[ColdCase]

Taking a look at the parts catalog, there are currently four different sway bars

68184510AA is used on the front of all non SRTs regardless of engine, about $225 This part supersedes 52124887AD
68184511AA is used on all SRT fronts, about $194. This part supersedes 52124887AD
68184507AA is used on all SRT rears, about $167. This part supersedes 52124851AD
68184508AA is used on the rear of all non SRTs regardless of engine, about $110 . This part supersedes 52124885AD

They are interchangeable, fit all WK2s 2011-2015. New bushings and body mount hardware comes with the bars. Links are extra.

Std front bar: ~34mm -measured +/- all models are the same
Std rear bar: ~23mm -measured +/- all models are the same

SRT front bar: 35mm -specified
SRT rear bar: 25mm -specified

The SRT front bars are a tad shorter, heavier, and probably solid, where standard bars are hollow and not as stiff. The rear SRT bars are noticeably beefier, fronts not so much.

The SRT end links are a tad shorter, perhaps because the SRT normally sits lower.

Swapping the rear bar will provide the most improvement and is worthwhile but if you want the most responsive handling, replace both bars. The links are optional, however QL Jeeps ride lower in sport or aero mode so the slightly shorted SRT links may work a bit better.

Much of the confusion is from WK owners (2005-2010) where slapping just the rears on makes handling a handful. The WK2 works differently.

Edit: The sway bar part numbers changed in 2016. Its not clear if its just mounting location differences or also stiffness.

 

[Kolak]

Hellwig has a rear bar for the WK2 now. I'm about to order one and compare it to the SRT bar. Stay tuned...

 

[Dave2002ti]

One should use sway bars to fine tune the handling of the vehicle. They shouldn't be used to compensate for the automaker's ineptitude in chassis design. Using"thicker sway bars" to prevent body roll can cause serious issues ie serious damage to the whatever parts that are used to attach the sway bars to include cracks and separation.

Since no one makes a kit of springs, shocks, links, tabs, stress bars and roll bars we are have to roll are own. Also what works on the street may not work off road or on different road surfaces. No one offers a sway bar disconnect??? I am off road and going across acres of fields several times a month so stiffer sway bars make no sense. Adjustable with a disconnect might with a springs and Bilstein shocks designed as part of package for the driving I do. No one offers this and no one will so I may just replace the shocks w/Bilsteins and eliminate the rear leveling shocks. Also I would much rather works dogs than like back in good ole days and do chassis tuning with several spring, shock packages, and sway bars. I am guessing 10 years from know you just be able to download a new program to do the same thing for those of us who like to drive ourselves. Also depends on what our govt and the do gooders want to protect us from. There is at least one SUV that comes closer to what I need and its more reliable than a GC at twice the price. Since tax payers pay my salary and morons on the Hill want to cut my pay my next ride will probably some old used Suzuki CUV.

 

[Kolak]

I have the Bilstein WK2 shocks and struts available and feedback has been excellent. However, the rear springs for the Nivomat equipped WK2 Jeeps are of a softer rate than the others. Bilstein only makes the rear shocks for non-Nivomat Jeeps so they may be underdamped.

OME has a shock for Nivomat equipped Jeeps so they may be the better choice.

 

[Dave2002ti]

Thanks for the Info

I have the Bilstein WK2 shocks and struts available and feedback has been excellent. However, the rear springs for the Nivomat equipped WK2 Jeeps are of a softer rate than the others. Bilstein only makes the rear shocks for non-Nivomat Jeeps so they may be underdamped.

OME has a shock for Nivomat equipped Jeeps so they may be the better choice.

Sir,

Thanks very much for the info above. I didn't know the springs were softer w/ the Nivomat. When I get closer to purchase I check costs of regular rear springs and hardware for Nivomat removal vs the OME shocks. might also check out spring rates front and rear for diesel and V8 vs the V6 I have and see if it might be worth it to swap.

 

[ColdCase]

Hellwig has a rear bar for the WK2 now. I'm about to order one and compare it to the SRT bar. Stay tuned...

I don't see it on their product page, must just be out? Let us know what it looks like.

 

[dcorn]

I have the Bilstein WK2 shocks and struts available and feedback has been excellent. However, the rear springs for the Nivomat equipped WK2 Jeeps are of a softer rate than the others. Bilstein only makes the rear shocks for non-Nivomat Jeeps so they may be underdamped.

OME has a shock for Nivomat equipped Jeeps so they may be the better choice.

What is nivomat? The load leveling shocks?

Kolak, hit me up if you ever hear of a shock replacement for the quadra-lift. I guess the rear shocks can be swapped, but the fronts are integrated into the air strut. The shocks are wayy too soft on my summit.

 

[ColdCase]

Nivomat is the load leveling shocks.

I'd also like a little more QL shock damping.

 

[Reswob]

If you want the best handling, replace all the bars and links.

The way I see it, the SRT endlinks are shorter because the SRT is lower. I'd think if you put the shorter SRT links on a standard WK2, you would be changing the angle of the swaybar from what it was designed to be. There seems to be a lot of conflicting suggestions on various forums about using SRT links or not when swapping bars. The only picture I've managed to find of the standard sway bar and the SRT on top of each other, they appear to be exactly the same (in terms of shape). So, to keep the same geometry as the SRT, one should use the non-SRT endlinks. Unless you lower your WK2 with SRT springs...

Not a suspension engineer, so feel free to chime in with disagreements. This is just what I think from my experience.

 

[ColdCase]

Are the SRT links beefier and handles more stress? There is not much difference in length, probably insignificant unless you are racing and competing.

By the way, for serious off road situations you want each wheel operating independently and one doesn't care about lean in a turn as one is not going that fast. Most just disconnect the sway bars. There is a compromise between best on road feel and logging road feel that is subjective. Those with strong feelings about what they want install adjustable bars.. but those are not available yet for a WK2 as far as I know.

 

[biker2k]

I contacted bwoody a while back about this and he said his links are the same for either srt or not

 

[Gunny7]

Just get the bars.
SRT Links are shorter because SRT sits lower all the time.
What you got is fine.
I didnt know the front SRT bar is different.
Good to know. Because i feel the front moving a little.
With Overland v8 have to be happy with the stock shocks.
If you use stock links you are not going to be disconnecting for offroad. Hassel to install stock.
Aftermarket quick disconnect for this.
By the way the bushings are completely attached. Cannot improve this.

 

[ColdCase]

When QL goes into aero mode or sport mode, the suspension lowers the ride height by 15 mm (0.59 in.). If one was anal and wanted optimum handling in sport mode, one may think about the shorter SRT links (instead of the one size fit all standard WK2 parts)? Personally I think the difference may be in the noise, but just wanted to mention it.

The spec sheet says SRT axle clearances are 9 inches both ends. The standard V6 is 9.3 front and 10 inches rear, thats a rear difference of an inch. Air suspension will bring the rear axle down to 9.4 inches or so.

I would think the shorter links may be a disadvantage at ORA1 or 2 height...

 

[loveracing1988]

One should use sway bars to fine tune the handling of the vehicle. They shouldn't be used to compensate for the automaker's ineptitude in chassis design. Using"thicker sway bars" to prevent body roll can cause serious issues ie serious damage to the whatever parts that are used to attach the sway bars to include cracks and separation.

Since no one makes a kit of springs, shocks, links, tabs, stress bars and roll bars we are have to roll are own. Also what works on the street may not work off road or on different road surfaces. No one offers a sway bar disconnect??? I am off road and going across acres of fields several times a month so stiffer sway bars make no sense. Adjustable with a disconnect might with a springs and Bilstein shocks designed as part of package for the driving I do. No one offers this and no one will so I may just replace the shocks w/Bilsteins and eliminate the rear leveling shocks. Also I would much rather works dogs than like back in good ole days and do chassis tuning with several spring, shock packages, and sway bars. I am guessing 10 years from know you just be able to download a new program to do the same thing for those of us who like to drive ourselves. Also depends on what our govt and the do gooders want to protect us from. There is at least one SUV that comes closer to what I need and its more reliable than a GC at twice the price. Since tax payers pay my salary and morons on the Hill want to cut my pay my next ride will probably some old used Suzuki CUV.

Sway bar disconnects in a independent front and rear suspension vehicle won't do you much good. Going accross muddy fields wouldn't flex enough to need them anyway.

 

[Gunny7]

Will be a very rare GC Wk2 that goes very far down much more that gravel roads.
Its not the road that might damage too much.
Its the branches and brushes that will do a number on the paint.
What beater pickups are for.

 

[ColdCase]

There are quite a few that toy with the WK2 off road with impressive results. Its quite a capable machine. It may not look pretty with one tire swinging in the air, but it gets you there as long as ground clearance is sufficient. The OEM skid plates provide a bit of protection, but there are aftermarket stuff that is much better. Although the MOPAR rock rails are strong and effective, me I'd be too anxious about bending metal on my daily driver.

 

[Gunny7]

Got mine cause it could do those things.
Probably never will though.
But could.
I go back so i even really like the little things on the front light lenses.

 

[Gunny7]

Speaking of bars the SRT bar came today.
The ----511AA bar. Sport Suspension
One i have is ---512AA. The tape with part number.
2014 Overland v8.
Googled, says this fits all with Normal Suspension.
Probably change it tomorrow.
Heavy, solid bar.
Sitting on the garage floor looks pretty much the same to what i can see around the skid plate.
Measures the same wirh my Calibrators.
But i know material, small geometry differences can matter.
If anything is hollow it is whats there now.
We'll see

 

[ColdCase]

Let us know what you think.

My rear bar was delivered yesterday. I have the bolts soaking up PB blaster at the moment. Looks like I should be able to get under and swap it out at ORA2 height with a couple jack stands for some safety. As mentioned, the SRT bar looks just a tad thicker than the original.

 

[Gunny7]

The rear bar end links if like yours has a 7 mm or 5/16 in backup that you need to handle.
Mine was so tight i broke two 5/16 in sockets.
One 12and one 6 sided.
Bought a impack socket.
Smallest they make seems.
Tough little bugger.

It is 2 mm thicker. Not much but on the outside of the dia so.
You will actually feel it. The rear SRT bar
Was surprised how just a little does.

Will let you know how the front does.
Does look like the fittings are up to size and mire like 15 mm sockets. Not tiny like rears.