Curt trailer wiring harness - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-22-2014, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
rescue575
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2011 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Franklin Square
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Curt trailer wiring harness

Ok, I just received my Curt Wiring harness yesterday but am a little confused. Perhaps anyone else has the same issue. What I ordered (supposedly) was the 55027 T-Connector. What was delivered was a different model number (forgive me I don't have it in front of me right now tp specify product number) however, the box states it is for Libby I have. Now the 55027 from what I have researched does not require a dedicated line run from the power box to the battery. The model I received does. Don't understand why it would need a power line if they are connecting to tail light. So if you have gotten this kit, is it a must to run this line to power the module? And if it is, what is the best way to run this wire from the d/s taillight to the battery without interfering with anything hot or mechanical?

Thanks in advance!

Ok, did a ill more research on Curt website. It is the 56183 harness that I received. Website lists the converter included "as need." So to minimize my question, is it "NEEDED." All the videos that I have found for installation were for the 55027 kit and none showed the need for the installation of the converter.


2011 Liberty Sport
2 KC Slimlite[RIGHT] 130 Watt Long Range on JK Bar
TMS Aluminum Roof Rack Cross Bars
Cobra 75, Firestik Door Jam Mount, HD Spring, 2Ft Firestik
Dunlop Fierce Attitude M/T
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-22-2014, 11:56 AM
cowboyupbrad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rescue575
Ok, I just received my Curt Wiring harness yesterday but am a little confused. Perhaps anyone else has the same issue. What I ordered (supposedly) was the 55027 T-Connector. What was delivered was a different model number (forgive me I don't have it in front of me right now tp specify product number) however, the box states it is for Libby I have. Now the 55027 from what I have researched does not require a dedicated line run from the power box to the battery. The model I received does. Don't understand why it would need a power line if they are connecting to tail light. So if you have gotten this kit, is it a must to run this line to power the module? And if it is, what is the best way to run this wire from the d/s taillight to the battery without interfering with anything hot or mechanical? Thanks in advance! Ok, did a ill more research on Curt website. It is the 56183 harness that I received. Website lists the converter included "as need." So to minimize my question, is it "NEEDED." All the videos that I have found for installation were for the 55027 kit and none showed the need for the installation of the converter.
I just installed one on my 08. I had to run a line from the battery all the way back. It did t into the tail lights. Hardest part was running the wire all the way from front to back. I just ran and zip tied to things that didn't move or get hot.
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post #3 of 9 Old 03-22-2014, 07:57 PM
kiwi_outdoors
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me too

Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboyupbrad View Post
I just installed one on my 08. I had to run a line from the battery all the way back. It did t into the tail lights. Hardest part was running the wire all the way from front to back. I just ran and zip tied to things that didn't move or get hot.
same as what you said - except I got two eyefuls of grit when I installed the tow hitch assembly - now my left eyelid is swollen and I am administering eyedrops 4 times a day

1997 XJ, automatic, stock 4x4
2008 KK Sport 6 speed, stock 4x4
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-22-2014, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
rescue575
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So I assume you guys rannthenwirenunder the truck? Just seems ridiculous n don't understand why the harness can't obtain the power directly from the twilight system.

2011 Liberty Sport
2 KC Slimlite[RIGHT] 130 Watt Long Range on JK Bar
TMS Aluminum Roof Rack Cross Bars
Cobra 75, Firestik Door Jam Mount, HD Spring, 2Ft Firestik
Dunlop Fierce Attitude M/T
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post #5 of 9 Old 03-23-2014, 04:48 AM
cowboyupbrad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi_outdoors
same as what you said - except I got two eyefuls of grit when I installed the tow hitch assembly - now my left eyelid is swollen and I am administering eyedrops 4 times a day
I got an eyeful also when mounting the hitch. Live and learn. Guess I will wear glasses if ever a next time.
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-23-2014, 04:49 AM
cowboyupbrad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rescue575
So I assume you guys rannthenwirenunder the truck? Just seems ridiculous n don't understand why the harness can't obtain the power directly from the twilight system.
Yea I ran it underneath.
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-23-2014, 08:40 AM
cbdeajr
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12V is supplied to the adapter via a wire on a separate fuse, so ALL trailer lights are on a separate fuse from the rest of the vehicles lights.
Then they use the Stop and Turn signals for each side to combine them to a single output ( filament ) per side since trailers usually do not have separate turn signals, but use the combined filament for the dual purpose of Stop light and turn signal as was on older vehicles. This is done thru solid state trigger and switching devices.

They also do the same with the standard tail lights ( night illumination that comes on with your headlight switch ). They use this to trigger s circuit so the lights get their 12V from that same separate feed above.

Wiring trailer lights direct to the turn, brake and taillight circuit could overload it, cause blinker failure or different rate of blinking and if there is a short circuit on the trailer, the car lights are still functional.
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-24-2014, 08:06 PM
kiwi_outdoors
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power from tail lights?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rescue575 View Post
So I assume you guys rannthenwirenunder the truck? Just seems ridiculous n don't understand why the harness can't obtain the power directly from the twilight system.
your idea won't work if regular lights are not on during the day - you would have no brake or turn lights available

now, if you took power from both flasher and running lights via isolating diodes, then combined them, and used lower power LED trailer lights, you may have a winner!

So who wants to test this idea?

1997 XJ, automatic, stock 4x4
2008 KK Sport 6 speed, stock 4x4
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-30-2014, 08:20 PM
Ted15
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The power wires that go to the battery are for trailer brakes and auxiliary power for a seven pin plug. The brake lights and signals are taken from the tee connector. I got my hitch and wire harness from the dealer. There were two options, 4 pin or 7. The 4 pin only goes to the tail lights while the 7 goes to the front. 2 of the wires go to the battery and the third goes to the brake controller.

2010 KK Sport, Detoures Knucklebone & backbone, smittybilt XRC 10, rigid led lights, R/L sliders & rack, cb, EMT2, R/K 15x7, OME, JBA, mopar skids & hitch, headlight covers, 4.10's and TruTracs
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