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Unread 04-01-2013, 01:45 PM   #1
dtbingle
Registered User
2011 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: St. Clair Shores, MI
Posts: 67
Audio Install

After asking for a bunch of opinions on wiring and changing up my setup multiple times, I settled on final locations. Sorry if there's big gaps in the pictures, I didn't think about writing up this installation until afterwards, but I'll try to explain what I did to fill in the gaps.


I installed new door speakers a while back so I don't have pictures of that. I used just the factory wiring and didn't run new speaker wire through the grommets running to the doors.

Car ripped apart ready for install.



Simple head unit install. Used the PAC Chrysler harness and soldered the speaker wires onto the appropriate leads on the radio harness. The same procedure was done for the steering wheel control adapter.

I connected the RCA cables and ran the speaker wires and RCA cables down to the passenger seat. I just pushed all the wires into the little space in the picture above and ran them until I hit the carpet of the passenger seat. Then just ran them over to the boot trim on the passenger side and ran all the cables back to the cargo well in the trunk. For the remote wire, I spliced into the accessory turn on wire running to the AC outlet (purple and white wire I believe). The remote wire ran down to the driver side by the power cable.









Now for the power cable. I ran 4 gauge wire through the rubber grommet that leads into the driver side feet area. Pulled the cable through and ran the wire down the driver side underneath the boot trim, along with the remote wire.

I only used one 4 gauge wire and ran it to a distribution block near the back to split off to power the two amplifiers. My ground cables were attached to the rear seat brackets.



Next I pulled out the cargo well and positioned the amps to take measurements to drill holes for the wires to run into the cargo well.



After drilling and running wires through the holes





The stock cargo cover didn't sit all the way down with the amps being in the way, so a new cover was needed. I used 5/8 in plywood and traced the original cover then cut it out with a skil saw. Sanded the board down. Next I used some Loctite spray adhesive on the board and covered it with automotive headliner backed with foam. I ended up using a staple gun on the bottom side of the cargo near the corners to flatten parts of the headliner out.

Final product






Gear Installed:

Infinity Reference 1600a Amp
Rockford Fosgate R300-4
Pioneer 3400UB head unit
Polk Audio db561 door speakers
MTX TR5512a 12 in sub

Wires:

4 gauge rockford fosgate amp wiring kit
14 gauge scosche speaker wire from walmart
12 gauge speaker wire running to sub

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Unread 04-01-2013, 04:34 PM   #2
Stang977
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2012 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 182
Really nice!

Did you leave the stocks tweets in the dash and they're running off of the HU?
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Unread 04-01-2013, 04:56 PM   #3
dtbingle
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2011 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: St. Clair Shores, MI
Posts: 67
Thanks! And I didn't even bother with the stock tweeters. The Polk audio speakers I have in each of the doors have really nice mids and in my opinion, overpowering highs so I just have highs turned down a bit on headunit and everything sounds amazing.
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Unread 04-01-2013, 06:40 PM   #4
Stang977
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2012 KK Liberty 
 
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Location: White Plains, NY
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Cool. Thanks for the info.
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Unread 05-29-2013, 10:07 PM   #5
dtbingle
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2011 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: St. Clair Shores, MI
Posts: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stang977
Cool. Thanks for the info.
Okay so I remember you asked about the tweeters before. I finally decided to go ahead and look into it. After pulling up all the dash panels, I discovered some things. First off, the stock dash tweeters (non factory kicker upgrade) are 2.5in, 15W, 8 ohm tweeters. If you search for the Chrysler product code "05064205AA" they should come up. Another thing I found. If you're using the factory wiring, the front door speaker wires behind the radio in the harness actually run to BOTH the door speakers and the dash tweeters. I didn't look too close if the speaker had an inductor somewhere in there, but it definitely had a 2.2uF cap, which would give it about a 9khz crossover frequency for a simple first order buttersworth filter - if it's only the cap. I used the factory wiring and did not even think these were hooked up, and must've blew them during the early stages after my install because all they make is a scratchy sound now lol.

So my plan now is to run a new wire from the unused head units speaker outputs (14W rms, 50W max I believe per channel) to whatever new tweeters I decide on.

Head unit -> passive crossover -> tweeter

Another option that you could do is use the factory wires and just put a new tweeter in, but make sure you have some sort of crossover component somewhere to filter out the lower frequencies. The stock speaker had the capacitor attached to the speaker, but you could always just solder a different cap and inductor appropriately to get your desired crossover frequency. This route would look like:

Amp -> radio wire harness front speaker wires -> front door speaker/crossover components then tweeters

I chose to run straight from the headunit so no power is being taken away from my door speakers, but depending on your situation, either will work.

Any more questions and ill try to help!


image-4244927604.jpg
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Unread 05-30-2013, 06:57 PM   #6
Stang977
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2012 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 182
Great! Thank you for the update. Think I'm going to do a component install with a crossover in the doors. This has been a big help.
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Unread 05-30-2013, 07:06 PM   #7
dtbingle
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2011 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: St. Clair Shores, MI
Posts: 67
Awesome! Best of luck with your build! If you have anymore questions about the setup or removing the dash panels, feel free to ask!
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