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Unread 12-01-2013, 11:34 AM   #1
JeepLibertyKK
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2012 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Rohnert Park, CA
Posts: 46
2012 Jeep Liberty: "How To" - Parking Brake Adjustment

I've read a few of the different threads here by doing a 'search' and so far, I am a little confused as to the information posted. Some say that you can remove some slack and increase tension on the parking park cable by accessing it by way of the console. Others say that it can't be done there at all, and can only be done at the rear wheels.

Does anyone have pictures or a link of the actual process to tighten the parking brake shoes on a 2012 Jeep Liberty KK? Seems that most links end up taking me to information on another Jeep model, not a Liberty KK.

Using the picture posted as a starting point, what are the next steps?

Thank you very much. JeepLibertyKK

img_20131130_134533_477.jpg   img_20131130_134731_044.jpg  

Last edited by JeepLibertyKK; 03-08-2014 at 07:23 PM..
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Unread 12-03-2013, 03:06 AM   #2
WhiteRider
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2008 KK Liberty 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 47
I also tried adjusting the "slack" in the parking brake at the lever (under the center console), but couldn't get it to tighten using that method.

I ended up removing the little rubber plug on the inside of each rear rotor, behind the caliper mounts. Then, with the right flat head you can kind of poke around lightly in the hole until you feel the "star adjuster". Start in an upwards position, pulling the screwdriver handle downwards. This will slowly turn the star adjuster, and tighten the parking brake pads. Spin the wheels by hand between each adjustment to test for tightness, when you feel a little drag, back the star adjuster off one notch.

Do both sides BEFORE cranking up on the handbrake to do your final test. If one side has more slack then the other it will likely throw it back out of whack.

Alternatively, you can remove the wheels, brake assemblies, and rotors - and then turn the star adjuster until the rotor barely squeezes back on. It is far easier to see what you are actually doing when you do it this way, but is also much more time consuming.
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2008 White Liberty Ltd. - K&N 77 series intake - Airaid Throttle Body spacer - Sylvania Silverstar Ultra's with LED mod - Warn Rear Recovery Hitch w/D-shackle - JBA UCA's and 3.5" Lift pkg. - 265/65/r18 BFG A/T Ko's
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Unread 03-08-2014, 06:03 PM   #3
JeepLibertyKK
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Okay, so I took my Liberty in for an oil change to my local Jeep dealer. While there, I asked what it would cost to do a parking brake adjustment at the back wheels. I was quoted $175-$225, depending on how long it took. I was a little surprised at that and decided it was best if I just took the time and learn to do it myself, which today, I finally did.

The process was pretty straight forward; I started by blocking the front wheels and then jacking up both sides at the rear of the Jeep and removing the tires & wheels; I used a " impact socket and air impact gun. Since the rear rotor/hubs had never been removed, I had to remove the four factory-installed retainer clips / push nuts from both rotor/hubs. These mainly hold the rotor/hubs in place while traveling down the assembly line. It isn't necessary to replace these once removed, but I went ahead and bought two new ones for each side. (Autozone / Dorman 13441 is a variety pack with 5 different sizes.

Next, I had a choice of removing the two smaller bolts of the caliper, which I think may allow the brake pads to fall out, or the larger bolts and remove the entire assembly. I went with removing the entire assembly, using a 18mm socket. These larger bolts would be the ones at the very top and very bottom, on the back-side. I had to use a 19" breaker bar to get those larger bolts to loosen up, and since you are working from the inside of the rotor, there just isn't much room to use an air gun. Once the two bolts are removed, carefully pull the caliper assembly off the rotor. Make sure that you support the caliper assembly once removed so as not to put undue stress on the brake line.

At this point, you now have access to the star adjuster. I adjusted it six clicks on both sides and then put the rotor/hubs back on before checking the parking brake. (I should have written it down as I went, but I believe to tighten the passenger-side, I turned the star-adjuster clock-wise and the drivers side counterclockwise. As seen in the last picture, the gap will INCREASE, that is, you will see MORE threads if you are tightening the shoes as this pushes the shoes farther from center.) I felt this wasn't enough, so I did an additional three clicks on both sides and rechecked the brake handle. I easily could have gone a few more clicks but decided that since this my first time, I'd go conservative. If you take the adjustment too far, the brake shoes will rub inside the hub and the last thing I wanted to do was burn up them up. If you way over adjust them, the shoes will be pushed too far from the center of the axle hub and you won't be able to re-install the rotor/hub. I spun the rotor hubs and felt that where was no friction, so I called it good. Next time, I'll know that I can be a little more aggressive in the adjustment.

Now, it's just back to reassembly, starting with the rotor/hub; install the replacement push nuts if you want, though as previously mentioned, they are not required. Next, install the caliper assembly. Carefully side the caliper and brake pads back over the rotor, starting at the top and then sliding the bottom in over the rotor. Getting the two bolts back in was a little awkward, as you can't really see too well to line up the bolts with the holes; you just have to finesse it a bit to get the alignment right. Once you get both sides installed, make sure you torque down those bolts.

As noted earlier, you don't have to use the retainer clips / push nuts (Autozone, Dorman brand #13441), but I decided to anyway. Put the wheels back on, making sure to torque down all the wheel lug nuts. I found ratings of 85 ft. lbs. to 100 ft. lbs, and 85 ft. lbs to 110 ft. lbs. Looking in the owners manual shows a specification of 95 ft. lbs., which almost seems like nothing; I have a motorhome that the lug nuts require 475 ft. lbs.

Do a short test drive to make sure all sounds and feels well, and check the parking brake back in the driveway... success! While I will have to do it again in the future, I'l take that opportunity to change the brake fluid too. I now know that no way is it worth it to have the dealer do the adjustment; with a little time and a couple of basic tools, you can do it yourself and save $200+.

Sorry I don't know how to line up the pictures better with the appropriate text listed below each picture...
img_20140308_133332_420.jpg   img_20140308_134304_516.jpg   img_20140308_135411_813.jpg   img_20140308_140359_626.jpg   img_20140308_141050_106.jpg  

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Last edited by JeepLibertyKK; 03-09-2014 at 03:17 PM..
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Unread 03-09-2014, 04:56 AM   #4
fairmont1998
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 40
Good write up mate, thanks
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