.

2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 diesel -PPEI DPF/SCR delete tune, Custom 3" down pipe, BANKS Exhaust
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post #70 of 78 Old 11-16-2015, 04:35 PM
breadmonster
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I'm working on having a bluetooth device connect to our uconnect and control some lighting features outside the vehicle through the uconnect touchscreen. Everything seems to be playing nicely, but there are some (seemingly) random issues with the bluetooth connection that are causing unwanted commands being sent across bluetooth. Anyone made any software to communicate with bluetooth in uconnect by any chance?
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post #71 of 78 Old 01-27-2016, 04:19 PM
rplante3108
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those are some awesome write ups. Great detail and thanks found this site a couple days ago and has been a big help.
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post #72 of 78 Old 02-08-2016, 06:03 PM
amtrucker22
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Nexus 7 install

So on my last truck I had a custom bezel made for my Nexus 7. It actually replaced my headunit. This time around I am good with the headunit that is in the Jeep but I wanted my Waze and misc apps that I like in my truck. Looking at the console I figured out that if I remove the silver pocket door that the Nexus might fit in there.

It actually fits very nice. I need to do some minor adjustments but I do not even have to 'mount' it since it fits and stays without any mounting required. Here are the pics.





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post #73 of 78 Old 02-08-2016, 06:56 PM
ColdCase
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Good idea.

Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #74 of 78 Old 02-11-2016, 01:27 PM
Lightninrod
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That's where I put my Uniden Bearcat CB:

http://goo.gl/photos/DCrAyz2k1tnaTJhUA

Dan
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post #75 of 78 Old 02-20-2016, 11:11 AM
polizei
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Posted 6-6-14

So, I finally got around to doing the install of the XenonDepot HID kit for the 2014 JGC. I got the H11 kit with the low-beam HID's, fogs, and interior LED's. Both the headlights and fogs are 5000k

I won't go over the entire installation, because I was running out of time and didn't have the time to stop and take pictures and do a step-by-step. The install took about 3 hours total. The most difficult part was trying to figure out what to plug into what with all those wires...:lol:

Once I had the one side done, the other was a lot faster!

To get the bumper off, I used this video to help:


There's been some people that are apparently saying it's possible to do this kit on a 11-13' without the bumper removal, that is NOT the case for the 14's in my experience, there is just NO way that can be done. That said, the bumper removal was actually pretty easy.

Note* Some people are reporting that you need to buy a rivet-gun to re-assemble the bumper, this is NOT true! The rivets on the fender liner have a small hole in the center, if you use a small punch, it will "knock" the screw loose, and you'll be able to remove it. I was able to re-use mine, but YMMV.

After you get the bumper removed, you need to remove the low-beam bulb. I HIGHLY suggest leaving the headlight housing where it is. I removed mine, and during the re-install, the housing slightly shifted, causing the bumper to hang up and not go on...ended up taking a slight chip out of the bumper!

Next is to start the wiring, hook up all the connections and you should have a positive and ground. I had a problem with this...as I thought this kit was "plug and play," which it isn't. This issue is two-fold. First, unless I'm missing something, the positive and negative (ground) did NOT fit on anything, so I had to splice a larger connector on the end so it would fit around the positive terminal (screw). The ground on the passenger side fit just fine.

The second issue I ran into was that you need to drill out the headlight cover, as the factory bulb is covered by the plastic twist-cap. To properly waterproof the bulb and housing, you need to drill a 1 1/8" hole in the center of the cap. This isn't difficult, just a step I had no idea about before hand...

I would also HIGHLY suggest starting on the passenger side, as you'll have much more room to work with, the ground is right there, and the positive terminal. The driver side is a bit more tricky, there's less space, and I couldn't find a positive or ground to save my life. I eventually ended up grounding it on the front of the frame near the radiator, and ran the positive over to the terminal, again, having to splice a new, larger end-connector.

Below are some pictures of where I mounted the ballast, wires, etc. I used 3M heavy duty double sided tape and zip-ties. I wanted everything to be removable, for obvious reasons. Overall, I'm very happy with the product, the light output is SO much better than the factory halogens. Brighter, more light, the flood is much better, and I have yet to get flashed by oncoming drivers. Overall I would recommend this product, just be able to devote a few hours for the install and the possibility of having your vehicle down due to the removal of the bumper.

Zip-tied wires on the passenger side, you can also see the top of the ballast where I mounted it to the frame:



Wires tucked next to the air filter housing and I zip-tied the Canbus to the washer-fluid cap so that I could remove it if needed, and to prevent it from rattling:



Relay mounted to the frame, with the driver-side positive being ran under the frame rail and zip-tied in place, leading to the positive terminal. Also note the screw on the left, that's where I ground the driver-side. I mounted the driver-side ballast on the radiator below the relay:



Both positives mounted to the terminal in the fuse box. Note the larger connectors I had to use to go over the screw:



Very even cut off:



Parking Lot:



Road:



I apologize for the parking and road pics, they were a bit difficult to get, ha.

I hope this helps someone!

2014: RRO 2.5" Lift, 32" LT275/65/18 Nitto Terra Grapplers, Pro-Comp 7089, XenonDepot HID Kit
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