I searched around and couldn’t find a hardwire install guide, so I figured I would make one in hopes of helping out others. I’ll start off by saying that I’m not very mechanically inclined…I can take anything apart, but getting it back together is another story! In terms of overall difficulty, I would rate this a 5/10.
The first thing you want to do is mount the front camera to the windshield. This is easily accomplished, just make sure the camera is oriented the correct way (power on right side), and place it as far up as you can, so the lens is as close to the windshield as possible. Please note that the kit comes with an extra double-sided adhesive strip, in case you mess up.
2. The next thing you’ll want to do is take apart the glove box. The “tray” on top comes out by collapsing the “legs” on both sides. Simply pull that out. The next step is to remove the glove box itself. There are TWO screws on top with rubber grommets over them. Lastly, there are FOUR screws on the bottom which need to be removed. Once those are removed, you should be able to collapse the two “feet” on the inside, and the box will fall. When the box falls, just lift up and un-hinge it, then pull it out.
In this picture you can see where the screws were located, they have the copper backing.
3. Next you’ll want to locate a grommet that is behind the glove box on the firewall.
[Glove Box View]
[Engine Bay View]
I took an awl and punched a hole in the center. Feed the power cable through the grommet.
4. This step is time consuming and a bit frustrating… now you need to run the power cable through the grommet (the end that connects to the dash cam) and through the firewall (cigarette lighter end). Once you have that complete, you’ll need to push the grommet through the firewall and use needle-nose pliers to “wiggle” the grommet back in place.
Note* I found it best to “tie” the power cable (cigarette end) to the hood-hinge in the engine bay BEFORE pulling the cable back through the grommet. If you don’t do this, you risk having the cable come back through the firewall.
5. Once the grommet is in place you can proceed to the engine bay and fuse box. You’ll need to hook up the Multi-Safer or Power Magic Pro now. In this case, I’m using the Multi-Safer. To hook this up, you’ll need to find a constant source of power for the red wire, a ground, and a fuse which is only hot while the ignition is activated. I used the following, because they met the requirements and had nothing to do with the safety equipment in the vehicle.
Red - F67 (Bluetooth)
Yellow - F96 (Rear Seat Heater)
You’ll also note that I ground at a nearby bolt on the left side of the engine bay.
You can also see that I lifted up the weather stripping and ran the rest of the wires attached to the Multi-Safer to the cowl area. This is an attempt to block as much heat as possible. If the unit overheats, it will automatically shut off, and I want to use parking mode, so I’m trying to avoid that!
6. Plug in the cigarette lighter and Multi-Safer unit. Zip tie any loose wires and stick some double-sided tape on the Multi-Safer. I chose to mount it to the side of the engine bay, facing up, so that I could still adjust the settings if necessary.
7. This step is also a little frustrating and time consuming, but no where near as much as going through the firewall! Once the engine bay stuff is hooked up, you’ll need to pull back the weather stripping and side-trim panels (if necessary) to run the power cable from the camera to the glove-box area. I HIGHLY recommend you attach the power cable to the camera BEFORE running the cables through the weather stripping.
Start at the camera and tuck the cable up to the center of the rear-view mirror and around to the passenger side, around the A-pillar to the weather stripping on the door, and down the side inside the glove box area.
Before you go any further, you’ll want to hook up the rear camera (if applicable). Revert back to step 1 and repeat. Once the camera is secure, start with the power cable at the FRONT camera. Plug it in, and repeat the process of running the cable to the passenger weather stripping. Instead of going down to the glove box, keep running the cable all the way to the lift-gate.
Once at the lift-gate, you’ll notice an overlap in the plastic, I took a long flat screwdriver and “fished” the cable through, but an actual fishing tape will work (or anything really). Pull the cable through the lift-gate (from inside to outside).
Next you’ll want to run the cable to the rear camera and hook it up. Rid the excess cable by tucking it up under the plastic cover. I used two supplied clips to secure the cable and to keep it neat. Note that you will have to open and close the lift-gate to ensure that there is enough slack in the cable. After doing that, I noticed that the metal under the weather stripping was chewing at the wires. I added some electrical tape at the “pinch point” to try and prevent this. You can also go through the grommet if you wish, however that’s more involved and permanent.
8. Everything should now be hooked up and powered. All you need to do is put the weather stripping back in place and re-secure the glove box. I chose to put my excess wires in the glove box area with a zip-tie to keep it neat. If you did it right, there should be virtually no wires showing.
I hope this guide helps someone! It’s a PITA that Jeep put the fuse box in the engine bay, but obviously with a bit of work a clean install can be accomplished.
Special thanks to Alex at www.blackboxmycar.com
I have no affiliation with him, however due to his video tutorials and positive feedback, I decided to order from him. He also agreed to switch the PMP to a Multi-Safer instead. Prompt emails, great customer service.