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post #1 of 64 Old 06-30-2014, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
josworth
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2010 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Akron
Posts: 467
Yes, I started a new thread....sorry

I figured it would be best to just start a new thread instead of digging up some old ones.

So, the back story. I have a vibration that feels like something like a tire is out of balance or a wheel is bent. It can be felt throughout the vehicle at speeds over 40MPH. It is most evident from 50 to 70 and then is really pronounced through the steering wheel.

All these components have been ruled out through replacement and/or testing.

Tires (replaced twice)
Wheels (thoroughly tested)
Brakes (fully replaced and tested, twice)
Wheel Bearings (tested)
Shocks (replaced)

My dealer has replaced the following:

Rear Drive Shaft
Front Drive Shaft

and most recently and why I am posting, the front half shafts (CV drive axles).

Now, when I got it back this weekend it did feel a little better with the CV shafts replaced, but it still is doing it.

Two things they didn't do and I wish they had. They didn't replace the intermediate shaft when they did the CV shafts. They also didn't tell me that they drove it with the CV shafts out. Maybe they were afraid to damage something? I just figured that they should have seen if eliminating the CV shafts made the vibration go away.

Anybody care to chime in with further suggestions? My dealer knows it isn't totally fixed and is circling back with Chrysler to get their engineering input. This is becoming quite frustrating, but I still maintain that with patience this will get worked out.

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post #2 of 64 Old 06-30-2014, 02:25 PM
lfhoward
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2008 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Morrisville
Posts: 815
I had these symptoms before and they turned out to be the combo of the right CV and intermediate shaft. I don't know which part it was, because I had them both replaced at the same time and it solved the vibration issue... I remember that Ted15 had a similar issue and it turned out to be his intermediate shaft also. I am thinking that replacing the intermediate shaft should be your next logical thing to eliminate.

2008 Liberty Sport 4x4 Automatic
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post #3 of 64 Old 06-30-2014, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
josworth
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Wow, lfhoward, that was quick, thanks. I read those threads and that is one of the things I have been pushing. That is why I was a little frustrated that they didn't replace the intermediate shaft when they were in there. If I recall, Ted15 shows Akron as his location as well. I think I may reach out to him if he doesn't post in here. May bribe him to meet me out somewhere so he can give me his opinion of my Jeep.

Any other places to look or have them look??
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post #4 of 64 Old 06-30-2014, 06:17 PM
tommudd
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2004 KJ Liberty 
 
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Location: Central OH/ Kilimanjaro,Tanzania
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How many miles do you have on it?
The splines on the intermediate wear and even if you do replace the CV it will still vibrate. Problem now is it could be wearing the new CV out. Also curious when someone is in there working why they don't just replace it and be done. I keep extra ones for the KJ in stock in my garage just for that reason. If one of the Ohio gang comes over we can swap it out without waiting

04 KJ 4.5 JBA lift, 03 KJ 2.5 JBA coilovers,
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post #5 of 64 Old 06-30-2014, 07:49 PM
lfhoward
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I wonder if the intermediate shaft part number is the same for the KK and KJ? If so, Tom could hook you up!

2008 Liberty Sport 4x4 Automatic
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post #6 of 64 Old 06-30-2014, 09:39 PM
Ted15
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We have different axles. The old intermediate shaft from mine is stuck inside the CV and they don't want to separate. What dealer did you use?

2010 KK Sport, Detoures Knucklebone & backbone, smittybilt XRC 10, rigid led lights, R/L sliders & rack, cb, EMT2, R/K 15x7, OME, JBA, mopar skids & hitch, headlight covers, 4.10's and TruTracs
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post #7 of 64 Old 07-01-2014, 04:49 AM Thread Starter
josworth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommudd View Post
How many miles do you have on it?
The splines on the intermediate wear and even if you do replace the CV it will still vibrate. Problem now is it could be wearing the new CV out. Also curious when someone is in there working why they don't just replace it and be done. I keep extra ones for the KJ in stock in my garage just for that reason. If one of the Ohio gang comes over we can swap it out without waiting

VERY Interesting Tom... I will definitely share this tidbit. Mine has done it since I bought it last fall. This has been a very long battle trying to get it fixed under the power train warranty. I have had it since 43k miles, now sitting right at 50k.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted15 View Post
We have different axles. The old intermediate shaft from mine is stuck inside the CV and they don't want to separate. What dealer did you use?
Ted, I'm thinking of PM'm you if you would be open to maybe looking at mine and see if you feel what I feel.

I have been working with Falls Chrysler Jeep up on State Rd.
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post #8 of 64 Old 07-01-2014, 07:10 AM
Ted15
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I'll be glad to take a look at it. I've had a few different issues with mine, maybe we can figure it out. If the axle was off balance while the gears were new it may be there. Did they open the diff?
On a positive note, the intermediate axle is about $120 or so.

2010 KK Sport, Detoures Knucklebone & backbone, smittybilt XRC 10, rigid led lights, R/L sliders & rack, cb, EMT2, R/K 15x7, OME, JBA, mopar skids & hitch, headlight covers, 4.10's and TruTracs
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post #9 of 64 Old 07-01-2014, 07:24 AM
tommudd
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Just for S&Gs how did they test the wheel bearings? On these they can feel OK and still have a rough spot in them which would or could cause issues.
Right now though I would be pulling the CVs/ Intermediate shaft out and driving it a couple of days to see if that would help or change anything.

04 KJ 4.5 JBA lift, 03 KJ 2.5 JBA coilovers,
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post #10 of 64 Old 07-01-2014, 08:00 AM
Gageraid
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Location: Branchburg
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I think the next extreme measure you could do is the TSB for the drone/shaking. The cost is $100, but it's NOT reversible.
If it only happens in overdrive, this will solve it. I don't know of any other members that had this done besides me.

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post #11 of 64 Old 07-01-2014, 08:11 AM
Ted15
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I get that but it's not always in overdrive.

2010 KK Sport, Detoures Knucklebone & backbone, smittybilt XRC 10, rigid led lights, R/L sliders & rack, cb, EMT2, R/K 15x7, OME, JBA, mopar skids & hitch, headlight covers, 4.10's and TruTracs
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post #12 of 64 Old 07-01-2014, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
josworth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommudd View Post
Just for S&Gs how did they test the wheel bearings? On these they can feel OK and still have a rough spot in them which would or could cause issues.
Right now though I would be pulling the CVs/ Intermediate shaft out and driving it a couple of days to see if that would help or change anything.
The dealer claimed to test them, I did try and feel for rough spots while doing my shocks as well, but that is hard with it having half shafts.

How much drag should there be when trying to spin the wheel when up on stands?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gageraid View Post
I think the next extreme measure you could do is the TSB for the drone/shaking. The cost is $100, but it's NOT reversible.
If it only happens in overdrive, this will solve it. I don't know of any other members that had this done besides me.
One of the first things we (the service manager and me) did was to mess with the tow button and maintain road speed. The vibration does not change with engine speed / trans mode. It is the same and related to road speed. I recall reading up on that TSB (it is the trans software flash, correct?). I had actually hoped it was that but figured it wasn't.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted15 View Post
I'll be glad to take a look at it. I've had a few different issues with mine, maybe we can figure it out. If the axle was off balance while the gears were new it may be there. Did they open the diff?
On a positive note, the intermediate axle is about $120 or so.
I don't think they opened the diff. In fact, like in my original post, I was really frustrated that they didn't seem to road test it with the CV axles out and the front drive shaft out. They just put the CV axles in to try it I think. I then asked and again was frustrated that they changed the CV axles and not the intermediate shaft. I am supposed to be taking with the service manager today. These are all points I will bring up. He knows I've been saying front axles since we first started on this journey last fall. I would normally take all this stuff apart myself, but I am having this done under the power train warranty.

I will PM you about meeting up somewhere. I would really appreciate it. If nothing else, you can feel what mine does down the highway. Plus, always good to meet new people..
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post #13 of 64 Old 07-01-2014, 10:10 AM
tommudd
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Since they have replaced the front and rear driveshaft's removing the front won't change anything really at this point.
My suggestion to them would be like we've mentioned pulling the CVs and Intermediate shaft out. If after that you still have it then wheel bearings would be next on the list. These things like this can be frustrating to find at times. Had over 14 years of being the go to guy to find little issues/problems when no one else wanted to mess with them.
It does sound like they are trying to work with you somewhat so that is good. Hopefully they will continue.

04 KJ 4.5 JBA lift, 03 KJ 2.5 JBA coilovers,
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post #14 of 64 Old 07-01-2014, 10:57 AM
Gageraid
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Correct on the trans software flash.
Have you gone for a test drive in a different KK yet?

OME lift
Hypertech Max Energy
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post #15 of 64 Old 07-01-2014, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
josworth
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Location: Akron
Posts: 467
I have been PM'ing with Ted15. I hope that he can also drive mine and compare it to what he had going on.

I have driven others that do it and some that don't. I think it is probably more common than expected.

Tom, I agree totally. I was not able to get hold of the service manager today. I hope to talk to him tomorrow. I really want them to pull those shafts back out and drive it without. I did get a call from Chrysler today and they hinted that they wanted to close this case. I told them that in no way was this done... so I sort of roped myself into more trips to the dealer. The bright side is I think the service manager is finally listening to me, and is willing to try my suggestions.

Of course they also have to look at the speed sensors and some other stuff... I am getting a ton of codes almost daily now. It will drive fine for a while then next thing you know I've got the ABS / ESP / 4WD warning light Christmas tree. I think it is related to the amount of stuff they pulled apart, but who knows.. kind of scary some of those. Funny thing is it seems to drive fine and everything works..

My codes are...

Sunday; B210A (system low volt); B210D (battery low volt); U0415 (implausible data from ABS); U0001 (canC bus); B21A1 (couldn't find that one for the life of me); and C1035 (right rear wheel sensor).

Today; U0415 (implausible data from ABS); U0001 (canC bus); U0204 (lost communication with door module); C1035 (right wheel sensor); U0141 (lost communication with body module A)
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