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Unread 03-07-2015, 08:57 AM   #1
cbdeajr
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2012 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Perry, MO
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Dead New Battery again 2011 Liberty

Just replaced the battery a couple weeks ago because it would be dead if I had not driven for a few days. Now the new battery is dead but I hear a buzzing sound coming from the fuse box. When I remove the 2 Omron # 04692139aa it stops. Not sure what these are for but a search shows 1 as a powertrain control mod relay. But I do have a different sound when I pull 1 then the other. They both have to be pulled to stop the sound. Tried switching them around but did not change anything.
Any suggestions????

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Unread 03-07-2015, 10:53 AM   #2
josworth
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Get it to a dealer and show them. They can then hook up the computer to pin point where the current draw is coming from. It could simply be something staying "awake" after shut down.
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Unread 03-10-2015, 12:26 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbdeajr View Post
Just replaced the battery a couple weeks ago because it would be dead if I had not driven for a few days. Now the new battery is dead but I hear a buzzing sound coming from the fuse box. When I remove the 2 Omron # 04692139aa it stops. Not sure what these are for but a search shows 1 as a powertrain control mod relay. But I do have a different sound when I pull 1 then the other. They both have to be pulled to stop the sound. Tried switching them around but did not change anything.
Any suggestions????
Hey cbdeajr,
I recommend getting into a dealer to properly diagnose the issue. Let me know if youd like any assistance scheduling an appointment.
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Unread 03-10-2015, 12:48 PM   #4
cbdeajr
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Out of town this week. Planning on taking it in when I get back. Just hate taking it to a dealer. They seem to just want to replace parts until the problem is fixed. Like to know what problem is so as not to be taken.
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Unread 03-10-2015, 10:20 PM   #5
Rob K
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Assuming yours is the same as my 2011. You'll need a volt meter. Charge the dead battery with a battery charger, it should read around 12.5 volts dc on a fully charged battery. Hook up the cables and start the Jeep. If the alternator is charging you should measure around 13.5 to 14.5 volts dc at the battery with the engine running. It sounds like your problem is likely with something that is not turning off or is shorted, but you should still verify that the charging circuit is working. That's usually the first and easiest thing to do when dealing with electrical problems. And make sure the battery connections are clean and tight.

Check for any trouble codes that may tell you what's wrong.

It says on the cover of the fuse box those parts are K1 RUN/ACCY RLY and K2 RUN RLY. They are relays for something. You'll need wiring diagrams at this point unless someone can point out what those relays are for. The owners manual my say what they are for. You likely still need a wiring diagram and a meter to troubleshoot the problem from this point. I have a Haynes service manual, but I cannot tell what the relays are for from the vague wiring diagrams.

Also I wouldn't leave the battery hooked up very long in case something is actually shorted. You wouldn't want to take a chance on starting a fire. And if you drain your battery too many times it will wreck that also.
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Unread 03-10-2015, 10:43 PM   #6
Rob K
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From what I can see the owners manual only lists fuses. It says nothing about relays in the fuse box.
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Unread 03-10-2015, 10:50 PM   #7
Rob K
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Read this link I found searching the internet. It's for a Wrangler, but they likely use the same fuse block and relays as our Liberties. It sounds exactly like your problem. In summary it says the relays click even if the vehicle is off due to a low battery voltage. Charge your battery and see if the relays click. Then you'll still need to figure out why your battery is being drained or not being charged.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/cl...ad-186072.html
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Unread 03-10-2015, 10:54 PM   #8
Rob K
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Forgot to mention to test voltage on the battery posts and again on the cable connectors to verify good connection of the battery cables.
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Unread 03-11-2015, 07:14 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbdeajr View Post
Out of town this week. Planning on taking it in when I get back. Just hate taking it to a dealer. They seem to just want to replace parts until the problem is fixed. Like to know what problem is so as not to be taken.
Cbdeajr,
Id be happy to assist you with your concerns. Personal message me your VIN and dealer if youd like me to schedule an appointment for you. I can follow up with the service department when you take the vehicle in and keep you updated through the process.
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Unread 04-06-2015, 07:28 PM   #10
travelhawk
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Liberty 2008 battery dies too

My 2008 Liberty Limited, purchased new, 63K miles, developed odd electrical issues about 3 years ago, dealer visits have been unproductive. Their best advice was "buy a new battery". So far, I've bought 4 batteries, including just a month ago. They keep getting discharged and eventually damaged by the Liberty, apparently.

1. Battery fades away, usually middle of the night, accompanied by the alarm sounding. There's no obvious problem in situations where I can leave the doors unlocked, therefore no alarm to trigger. So I can't be sure about cause-and-effect: Does a dropping voltage trigger the alarm, or does the mysteriously triggered alarm drain the battery? I think both.

I have a sense that moisture somehow is involved because the problem happens more after rain, or a damp night. But I can't prove this: testing with a blasting hose doesn't trigger the problem.

After many, many 3 AM visits to the driveway, my wife or I now disconnect the battery EVERY NIGHT, then reconnect every morning/next drive. It's our ritual. We have a suitable small wrench that is always there to do the dirty work. Of course, everyone around us notices and now thinks rather poorly of Jeep quality. Because we travel a lot, there's an ever-widening number of witnesses to the fiasco. They get even more un-impressed when I mention the need to replace the battery at least once a year because eventually it won't hold a charge. And when I mention that Jeep dealers have no ideas or solution.

2. Overhead map lights don't work, they failed about the same time as the alarm starting sounding nightly. Nope, not the bulb, not the switches. The very same lights go ON/OFF when the doors are opened/closed. The individual light switches work perfectly in the open-door situation. But the same switches and bulbs do nothing when the Liberty is being driven and the map lights are needed. I suspect this and the alarm and battery problems are related. The dealer says it's all controlled by the car's computer, though they would be happy to dismantle the entire dash to see if anything is amiss. As a substitute map light we keep a small flashlight in the dash tray.

3. There's a random PING after the first mile or so, no indicator lights, no idea what triggers it. I've heard this is an infamous Liberty problem, we've had it since Day One.

We'll soon be replacing the Liberty, just because we feel stupid popping the hood every night and every morning resulting in dirty hands. And I miss having overhead map lights. Because other than the unsolved mystery it's a great vehicle. But we won't be buying another Liberty...er, Cherokee.
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Unread 04-07-2015, 07:05 PM   #11
Rob K
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Travelhawk you should start a new thread that's just for your vehicle. I'll post the info below in your new thread and delete this post. Hopefully we hear back from cbdeajr about his Jeep. We don't want to hijack his thread.

Sounds like you need to find somewhere else to have your vehicle serviced if they can't figure out what's draining your battery. It shouldn't be too hard to figure out. Give up on the repair center not the Jeep.

Unfortunately all vehicles these days are full of electronics. The newer the vehicle and the more upscale it is the more electronics it has. Increasing the chance of having electrical problems. A small problem can equate to several electrical gremlins. I don't think you can get away from electrical problems in this day and age.

You could get a battery disconnect switch. Usually just takes the turn of a knob. It doesn't fix the problem though. Just means you don't have to use a wrench to disconnect the battery.

Are you certain it's the Jeep? Are you buying a quality battery? Maybe the ones you are getting are junk. Might be able to load test them at the parts store. Maybe where your getting them from. If your certain the batteries are not defective proceed to voltage testing.

The thing to do would be to get a multimeter. Check the battery voltage with the vehicle off and it should measure around 12.5 volts dc for a fully charged battery. Next start the vehicle and check voltage again. Should be around 13.5-14.5 volts dc when the alternator is charging. If both of these voltages look good than your battery and charging system are likely good. Also look over all the charging system connections. Make sure nothings loose or corroded. Not a bad idea to clean and retighten all the charging system connections. Use non conductive dielectric grease on all the connections to prevent future corrosion.

If battery and charging system are good then there's something that is staying on and draining the battery or there's a short somewhere. Set your multimeter to the amps setting and hook it up in series with the battery. Do not start the vehicle or it will blow the fuse in your meter. Vehicle must be off. If something is drawing from your battery with the vehicle off you will be able to read how much current is being drawn with the meter. Pull fuses one at a time and note which circuits are drawing from the battery with the vehicle off. Sounds like you have the alarm activated at night so it will likely have some current draw. Likely bad circuits are the ones you are already are having problems with. Those are the ones to be the most concerned with.

After tracking down which circuits are drawing current get a wiring diagram and inspect the circuit. Hook the battery back up and test everything in the circuit. You may find that something doesn't work right. Most likely problem areas are anywhere there is a connection, switch, light, etc. This is where you'll have to start taking things apart to find out what in the circuit is causing the current draw. Either a bad part or electrical short. If you get this far. Ask for further advise.
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