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Unread 12-24-2011, 10:18 PM   #1
mjcougler
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2008 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 32
Removing the rear brake rotors

The dealer told me I needed a rear brake job, so I removed the tire to see for myself. I did not understand why the rear brakes wore out before the fronts. Many other threads confirmed that it has to do with the ABS or traction control applying the rear brakes frequently in snow.

Before attempting this repair, I did a search in this KK Forum with no results. So I'm adding this thread to share my repair frustrations to help others that have done brake repairs, but never on a Liberty.

I used a large C-clamp to slowly press the caliper piston back into the caliper so I could remove the caliper from around the rotor. I have since read in the KJ Forum that I should have loosened the brake reservoir cap so air could easily escape. I was able to remove the caliper by removing the two large caliper bracket mounting bolts. I tied the caliper up out of the way with a large heavy duty tie-wrap (coat hanger wire or parachute cord works good too).

Removing the rear brake rotors was difficult. I live in upstate NY, so 4-years of road salt had corroded where the rotor center hole fits over the axle. Rather than beat it with a bigger hammer, I purchased a large (8-inch) 3-jaw puller from Harbor Freight (on sale for $20). I needed to spray WD-40 (PB Blaster is better) around the rotor center hole and let it sit (soak) for a while. I oiled the puller threads, and I slowly tightened the puller to break the center free. Then, to get the rotor all the way off, I needed to completely loosen the parking brake star adjuster through the opening that had a rubber plug cover. I couldn't feel the adjuster star at first because the tool needed to be inserted down, at an angle. It adjusts just like the old drum brake star adjusters. If you turn it one way and the rotor won't turn anymore, turn it the other way (quite a way) to completely loosen the parking brake pads away from the rusty inner surface.

I seldom use the Emergency brake, so the entire parking brake rotor surface was severely rusted.

Tomorrow I will remove the old brake pads from the caliper. I intend to clean all the mating/rubbing surfaces with a toothbrush and brake Klean. This is necessary to completely clean where the ears on the pads are designed to move as the brakes operate and wear. I also purchased a new brake pad clip kit in case the clips are too corroded or won't clean up. I also like to use brake caliper lube or copper anti-seize paste. This is necessary to to ensure the calipers or brakes move or float freely without causing corrosion or excessive brake pad wear.

I'll try to take pictures as I disassemble and repair the other side.

Hope this helps.

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Unread 12-25-2011, 08:35 AM   #2
otlip
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Thanks for the info. Perhaps you could post a few photos. Is there anything we should know about using shims or dieletric grease?

Rich
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Unread 01-04-2012, 02:09 PM   #3
louder1
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I feel your pain, welcome to my world. I had to replace the rotors in the rear and buggered up the holding clips for the E-brake. They pass through the backing plate that can only be removed by removing the axle (awesome). I didn't want to remove the axle so I flattened out the buggered up holes and used a small washers that I coated with rustoluem to keep the clips from falling through into the rotor. Which did happen and needed to replace the wheel sensor on one side too, thank God those are cheap. My problem was similiar to yours in that the e-brake pads were grabbing the rotor and preventing it from coming off.
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Unread 01-04-2012, 03:27 PM   #4
Dave_B
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I did shocks and brakes about a week ago. Took about 4 hours . Didn't want to wait for penetrant to work so a couple of blast with a air hammer on the center hub broke the rust loose. The spring clips should come with your brake pad set. Just put the new ones in. You should have left the caliper mount on the hub, it will make taking the pads out easier.

Dave
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Unread 01-04-2012, 05:24 PM   #5
jblantonrandel
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In the process of relpacing the brakes and noticed the rotor was bad...when I went to replace the rotor it had both disk and drum brakes on the rear? Does this seem curious to anyone else? Are the drum brakes diabled? Any idea why brakes may have gotten so bad on one side vs the other?
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Unread 01-05-2012, 05:33 AM   #6
louder1
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jblantonrandel, had the same problem on one side the caliper slide pin (lower) was frozen/rusted so the caliper was stuck. The drum brake you are talking about is the E-brake/Parking Brake. The caliper should move in and out in relation to the rotor. I was able to torch off the rusted pin and clean out the rust but I opted to buy a new slide pin set and bracket ($40-$50). Need to use High temp lube on those pins.
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Unread 05-16-2013, 06:33 PM   #7
captpetey
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@louder1- i am having a hell of a time finding a new bracket for the rear brake caliper (2009 liberty). my lower slide is frozen as well, and i was hoping to just buy a new bracket and pins. front brackets are everywhere... does anyone have a part # for a rear brake caliper bracket?
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Unread 05-22-2013, 07:18 AM   #8
louder1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captpetey View Post
@louder1- i am having a hell of a time finding a new bracket for the rear brake caliper (2009 liberty). my lower slide is frozen as well, and i was hoping to just buy a new bracket and pins. front brackets are everywhere... does anyone have a part # for a rear brake caliper bracket?
Hey Captpetey,

it was difficult to find as it is listed in "rear suspension" and sub category "brake components" I bought mine at dodgeparts.com

The part is called "adapter back" you will probably need new pins too

this is for a 2008 but should help you.. Good Luck..

Adapter Back
Make: Jeep
Model: Liberty
Section: REAR SUSPENSION
Category: Brake components
Sub-Category: Adapter


68003775AA

1

$27.72

$27.72



Pin
Make: Jeep
Model: Liberty
Section: REAR SUSPENSION
Category: Brake components
Sub-Category: Caliper


68003777AA

3

$7.98

$23.94
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Unread 11-01-2013, 11:13 AM   #9
Eagle112199
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Join Date: Jan 2012
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I just replaced mine last weekend and had no problems ('08) but I did apparently mess up the ABS sensor. Guess it got road grime into it and now it is sending a bad signal and I have to clean it. Anyone else have this problem or now how to solve it? Take out the sensor, break cleaner and clean off the magnet, let dry and replace is what I thought.
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Unread 11-01-2013, 06:33 PM   #10
JeepN4KC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by otlip View Post
Thanks for the info. Perhaps you could post a few photos. Is there anything we should know about using shims or dieletric grease?

Rich
Shims or dielectric grease?

Brakes are brakes - nothing special about KK brakes that would require shims or dielectric grease. Biggest thing is to remember to let loose the parking brake before starting and a good dead blow mallet if the rotors are seized.

I'm on android so I can't tell where posters are from but these posts look like an XJ section what with rust problems like described. I wouldn't think an '08 or newer would be so crapped up.
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Unread 11-16-2013, 01:52 PM   #11
Busch2fan
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I just replaced the rear disc pads on an '08 Liberty. I read all this stuff first so i was prepared for some difficulty. The most work was hammering the wheels off. After that everything went smoothly. Some of the guides in the calipers were broke so i bought new clips. I did it in a buddys garage with all the tools anyone could ever need. Start to finish was 2hrs and that included running to AtuoZone.
I cleaned up all the hubs so put anti-seize on to make it easier if I have to change a tire.
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