Jeep kk diesel crd. 2.8 diesel 2010 Maf problems Mass Air flow problems 48000 kms - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 01-14-2014, 07:05 AM   #16
koutoukos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fabioschallbr
I will order the hose But in the dealer here they not have because this car is only UK or AU market . iam in US . Any one know where I can order fast this hose 55037958AB ?? Thanks a lot for your help MTBJET
I would suggest to order both hoses. It is a matter of time to have a hole to the other too. Try to find the hoses from Samco company which they produce them from silicone. They make them for sure for wrangler CRD but I am not sure if they are the same for the kk CRD.

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Unread 01-14-2014, 08:20 AM   #17
MtBJet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koutoukos
I would suggest to order both hoses. It is a matter of time to have a hole to the other too. Try to find the hoses from Samco company which they produce them from silicone. They make them for sure for wrangler CRD but I am not sure if they are the same for the kk CRD.
Samco does make some nice hoses, but just about anything that can punch a hole in an OEM hose can punch a hole in a Sammy. The Samcos will give you slightly better airflow though. With normal wear the OEMs should make it to 100k. If you're looking for the ultimate in IC piping, have something custom bent (using the largest OD piping you can get away with using factory routing) from stainless and use silicone couplers.
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Unread 01-14-2014, 09:11 AM   #18
MtBJet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fabioschallbr
I will order the hose But in the dealer here they not have because this car is only UK or AU market . iam in US . Any one know where I can order fast this hose 55037958AB ?? Thanks a lot for your help MTBJET
Not a problem. The fastest way is probably the dealer. The cheapest way is online.

As an aside, if you want more power out of a turbo vehicle, you don't need a chip. Turbo vehicles are easy to get power out of. Airflow is everything, the more you have and the easier it flows, the more power you'll net (as compared to an NA engine). The factory ECU can handle most changes you make. Step one would be exhaust, don't go cat-back, go turbo back. Use 3" pipe (stainless preferred), mandrel bent (not press). This alone will net you a good deal. And, like I mentioned in the above post, larger diameter IC pipes will give you a little more kick. A free-flow intake will help too. Anything to free up flow. Beyond this and I would highly recommend an aftermarket boost gauge as you'd be messing with pressure. I'm not sure what the flow rate (CFM) is on the factory turbo but I'm sure it's not out flowed at the factory 26.5 PSI (I think that's stock). I bet it can be pushed to 30 PSI using a boost controller... Assuming heat soak doesn't get too bad (which it shouldn't). Beyond this your getting into larger CFM turbos, larger intercoolers, larger fuel pumps, etc, etc. Oh, and a lot of mula.
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Unread 01-14-2014, 02:56 PM   #19
koutoukos
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Originally Posted by MtBJet View Post
With normal wear the OEMs should make it to 100k.

100k! I hope so!

How do you define "normal wear"?
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Unread 01-14-2014, 08:42 PM   #20
MtBJet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koutoukos
100k! I hope so! How do you define "normal wear"?
Sure. I've got 136k and ticking with the OEMs on my car. I pressure tested the system and pulled them for inspection a couple of weeks ago and all is good.

I would define "normal wear" as what the manufacturer intended the vehicle to be used for. Aside from the chance occurrence of kicking something up on the street that damages them, they should last a very long time. I would put heavy off-road use or extreme pressure loads outside the realm of normal wear.
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Unread 01-15-2014, 03:54 AM   #21
koutoukos
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May I ask what kind of oil do you use and if your car is equipped with dpf filter?

Thanks!
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Unread 01-15-2014, 07:29 AM   #22
MtBJet
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Originally Posted by koutoukos
May I ask what kind of oil do you use and if your car is equipped with dpf filter? Thanks!
I've used, and liked, Mobile1 and AMSOil in the past... weight depending on where I live/time of year. As for the DPF, no, but then again mine is not a diesel. I've simply been working on turbo vehicles for over 15 years now. Would I keep the DPF? Sadly yes. I'm an outdoors enthusiast and I like clean air. But (there's always one of those), I would consider a high-flow unit. I'm the same way with catalytic converters.

The one thing I would recommend doing on any turbo vehicle, and I should have mentioned it above, is addressing the crankcase breather system. The way these are designed is simply bad for turbos as it dumps oil along with other crap into the compressor side. The gasses are fine, it's the liquids/particles you don't want. Get an internally filtered catch can (preferably one you can drain) and put it inline. Don't get one that breaths to atmosphere, it should be a closed system. Drain it when you change the oil. There's a guy in the DSM community that has a good write up on this. It talks about how to address the breather as well as the PCV system. It can be found here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...cv-system.html

Anyone with a turbo vehicle should consider this. It'll help your performance about .0000001% but your turbo will love you for it. Your wallet may as well.
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Unread 01-15-2014, 07:35 AM   #23
MtBJet
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Oh, your intercooler will love you too.
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Unread 01-15-2014, 07:36 AM   #24
MtBJet
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Oh, and so will you TB.
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Unread 01-15-2014, 07:37 AM   #25
MtBJet
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And your mileage... a little.
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Unread 01-15-2014, 07:38 AM   #26
MtBJet
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Etc, etc.
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Unread 01-15-2014, 08:36 AM   #27
koutoukos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtBJet View Post
With normal wear the OEMs should make it to 100k.
Quote:
Originally Posted by koutoukos View Post
100k! I hope so!
Quote:
Originally Posted by MtBJet View Post
...but then again mine is not a diesel.
This is why I was surprised! It is common secret that almost all of the JK and KK diesels have problems with the hoses every 50k Kms approximately. This is why they have changed the product from 2010+.

Many thanks for the useful informations though!!!
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