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-   -   Liberty wiring harness: switched interior aux power wire? (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f292/liberty-wiring-harness-switched-interior-aux-power-wire-1567370/)

Mattyvac 08-26-2013 03:14 PM

Liberty wiring harness: switched interior aux power wire?
 
Which wire inside the liberty on the wiring harness (preferably on top by the mirror/roof lamps) is the interior aux switched power that is always on only when the key is turned to AUX ON or ENGINE ON?

My radar detector is tapped into the 12v red wire for the lighter socket. Is there another one somewhere on a different fuse on another line?

lfhoward 08-26-2013 05:35 PM

Did you know you could move the M7 fuse in the fuse box to make the lighter/power outlet come on with the engine, rather than being on all the time? That would solve your issue without needing to rewire anything.

Mattyvac 08-26-2013 07:09 PM

My cig lighter is actually always like that...it only turns on with the engine. I noticed this because it wont charge my phone with the car off which sucks!

_benjammin 08-26-2013 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mattyvac (Post 15839642)
My cig lighter is actually always like that...it only turns on with the engine. I noticed this because it wont charge my phone with the car off which sucks!

So switch the fuse.

Mattyvac 08-26-2013 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _benjammin (Post 15839774)
So switch the fuse.

It sucks...but I dont want it to stop doing that because my radar detector is tapped into that line.

If I could have the cig lighter work while the car is off but find ANOTHER aux 12v line somewhere in the dash to tap into...now that's a different story.

WhiteRider 08-26-2013 08:28 PM

I have my my headlight "brows" hooked up the way you are trying to figure out. I think I have a post on here that included pics. But what you need to do is:

Put the fuse in m7 to always on position. Then tap into the single open plug in the m7 fuse location, and have a wire that goes to a switch in your interior that controls whatever you want powered that you won't need while the key is not in the ignition. The negative wire can be run to any good ground location. The switch would actually be optional, but I wanted to have full control of whether the led brows were on or off after the key is in.

End result is lighter is always on (you risk draining battery if you forget anything plugged into it). And whatever getting power from the single fuse is only on when key is in.

Sent from my White Samsung

Mattyvac 08-27-2013 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiteRider (Post 15840052)
I have my my headlight "brows" hooked up the way you are trying to figure out. I think I have a post on here that included pics. But what you need to do is:

Put the fuse in m7 to always on position. Then tap into the single open plug in the m7 fuse location, and have a wire that goes to a switch in your interior that controls whatever you want powered that you won't need while the key is not in the ignition. The negative wire can be run to any good ground location. The switch would actually be optional, but I wanted to have full control of whether the led brows were on or off after the key is in.

End result is lighter is always on (you risk draining battery if you forget anything plugged into it). And whatever getting power from the single fuse is only on when key is in.

Sent from my White Samsung

Couldn't I just leave the current fuse where it is an ADD an additional fuse with raised wire lead to the M7 slot for always on power with an inline switch to control it?

What I'm getting from some of these comments is that the M7 fuse socket is basically an unused ALWAYS on socket?

WhiteRider 08-27-2013 05:49 PM

The m7 fuse location has three slots, rather than the usual two. Two positives, with a negative in the middle. If you want the lighter to always have power for charging cell phone etc when keys are not in the ignition, and something such as radar, or in my case the led lights to only turn on when keys are in ignition, you need to get the power from the m7 fuse slot closest to the drivers front wheel. I tried to attach pics from my phone, but apparently they are too big. You might find em on skypath, under WhiteRider8?

Sent from my White Samsung

Mattyvac 08-28-2013 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiteRider (Post 15843276)
The m7 fuse location has three slots, rather than the usual two. Two positives, with a negative in the middle. If you want the lighter to always have power for charging cell phone etc when keys are not in the ignition, and something such as radar, or in my case the led lights to only turn on when keys are in ignition, you need to get the power from the m7 fuse slot closest to the drivers front wheel. I tried to attach pics from my phone, but apparently they are too big. You might find em on skypath, under WhiteRider8?

Sent from my White Samsung

Skypath isn't searchable so i can't find your username

WhiteRider 08-28-2013 08:46 PM

Finally made it to my pc. Here are some pics I took of the final product:


http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/5...owersupply.jpg
1) Locations to attach power (M7 fuse slot closest to drivers wheel well) and ground (hard to see, bolt below fuse box). Note where I made the little "notch" in the fuse box for the power to get in to the fuse box. It is important that you keep the fuse box ABSOLUTELY moisture free, for obvious reason. Since having taken this photo, for extra measure I have added a rubber grommet at that spot so it completely sealed when closed.


http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/5...ndsplitter.jpg
2) In my case I knew I would be likely adding things down the road, so I put an inline fuse on the power coming from m7, and ran the power to a 12v splitter with fuses built into each input, and dip switches (for extra-extra control!!!). The ground from the splitter is what is attached to the ground location in pic#1.


http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/725/12vsplitter.jpg
3) A little better view of the 12v splitter, ...ready and waiting for up to 5 more highly sophisticated top secret weapons. It is difficult to see where the yellow/green wire actually go but: ground/green goes to negative on led lights. power/yellow goes through grommet in engine, to interior switch, then comes back out to the power on the led light.


http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/8...chescenter.jpg
4) Location of interior switches. Blue switch lights up when the LED's are turned on. The red switch already has wires that go through the grommet to the engine so I didn't have to keep ripping my dash apart when I wanted to finally connect something, but is still unused at this point.


http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/3471/l9bn.jpg
5) My super-dope Lib after some mudding, showing off the end result. :thumbsup:


I'm not sure it is possible to explain this in any more detail? :rtft:

If anybody can't figure this out now, ...you never will. :nono:

lfhoward 08-29-2013 08:43 PM

Nice work, WhiteRider. Now what would you like to add to that red switch? Ejection seat? Oil slick? Machine guns in the fog light positions? :D

WhiteRider 08-29-2013 10:32 PM

...Can never be too prepared.

I'm thinking it its going to be interior accent lighting, or one of those long led flood light bars. I also have Angel eyes that have been sitting in a box for a while, but I'm not sure if those would be to "******" with the brows.
Still trying to decide on bull bar, or if I will fork over the dough for a real bumper. What I'm really working towards at the moment though is re-gearing to 4.10's

Sent from my White Samsung

WhiteRider 08-29-2013 10:33 PM

Apparently we can't say
D
O
U
C
H
E
?

Sent from my White Samsung

Poncherello 09-01-2013 08:40 PM

Whiterider - Nice write up and nice looking Lib

mayadog 01-27-2014 08:10 AM

nice.


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