Interesting read on oil changes - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #16 of 26 Old 12-22-2011, 12:17 PM
tjkj2002
Registered User
2002 KJ Liberty 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 8,393
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post
I agree. I have considered, though, with switching over to synthetic, that bumping out to say 4500-5000 mile intervals would work. I have always tried to stick with 3000 miles because that is what I learned when I first started driving.
Do what ever you feel is safe but I would highly recommend doing a UOA before going past 5k.Not every engine will react the same with extended OCI's.


'02 Liberty sitting on 35" tires,HP44,RockJock60,and AtlasII t-case
tjkj2002 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 26 Old 12-22-2011, 12:35 PM
JeepN4KC
Keep on Jeepin on........
 
JeepN4KC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Blue Springs
Posts: 6,947
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjkj2002 View Post
Do what ever you feel is safe but I would highly recommend doing a UOA before going past 5k.Not every engine will react the same with extended OCI's.
I don't know what a UOA costs - but my guess is sticking with 3000 mile intervals (which for my wife and my Jeeps translates to about 4 changes a year) as opposed to bumping out to 4500-5000 (which would translate to about 3 OC's per year) the cost differential would be a wash. Someone else had a thread similar to this and it was mentioned that oil changes are a relatively cheap maintenace item. I have to agree, not to mention, as you said - compared to the cost of a new engine - why press your luck?

~Mike~

Build Thread WK
Other Build Thread XJ
Sept '13/Jan '15/Jun '16 COTM
JeepN4KC is online now  
post #18 of 26 Old 12-22-2011, 12:48 PM
tjkj2002
Registered User
2002 KJ Liberty 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 8,393
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepN4KC View Post
I don't know what a UOA costs - but my guess is sticking with 3000 mile intervals (which for my wife and my Jeeps translates to about 4 changes a year) as opposed to bumping out to 4500-5000 (which would translate to about 3 OC's per year) the cost differential would be a wash. Someone else had a thread similar to this and it was mentioned that oil changes are a relatively cheap maintenace item. I have to agree, not to mention, as you said - compared to the cost of a new engine - why press your luck?
Yeah the cost of a UOA is about the same cost of doing a oil change.


Not that I'm against extended OCI's,but as a Master Tech I get the fun of seeing the worst results from them.I know money is tight these days for most but if $25 every few months kills your budget I just can not feel sorry for what happens and maybe it's time to rethink the whole transportation thing and take the bus(not directed at anybody,just cheapa$$'s as a whole).

I mean I'm cheap but not on a few items like..............

1-My Jeep,and anything to do with it but I do bargin shop for the highest quaility stuff
2-ketchup(Hienz only)
3-My boots
4-Beef(black angus only,hey I grew up on it and get it for free)
5-My tools,my livelihood

Anything else I buy the cheapest by any means.

'02 Liberty sitting on 35" tires,HP44,RockJock60,and AtlasII t-case
tjkj2002 is offline  
post #19 of 26 Old 12-22-2011, 12:56 PM
jeepster-d
Registered User
2009 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: detroit
Posts: 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjkj2002 View Post
1st diesel oil is a bit different then what your engine requires.Diesel oil needs to hold soot where as a gas engines oil does not and additives needed for gas engines is more then diesels so yes diesel oil can can/will last longer but still breaks down.


The biggest issues is keeping the oil clean and keeping the additives.Your normal filter that fits a KK will hold enough junk that if dompacted would be about the size of a dime,but that's about it.Now all that junk is not metal but dirt sucked into the engine and other debris.
I get it .. keep the oil clean, but maintain the chemical makeup of that oil. It sounds feasible that he could've gotten that kind of lifespan from his oil.

So .. next question, would it be a worth while expense to put in a better oil filtration system? I've read that filter products by WIX has exceptional oil filtering performance - I think that's what my buddy had installed in his truck, yes for diesel but WIX also has products for gas engine vehicles. Not sure there would be ROOM enough for a remote filter canister on the fender under that hood though ...
jeepster-d is offline  
post #20 of 26 Old 12-22-2011, 06:46 PM
streetglideok
Registered User
2005 KJ Liberty 
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Castle Pines
Posts: 3,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepster-d View Post
I get it .. keep the oil clean, but maintain the chemical makeup of that oil. It sounds feasible that he could've gotten that kind of lifespan from his oil.

So .. next question, would it be a worth while expense to put in a better oil filtration system? I've read that filter products by WIX has exceptional oil filtering performance - I think that's what my buddy had installed in his truck, yes for diesel but WIX also has products for gas engine vehicles. Not sure there would be ROOM enough for a remote filter canister on the fender under that hood though ...
IMO, you could do the research on it, and make a remote filter setup, but the one thing it will never do, and is the biggest problem, it wont replace volatile oil additives, and it wont improve oil once it begins to break down. The requirements for gas engines are vastly different from diesels. On my Freightliner, with a detroit series 60 in it, the company did a PM every 30K, which among other things involved replacing both the oil filters. The oil only was replaced at 60K. They saw 800k-1000K miles on them. Yeah, as in one million miles, without engine breakdowns. Gas engines have different needs, that 2 mega oil filters are not going to fix.
streetglideok is offline  
post #21 of 26 Old 01-13-2014, 04:49 PM
wjkrostek
Registered User
2012 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: wasilla
Posts: 35
oil is made up of chains of molecules that get torn apart in friction. Heat is the biggest problem you have. So keep it cool and change it when it is dirty. Put a drop from your dip stick on a white piece of paper and let it spread out for a few hours then look at your drop and see how much dirt you see. let that be your guide not miles. If its still clean at 3000 miles why would you change it? Try it and you will see what I mean.
wjkrostek is offline  
post #22 of 26 Old 01-13-2014, 09:44 PM
Poncherello
Moderator
2010 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Paterson
Posts: 1,128
Interesting information, I think the auto manufacturers will advise you to let's say change your oil up to 7.5K miles to increase the vehicle's reliability and decrease maintenance and assuming if you lease the vehicle why not? The oil companies will tell you 10K so they can compete with another and make you think that their oil is the best in the world.

One thing you want to becareful with, is buying an oil with like 5w50 or 10w40, the oil companies add polymers into those oils so they can runs liquidy during a very cold start up and yet keep consistent during operating temperature. However, what they won't tell you is those polymers eventually get stuck with in your motor. Another thing I read form multiple sources is adding oil additives to your oil with newer motors is not such a good idea either the oil itself will works its magic and keep your motor protected.

I think keeping the oil as cold as possible is not good either, you need to keep at an optimum temperature not sure what it is, but I know for an automatic transmission its optimum temperature is 190 degrees Fahrenheit.

Moreover, as long as you use the recommended weight and certification by the car manufacturer; with API rating on the oil is now I think SN your good. Stay away from no name brands unless the vehicle is for someone you don't like lol. Change 3-6K and/or your drive less then, that 4 times a year you'll be ok. Always check the valve cover cap for sludge and /or foam.

I used Purlator Pure 1, New Fram Filters, Mobil1 Oil filters and either mostly Penzoil Platnum Synthetic 5w20 and/or Mobil 1 oil

that's my 1c .

Good luck

When you get knee-deep in a situation, floor it.
Poncherello is offline  
post #23 of 26 Old 01-13-2014, 10:22 PM
tjkj2002
Registered User
2002 KJ Liberty 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 8,393
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poncherello View Post
I think keeping the oil as cold as possible is not good either, you need to keep at an optimum temperature not sure what it is, but I know for an automatic transmission its optimum temperature is 190 degrees Fahrenheit.
Unless you have a trans made in the last few years running synthetic ATF it will not last long at 190 degrees.It's closer to around 150-160 degrees for most auto trans and has been for along time.

'02 Liberty sitting on 35" tires,HP44,RockJock60,and AtlasII t-case
tjkj2002 is offline  
post #24 of 26 Old 01-13-2014, 10:34 PM
tommudd
Registered User
2004 KJ Liberty 
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Central OH/ Kilimanjaro,Tanzania
Posts: 5,719
I've always ran all of my vehicles up into the 250,000-300,000 mile range ( before I sell them) changing the oil every 3-4000 miles. Working at a dealership I saw things like TJKJ posted, engines so gunked up you had to dig the sludge out of them, make ya sick.
I was just looking at mine yesterday and had counted up the oil changes so far. Yes tomorrow will be oil change number 64 on mine

04 KJ WITH JBA 4 INCH COILOVER LIFT
03 KJ WITH 2.5 TOTAL CONTROL LIFT
tommudd is offline  
post #25 of 26 Old 01-14-2014, 06:03 AM
bsad67
Registered User
2012 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: clay
Posts: 122
I've repaired engines for over 15 years and imo if you don't change you oil every 3000 miles after the first one, your crazy. You wouldn't beleave what the inside of those things look like!! That pic isn't anywhere near the worst I've seen.

2012 KK Latitude Chrome grille, chrome bug deflector, chrome door handles,
chrome mirror caps, chrome gas door and Jeep Cargo Area Liner.
AVS vent shades and factory dealer installed remote start.
http://www.forjeepsonly.com/jeep-forum/showthread.php?108-Member-from-FABO
bsad67 is offline  
post #26 of 26 Old 01-15-2014, 01:00 PM
mrbeal
Registered User
2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Norwell
Posts: 87
The inside of the engine looks like someone had a grand old time with a few pounds of chocolate and a hair dryer... gross.
mrbeal is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Jeep Forums Replies Last Post
May 2011 Four Wheeler mag-Interesting KK quote... MtnLuvr KK Liberty Forum 4 04-09-2011 10:24 AM
interesting roof rack on the liberty...check out this link jeffs316 KK Liberty Forum 5 02-16-2011 01:16 PM
Please Read Gramps KK Liberty Forum 1 06-14-2009 12:49 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome