Jeep Liberty KK - Pros/Cons - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 21 Old 09-18-2017, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
CaptainStringer
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Jeep Liberty KK - Pros/Cons

Hello,

I have found a couple 2012 Libertys that I am considering for my fiance. She seems to like the look of them as do I. I have been on various forums with all of my vehicles for the past 7 years so I am well aware that you will read more negative comments than positive since most people come here wanting to find answers to their issues. What I am asking for is what the people of the forum like & dislike about the Liberty. Any option you wish you had? Anything you wish you didn't have?

I did read a little about the MPGs being kinda bad but it is a Jeep afterall. I read about changing the plugs every 30k miles, adding a CAI, and Synthetic Oil. My fiance drives about 40 miles one way to work but I want here to have 4wd due to her having to go through the Appalachian Mountains in the winter.

Anyhow, thanks in advance for any info that can help us out!

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post #2 of 21 Old 09-18-2017, 03:13 PM
lfhoward
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KK pros:
- A beast in snow and off-road with A/T tires. Recommend ditching the tires it came with for Cooper Discoverer A/T3 or equivalent
- Has a real 4wd transfer case with low range. Hard to get it stuck.
- Can be easily lifted 2" with OME kit (see JeepinByAl.com) for a much better ride than stock for about $800 in parts. Also nets just enough extra ground clearance if you ever take it on trails.
- Much more civilized highway ride and interior than a JK and not as expensive as a WK2 or a JK.
- Good cargo space in the back. Seats fold flat.
- No roll bars to create blind spots (as a JK has)
- 3.7L V6 is pretty reliable. Transfer case is solid. AW4 transmission is old school, not super efficient or complex but they last.

KK cons:
- Low gas mileage as you indicated. Average 12-13 in the city, 20-21 highway.
- Not super powerful but gets the job done. No V8 or Diesel available in the US.
- KK's lifted 3-4" or more tend to blow steering racks on challenging terrain. (Mine has been fine but I'm not rock crawling with it.)
- While nice, the sunroofs tend to leak and sky slider sliding mechanism tends to break. Avoid these in favor of a solid roof.
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post #3 of 21 Old 09-18-2017, 03:18 PM
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In terms of DIY service, you can do most things yourself. Spark plugs, air filter, etc. are easy to change. Lots of room under the hood makes stuff easy to see and work on. The oil filter location is a bit of a PITA but is doable. The auto transmission fluid has a cap that says dealer only. It's about the only thing I wouldn't attempt myself but some have and they've been fine.
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post #4 of 21 Old 09-19-2017, 12:05 AM
Bmxer524
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I commuted ~70 miles of pretty much all highway and was burning through about a 1/4 tank a trip. It will swallow gas. I averaged about 17mpg on that commute, ymmv. Just remember it's approximately a 20 gallon tank that your future mrs will be filling up every 3-4 days. Anyways on to my list...

Pros:
-Heavy truck that'll take a beating
-Pretty good ride (I also disagree with lfhoward about it riding better than a JK. I find my sisters stock 16 JKU rides just as good as my KK, maybe even a little better than when it was stock)
-The motor is pretty well proven. Some have head issues or valve issues but it seems to be pretty rare. I've only seen about 5-10 with issues on my 6 years of KK forums
-Tranny is pretty proven to last as well (especially if kept stock). It's the same 4 speed auto found in TJs and 3.8 powered JK/JKUs
-You can actually lift it and keep an alignment and good ride
-Pretty easy to work on and do maintenance on
-Little to no blind spots (again, I disagree with lfhoward comparing it to a JK. The only blind spots that has is the rear view because of the tires and rear headrests if you don't fold them down/remove them)
-Very easy to drive and handle. Both on road and off road, side streets and highway
-Lots of cargo room and the rear seats fold flat (almost as big as a full size bed, I'm 5'10 and can sleep comfortably with the seats down, can even sleep with my fiancÚ who is 5'7 and have plenty of room)
-Great off-road capability, you do need a decent set of tires though. The factory Goodyear SRAs are trash

Cons:
-Gas mileage. It's atrocious.
-It's severely under powered. She's a dog. Yea it's a Jeep, but some pep would be appreciated
-The tranny. Yes I said it's proven when kept stock, but that doesn't mean it's good. Torque converter likes to whine in 1st, it quiets down 2-4th. Reverse is almost useless off-road or backing up hills. It'll shudder and bog a little. Just too tall of a gear with too little power and it doesn't get better with larger tires.
-Electrical issues can be a big problem. They're more common in 08s, but some newer years get hiccups too.
-Sunroof and skysliders tend to leak. The sunroof is usually a clogged drain. Skyslider is a skyslider. That said I love my skyslider. I just can't run her through a car wash or put a pressure washer on the roof.
-Lifting can get expensive. Under 3" isn't bad, over gets pricey.
-Larger tires (over a 31") and not regearing starts to kill the tranny
-Running large tires is expensive and next to impossible. 31s will fit with 2.5" of lift, 32s need gears, 3.5-4" lift, and some love in the front wheel wells
-Some have steering rack problems with 32+" tires and 3.5+" of lift with heavy wheeling
-The aftermarket is pretty limited. This includes bumpers, armor, power adders etc
-Power adders tend to do little as the ecu eventually adjusts itself to run similar to stock
-There's no ecu tuner for 11-12s as the programming changed and nobody wants to break the code

That's about it off the top of my head. Probably some more out there. As for options to make sure you get. Well that's up to you, but there are a few you can't add later. So basically anything roof related can't be added without major money spent, turning a 4x2 into a 4x4 isn't happening (computers make things next to impossible), and adding EVIC (the whole dash computer with the compass and vehicle settings). Everything else can be added later I believe.

It's a great vehicle, just has its quirks. Personally I love and hate the KK. I hate the ifs and the lack of power. I really wanted a JKU, but this is what I could afford at the time. It's probably saved me some in the long run, but who knows? Honestly for the money I have invested in this thing I could have a pretty nicely built JKU on 37s and be on my way saving for a LS and won tons... Instead I have a KK lifted 3.5" with adjustable coilovers and 31s that'll soon be getting regeared, Detroit truetracs (I have no need for lockers in this Jeep), and 32s. Oh and my wedding is almost paid off and that's a year away.
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post #5 of 21 Old 09-19-2017, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lfhoward View Post
KK pros:
- A beast in snow and off-road with A/T tires. Recommend ditching the tires it came with for Cooper Discoverer A/T3 or equivalent
- Has a real 4wd transfer case with low range. Hard to get it stuck.
- Can be easily lifted 2" with OME kit (see JeepinByAl.com) for a much better ride than stock for about $800 in parts. Also nets just enough extra ground clearance if you ever take it on trails.
- Much more civilized highway ride and interior than a JK and not as expensive as a WK2 or a JK.
- Good cargo space in the back. Seats fold flat.
- No roll bars to create blind spots (as a JK has)
- 3.7L V6 is pretty reliable. Transfer case is solid. AW4 transmission is old school, not super efficient or complex but they last.

KK cons:
- Low gas mileage as you indicated. Average 12-13 in the city, 20-21 highway.
- Not super powerful but gets the job done. No V8 or Diesel available in the US.
- KK's lifted 3-4" or more tend to blow steering racks on challenging terrain. (Mine has been fine but I'm not rock crawling with it.)
- While nice, the sunroofs tend to leak and sky slider sliding mechanism tends to break. Avoid these in favor of a solid roof.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lfhoward View Post
In terms of DIY service, you can do most things yourself. Spark plugs, air filter, etc. are easy to change. Lots of room under the hood makes stuff easy to see and work on. The oil filter location is a bit of a PITA but is doable. The auto transmission fluid has a cap that says dealer only. It's about the only thing I wouldn't attempt myself but some have and they've been fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmxer524 View Post
I commuted ~70 miles of pretty much all highway and was burning through about a 1/4 tank a trip. It will swallow gas. I averaged about 17mpg on that commute, ymmv. Just remember it's approximately a 20 gallon tank that your future mrs will be filling up every 3-4 days. Anyways on to my list...

Pros:
-Heavy truck that'll take a beating
-Pretty good ride (I also disagree with lfhoward about it riding better than a JK. I find my sisters stock 16 JKU rides just as good as my KK, maybe even a little better than when it was stock)
-The motor is pretty well proven. Some have head issues or valve issues but it seems to be pretty rare. I've only seen about 5-10 with issues on my 6 years of KK forums
-Tranny is pretty proven to last as well (especially if kept stock). It's the same 4 speed auto found in TJs and 3.8 powered JK/JKUs
-You can actually lift it and keep an alignment and good ride
-Pretty easy to work on and do maintenance on
-Little to no blind spots (again, I disagree with lfhoward comparing it to a JK. The only blind spots that has is the rear view because of the tires and rear headrests if you don't fold them down/remove them)
-Very easy to drive and handle. Both on road and off road, side streets and highway
-Lots of cargo room and the rear seats fold flat (almost as big as a full size bed, I'm 5'10 and can sleep comfortably with the seats down, can even sleep with my fiancÚ who is 5'7 and have plenty of room)
-Great off-road capability, you do need a decent set of tires though. The factory Goodyear SRAs are trash

Cons:
-Gas mileage. It's atrocious.
-It's severely under powered. She's a dog. Yea it's a Jeep, but some pep would be appreciated
-The tranny. Yes I said it's proven when kept stock, but that doesn't mean it's good. Torque converter likes to whine in 1st, it quiets down 2-4th. Reverse is almost useless off-road or backing up hills. It'll shudder and bog a little. Just too tall of a gear with too little power and it doesn't get better with larger tires.
-Electrical issues can be a big problem. They're more common in 08s, but some newer years get hiccups too.
-Sunroof and skysliders tend to leak. The sunroof is usually a clogged drain. Skyslider is a skyslider. That said I love my skyslider. I just can't run her through a car wash or put a pressure washer on the roof.
-Lifting can get expensive. Under 3" isn't bad, over gets pricey.
-Larger tires (over a 31") and not regearing starts to kill the tranny
-Running large tires is expensive and next to impossible. 31s will fit with 2.5" of lift, 32s need gears, 3.5-4" lift, and some love in the front wheel wells
-Some have steering rack problems with 32+" tires and 3.5+" of lift with heavy wheeling
-The aftermarket is pretty limited. This includes bumpers, armor, power adders etc
-Power adders tend to do little as the ecu eventually adjusts itself to run similar to stock
-There's no ecu tuner for 11-12s as the programming changed and nobody wants to break the code

That's about it off the top of my head. Probably some more out there. As for options to make sure you get. Well that's up to you, but there are a few you can't add later. So basically anything roof related can't be added without major money spent, turning a 4x2 into a 4x4 isn't happening (computers make things next to impossible), and adding EVIC (the whole dash computer with the compass and vehicle settings). Everything else can be added later I believe.

It's a great vehicle, just has its quirks. Personally I love and hate the KK. I hate the ifs and the lack of power. I really wanted a JKU, but this is what I could afford at the time. It's probably saved me some in the long run, but who knows? Honestly for the money I have invested in this thing I could have a pretty nicely built JKU on 37s and be on my way saving for a LS and won tons... Instead I have a KK lifted 3.5" with adjustable coilovers and 31s that'll soon be getting regeared, Detroit truetracs (I have no need for lockers in this Jeep), and 32s. Oh and my wedding is almost paid off and that's a year away.
Thanks for all of the info guys! I think that the KK may be a good fit afterall from this feedback. She really wants an all white JKU Sahara or Rubricon but when it comes down to the all mighty dollar, we are back on the KK lol. As far as any modifications, it would probably stay mostly stock aside from doing a small lift (2" would be fine) and slightly larger A/T tires. I had the Cooper Discoverer ATP on a previous truck and really liked those tires. I will keep in mind not to go over 31" unless I want to drop the money and regear but chances are, I won't want to do that. Other than that, maybe some smaller mods would be done like upgrading the lighting to LED, tinting the windows, etc. She isn't going to be taking on any trails so I really don't have a need for a winch or aftermarket bumper unless I just wanted it for the ascetics.

My fiance currently has a 2007 Honda Accord which surprisingly gets terrible gas mileage from what I would think it would get. After hand calculations, she is getting roughly 21 MPG highway... I don't know why it is that low. My 2016 F-150 gets better than that. If you are saying the the KK will get about 21 MPG highway then it wouldn't be that big of a trade off fuel mileage wise from what she has now. Just having the 4wd will be a huge plus in case she gets in a spot where she needs it. Having a good solid 4wd system, like you guys say it has, gives me piece of mind for her.

So far the big option to try to stay away from seems to be the Moon Roof or Sky Slider. I did some more research after I posted this yesterday and found the Sky Slider. I can see how that would be a pain if it failed and probably costly. At the same time... it seems so nice! lol. Personally I love having a moon roof. I have the Twin Panel Panoramic Roof in my F-150 so basically my entire roof is glass with the front half being a working moon roof. My fiance rarely drives with the windows down so I don't think the Sky Slider would be a necessity in her book. In the end it would probably be beneficial for us to find one without one so we have one less feature to go wrong on us and cost us money.

Right now, I have found 7 KKs that fit the bill within about 200 miles of me. All of them are 2012s except for one being a 2011. The current mileage ranges from 30k - 50k miles. Is there an average of how long the KKs last before having to do an overhaul on the motor/tranny? I know it depends on up keep and how it is taken care of. Do you think I would be able to get to 150k miles or even 200k if I had to hold onto it that long?

Thanks again
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post #6 of 21 Old 09-19-2017, 07:52 AM
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Bmx, that's an awesome list you put together. This should be a sticky, considering how often the question is asked.

I think it's totally cool you disagree with me about certain aspects of the the JK. I test drove a KK and JK back in '11 when I was on the market for a lightly used Jeep. I know they've improved since then, especially now that they have the Pentastar V6 instead of the old 3.8L minivan powerplant. If they were closer to the price point as the KK, that might have made it a harder decision! The JK is an amazing vehicle and if you gave me one I wouldn't turn it down. Lol. :-)

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post #7 of 21 Old 09-19-2017, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lfhoward View Post
Bmx, that's an awesome list you put together. This should be a sticky, considering how often the question is asked.

I think it's totally cool you disagree with me about certain aspects of the the JK. I test drove a KK and JK back in '11 when I was on the market for a lightly used Jeep. I know they've improved since then, especially now that they have the Pentastar V6 instead of the old 3.8L minivan powerplant. If they were closer to the price point as the KK, that might have made it a harder decision! The JK is an amazing vehicle and if you gave me one I wouldn't turn it down. Lol. :-)
I love my sister's 3.6 JKU. I wish I would have had the extra few grand/hundred a month for a JKU. Would have been a 3.8 model, but that just makes it easier to LS swap lol. I like the ride more too, maybe it's just how you feel more sway in bumps that I like, idk.

Captain, I have no idea how that Accord isn't getting at least 30mpg on the highway. If you're seeing 21 now, then the KK won't be too bad of a hit. Depending on where you live, you'll see about that or a little worse. The best I ever saw was 22mpg when stock. That was pure interstate in NJ. My trips to upstate NY normally saw about 17-18mpg. With the lift I average about 15-16, best I've seen since was 18mpg. Keep in mind this is all flat interstate. The minute I mixed in city driving it plummeted to 12-14mpg when stock.
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post #8 of 21 Old 09-19-2017, 07:17 PM
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So far the big option to try to stay away from seems to be the Moon Roof or Sky Slider. I did some more research after I posted this yesterday and found the Sky Slider. I can see how that would be a pain if it failed and probably costly. At the same time... it seems so nice! lol. Personally I love having a moon roof. I have the Twin Panel Panoramic Roof in my F-150 so basically my entire roof is glass with the front half being a working moon roof.

Right now, I have found 7 KKs that fit the bill within about 200 miles of me. All of them are 2012s except for one being a 2011. The current mileage ranges from 30k - 50k miles. Is there an average of how long the KKs last before having to do an overhaul on the motor/tranny? I know it depends on up keep and how it is taken care of. Do you think I would be able to get to 150k miles or even 200k if I had to hold onto it that long?
No problems yet with my sunroof at 30k. The forums make it sound manageable (clogged drain).

Both JK and KK have issues with HVAC actuators. If you take it to the dealership then you'll pay a lot for them to remove the box. Some have been able to change their own actuators, so long as that's the only problem . . .

Both JK and KK have issues with parking brake handles (another big $$ repair at the dealership).

Some electrical gremlins that are usually fixable after a certain amount of frustration.

The engine and tranny will last forever, but all the other stuff can be frustrating or costly, depending on your skills . . .

JK has a softer ride quality but KK has more precise IFS handling.

If you buy something 3-4 years old, then you can still get a factory Maxcare warranty, but they've been raising the prices on these. If you're comfortable with an HVAC vacuum, then no worries . . .
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post #9 of 21 Old 09-20-2017, 06:46 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bmxer524 View Post
I love my sister's 3.6 JKU. I wish I would have had the extra few grand/hundred a month for a JKU. Would have been a 3.8 model, but that just makes it easier to LS swap lol. I like the ride more too, maybe it's just how you feel more sway in bumps that I like, idk.

Captain, I have no idea how that Accord isn't getting at least 30mpg on the highway. If you're seeing 21 now, then the KK won't be too bad of a hit. Depending on where you live, you'll see about that or a little worse. The best I ever saw was 22mpg when stock. That was pure interstate in NJ. My trips to upstate NY normally saw about 17-18mpg. With the lift I average about 15-16, best I've seen since was 18mpg. Keep in mind this is all flat interstate. The minute I mixed in city driving it plummeted to 12-14mpg when stock.
Her Accord has roughly 150k miles on it right now and is the first vehicle she has had since she got her license. It was wrecked before she got it and was wrecked again at the beginning of this year when she hit a deer. I'm thinking that there may be something dealing with that which is causing the poor MPGs. I just don't have the time or money to throw at a car that is worth $2,000 if I am lucky. I'd rather just keep it as a beater car and run the doors off of it to keep the miles off of my truck when I can. Her commute would be all highway. It is a 5 minute drive to the I-70 from our house where she would get on for about 20 miles and then onto the PA Turnpike from New Stanton to Somerset. Even if she was getting less than 21 MPG with the KK, I'd still be alright with the hit for the trade off of a much newer and safer vehicle along with 4wd.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pine_Cat View Post
No problems yet with my sunroof at 30k. The forums make it sound manageable (clogged drain).

Both JK and KK have issues with HVAC actuators. If you take it to the dealership then you'll pay a lot for them to remove the box. Some have been able to change their own actuators, so long as that's the only problem . . .

Both JK and KK have issues with parking brake handles (another big $$ repair at the dealership).

Some electrical gremlins that are usually fixable after a certain amount of frustration.

The engine and tranny will last forever, but all the other stuff can be frustrating or costly, depending on your skills . . .

JK has a softer ride quality but KK has more precise IFS handling.

If you buy something 3-4 years old, then you can still get a factory Maxcare warranty, but they've been raising the prices on these. If you're comfortable with an HVAC vacuum, then no worries . . .
I am moderately mechanically inclined - to an extent - and could fix some stuff. I do have a couple of friends who are much more mechanically inclined who could always lend a helping hand if I needed.

A couple of the KKs I have found are Certified Used which would have a nice warranty with them. Anything in particular to look for when it comes to the HVAC actuators?
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post #10 of 21 Old 09-20-2017, 07:28 AM
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I can see why you want her to have 4wd. That section of the turnpike from New Stanton to Somerset can be pretty dicey in winter. I suggest looking for a KK with the SelecTrac transfer case. It has the advantage of being able to be in 4wd continuously if you want. Command Trac, the more common T-case, can be only used on slippery surfaces. That means you have to flip the 4wd on and off if the paved road surface alternates between dry and snow drifts. With running that curvy, snowy section of highway every day in winter, SelecTrac would give you both more peace of mind.
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post #11 of 21 Old 09-20-2017, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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I can see why you want her to have 4wd. That section of the turnpike from New Stanton to Somerset can be pretty dicey in winter. I suggest looking for a KK with the SelecTrac transfer case. It has the advantage of being able to be in 4wd continuously if you want. Command Trac, the more common T-case, can be only used on slippery surfaces. That means you have to flip the 4wd on and off if the paved road surface alternates between dry and snow drifts. With running that curvy, snowy section of highway every day in winter, SelecTrac would give you both more peace of mind.
Thank you! This is exactly why I like going to forums to do research and get some knowledge off of people who are familiar with the vehicle. I didn't realize that was an option. I kinda take it as the SelecTrac is pretty much 4X4 Auto that would kick in if it detects wheel slippage? Besides seeing a window sticker, is there a way to tell the difference between the transfer cases?

------------------------------------

Edit: I answered myself. I see that it is 4wd Auto and that the way I can tell the difference is by looking at the selector to see what it says. If says 4wd Lock it is the Command Trac. If it is 4wd Auto, it is the SelecTrac. Of the 7 I have my eye on now, only 1 appears to have SelecTrac based off of the pictures I can see.

Thanks again everyone!

Last edited by CaptainStringer; 09-20-2017 at 01:09 PM.
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post #12 of 21 Old 09-20-2017, 06:06 PM
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Exactly! You got it. Look for AUTO rather than LOCK.

The Command Trac T-case is a favorite of the off roading crowd, but the SelecTrac option may make more sense for your wife's daily commute over the mountain.

Both T-cases have 4-Lo so it is really hard to get the Jeep stuck.
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post #13 of 21 Old 09-20-2017, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptainStringer View Post
I am moderately mechanically inclined - to an extent - and could fix some stuff. I do have a couple of friends who are much more mechanically inclined who could always lend a helping hand if I needed.

A couple of the KKs I have found are Certified Used which would have a nice warranty with them. Anything in particular to look for when it comes to the HVAC actuators?
The full-time transfer case gives you a switch (the one that says "AUTO") so you get your choice of rear-wheel drive or full-time four. Also, the Selec-Trac's electronic limited-slip functionality ("BLD") is incredibly effective, more so than any mechanical limited-slip differential.

I think every Daimler-Chrysler vehicle is going to need the blend-door actuator replaced frequently. On my Liberty, it started acting up at 25,000 miles, on my '08 Sebring convertible, completely failed at 21,000 miles, on my '06 TJ, started acting up at 46,000 miles.

The first time you look at the actuator, on the driver side of the center stack, you think "how am I going to get my hands in there to replace that." But the more you look at it, the more you can see that it's doable without pulling the entire HVAC assembly.

Here's a thread started by a JK guy who was able to replace his own actuator, and that solved his problem:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/2...issue-4159666/

So, it looks like you can fix half of your HVAC actuator problems at home by replacing the actuator with a short-handled screwdriver. As long as the box does not need to be removed to lube the levers . . .


Not to scare you, but here's a thread started by a KK guy who had all sorts of HVAC actuator problems, so he needed dealership service:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f292/...pdate-3958538/

He eventually gave it up because of engine problems:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f292/...stion-3985577/

Like bmxer said, it's pretty rare to encounter those kinds of engine problems these days.

Here's another thread about HVAC:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f292/...uator-4018273/

I'm getting a bit worried because what if the entire box needs to be removed to fix the levers? I haven't personally worked with a semi-pro HVAC vacuum set, so I'm afraid it will cost a lot or I'll mess something up - basic fear of the unknown.

I love my Liberty, though, so I'll just cross that bridge when I come to it . . .

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2009 Kia Sorento (H&R springs, ToyTec strut spacers, OldManEmu shocks/struts, skinny 31s)
2006 TJ budget LCG prerunner (see profile)
2006 Chevy Trailblazer (SWB-EXT lift, rear LJ Nth 4.5" springs, skinny 32s)
1998 Dodge Durango (SuspensionMaxx and Roadmaster lifts, rear Truetrac, skinny 32s)
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post #14 of 21 Old 09-21-2017, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
CaptainStringer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pine_Cat View Post
The full-time transfer case gives you a switch (the one that says "AUTO") so you get your choice of rear-wheel drive or full-time four. Also, the Selec-Trac's electronic limited-slip functionality ("BLD") is incredibly effective, more so than any mechanical limited-slip differential.

I think every Daimler-Chrysler vehicle is going to need the blend-door actuator replaced frequently. On my Liberty, it started acting up at 25,000 miles, on my '08 Sebring convertible, completely failed at 21,000 miles, on my '06 TJ, started acting up at 46,000 miles.

The first time you look at the actuator, on the driver side of the center stack, you think "how am I going to get my hands in there to replace that." But the more you look at it, the more you can see that it's doable without pulling the entire HVAC assembly.

Here's a thread started by a JK guy who was able to replace his own actuator, and that solved his problem:

So, it looks like you can fix half of your HVAC actuator problems at home by replacing the actuator with a short-handled screwdriver. As long as the box does not need to be removed to lube the levers . . .


Not to scare you, but here's a thread started by a KK guy who had all sorts of HVAC actuator problems, so he needed dealership service:

He eventually gave it up because of engine problems:

Like bmxer said, it's pretty rare to encounter those kinds of engine problems these days.

Here's another thread about HVAC:

I'm getting a bit worried because what if the entire box needs to be removed to fix the levers? I haven't personally worked with a semi-pro HVAC vacuum set, so I'm afraid it will cost a lot or I'll mess something up - basic fear of the unknown.

I love my Liberty, though, so I'll just cross that bridge when I come to it . . .
Well I'm not going to lie, the engine shuttering/stalling scares me quiet a bit. Before my F-150, I came out of a 2014 Ram 1500 that I had major problems with. I ended up having to trade it in as it sat on a flatbed in non-running condition.... I ended up taking an $8k hit by doing so but there was nothing else I could do. The truck sat for 2 1/2 months before the dealership finally got it running again and then it was sent off to auction in which it ended up in Virginia somewhere.

I REALLY do not want to go through something like that again... less than a year later to boot. But, I understand all cars have their issues and usually not every car produced of a specific model does not have the same issue. I really hope that the KK isn't going to be known to have that issue because all of the ones I am looking at are around that mileage.
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post #15 of 21 Old 09-21-2017, 08:10 AM
lfhoward
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 979
the engine shuttering/stalling...
This is not a common thing with the KK.
There are a few people who have had to replace the TIPM (totally integrated power module, aka the big fuse box under the hood) which can be an expensive hassle, but I think you're right that every vehicle model has its problems. In the case of the Liberty I would say they are a pretty reliable truck in general, though there are of course a few lemons out there.
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2008 Liberty Sport 4x4 Automatic
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