2012 3.6 oil change ? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 23 Old 06-12-2013, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
NCJeepGC
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2012 3.6 oil change ?

Gonna perform 1st oil change on my GC, just one question, is it ideal to perform it on level ground or the front end raised, ie ramps? Always raised it on previous vehicles, just curious about the Pentastar motors.

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post #2 of 23 Old 06-12-2013, 10:32 AM
Kev M
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I don't THINK it matters, though it does seem to be designed for level ground (i.e. a lift).

It's surprisngly tight under there - chest pressing on underside of bumper and lower engine cover, but certainly easy enough to do just lying on level ground.

If you've not done it before you might be interested to know that the OEM service literature suggests that you first remove the cartridge filter from the top of the motor and leave that chamber open while you drain the engine oil. I'm guessing they think some vacuum in the system might keep oil from fully draining from the filter housing if it is closed up while draining the oil (leaving behind a little dirty oil).

Be careful with the filter housing cap, it's composite and probably easily cracked. I believe the torque was a low number like 18 ft. lbs., but I can double-check it if you don't have the OEM service PDF for that procedure. Drain bolt torque was slightly higher, I think 20 ft. lbs. (not that I usually use a torque wrench for such minor things, but I think I did last time just cause I had it out for the filter cover).

It's all pretty simple.

EDIT - yup, I double-checked the PDF, those are the torque values if you care to use a wrench.

PM me with an email addy if anyone wants the PDF sent to you, though I'll add I probably downloaded it using a link from a thread on this site (or perhaps it was a google search oil change 3.6L or something like that), so you can also probably find it by searching.
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post #3 of 23 Old 06-12-2013, 10:37 AM
kkreit01
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I always drive mine on the Rhino 12,000 ramps. This cartridge system makes it very nice and easy. I once had a Ford cartridge from the bottom, and it was a PITA.
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post #4 of 23 Old 06-12-2013, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
NCJeepGC
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Yeah I did use the ramps. I likey the cartridge top mounted filter!!!!! Much easier and cleaner than the spin on filters. I read all the literature about the process. Just wasn't sure about raising the front end, but it all worked out. Thanks for the replies.

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post #5 of 23 Old 06-13-2013, 07:32 AM
GaryGC
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You dont need to raise the front end. The drain plug can actually be reached from the passenger side of the car, going at it from behind the front tire. If you have skid plates like I do, keeping the Jeep level seems to keep the oil from dripping on the backside of these plates. As others have suggested, it is a good idea the loosen the filter cap once the oil starts draining. I ususually do the plug first, then the cap. One of the easiest oil changes there is.
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post #6 of 23 Old 06-13-2013, 02:36 PM
Justal13
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Make sure you let your 3.6L GC sit for a few minutes, pull the filler cap, pack some rags around the base of the top-mounted oil filter housing, then lightly "crack" the filter housing and let it sit for another few minutes. This makes sure the oil drains completely out of the filter housing before you take it the rest of the way out. If you don't do this, you risk dumping oil onto the top of your engine. When you fill the oil, do it slowly. The GC 3.6L fill tube backflows easily and you can dump oil down the side of your engine.

Both of these scenarios happened to my GC at two different dealers before I started doing the oil changes myself because I got tired of having to clean up the dealer's mess. When they are given 15 minutes to do an oil change, and often use the cheapest and least-experienced (and often least-caring) help - you get shoddy workmanship. You would think the top-mounted filter would be easier and cleaner. That is not necessarily the case. My wifes GM has a top-mounted filter too. But the filter is recessed into the engine block and just a flat cap is removed for access. No chance for oil to be trapped and leak out. A much better design, IMHO. Best luck.
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post #7 of 23 Old 06-14-2013, 12:20 PM
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Does it take the full 6 quarts stated in the owners manual? Little more? Little less? I ask because I wonder if you just load the 6 quarters and call it a day, or do you have to load 5, measure stick, etc.?
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post #8 of 23 Old 06-14-2013, 01:15 PM
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I did all 6, measured, right on the money.

What is just blowing my mind is I have synthetic in, at about 15000 miles and I checked it last week and it still looking almost new with it still showing it to be at a high level on the stick.

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post #9 of 23 Old 06-14-2013, 02:16 PM
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I do full synthetic too but change it somewhere in between 8K to 10K whenever I have the time to take it to Sears or STS. I will be doing it myself going forward though. For some reason I was always nervous about doing it myself on this truck because of the filter type, but at the prices this places charge that is over. Sounds pretty easy although I don't have a torque wrench.
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post #10 of 23 Old 06-14-2013, 02:20 PM
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The filter is actually the greatest aspect of the entire process. Changing the oil on mine is so easy. Easiest vehicle I have ever done.

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post #11 of 23 Old 06-14-2013, 03:19 PM
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Jackal - yeah, I've noticed that as well. I haven't been running it past the oil life monitor (meaning only running it about 8k miles per change) using M1 EP. But I'm noticing that it has remained visually pretty darn clear and more importantly, hasn't burned a drop between changes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dabitz View Post
For some reason I was always nervous about doing it myself on this truck because of the filter type, but at the prices this places charge that is over. Sounds pretty easy although I don't have a torque wrench.
If you've got the slightest feel for a wrench you don't really NEED a torque wrench for this. Keep in mind that the filter housing is about a tight as a spark plug and not as tight as the drain plug (which most people probably over-tighten also). Basically it's a tad more than snug.

Just don't over-tighten and crack the housing.
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post #12 of 23 Old 06-17-2013, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev M View Post
Jackal - yeah, I've noticed that as well. I haven't been running it past the oil life monitor (meaning only running it about 8k miles per change) using M1 EP. But I'm noticing that it has remained visually pretty darn clear and more importantly, hasn't burned a drop between changes.




If you've got the slightest fee for a wrench you don't really NEED a torque wrench for this. Keep in mind that the filter housing is about a tight as a spark plug and not as tight as the drain plug (which most people probably over-tighten also). Basically it's a tad more than snug.

Just don't over-tighten and crack the housing.
Gotcha!
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post #13 of 23 Old 06-17-2013, 12:37 PM
Kev M
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Ooops that was FEEL for a torque wrench, not "fee" but I guess you understood that.
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post #14 of 23 Old 06-18-2013, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev M View Post
I don't THINK it matters, though it does seem to be designed for level ground (i.e. a lift).

It's surprisngly tight under there - chest pressing on underside of bumper and lower engine cover, but certainly easy enough to do just lying on level ground.

If you've not done it before you might be interested to know that the OEM service literature suggests that you first remove the cartridge filter from the top of the motor and leave that chamber open while you drain the engine oil. I'm guessing they think some vacuum in the system might keep oil from fully draining from the filter housing if it is closed up while draining the oil (leaving behind a little dirty oil).

Be careful with the filter housing cap, it's composite and probably easily cracked. I believe the torque was a low number like 18 ft. lbs., but I can double-check it if you don't have the OEM service PDF for that procedure. Drain bolt torque was slightly higher, I think 20 ft. lbs. (not that I usually use a torque wrench for such minor things, but I think I did last time just cause I had it out for the filter cover).

It's all pretty simple.

EDIT - yup, I double-checked the PDF, those are the torque values if you care to use a wrench.

PM me with an email addy if anyone wants the PDF sent to you, though I'll add I probably downloaded it using a link from a thread on this site (or perhaps it was a google search oil change 3.6L or something like that), so you can also probably find it by searching.

I'm not liking that part about the filter housing cap being composite & likely easy to crack when tightening. Another case of going cheap to save a few cents? I would think metal would have been a better way to go. No?
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post #15 of 23 Old 06-18-2013, 12:34 PM
eibyer
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So has anyone experienced the GC flashing an oil change due message just a little after 3K miles? My first one came up on 6800 miles, the second at ~14K and the third was at 17.5K. The only difference in driving pattern I can think of to trigger the early oil change was our drive to northern az and a long round trip stretch of unpaved roads.
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