So i let my 2003 kj warm up completely while waiting for the heater to kick on. It never got hot, then I started smelling coolant. I opened the hood and just behind the reservoir was smoking coolant. Any thoughts???
No... if you replace the water pump, that's all you need to replace.
However...
If you've never replaced your water pump, you may want to consider getting it flushed (and then request to fill with distilled water) by a nearby shop, then doing upper and lower hoses, thermostat, and radiator. Drain, then fill with Zerex G-05 or equivalent. Don't use universal or prepare to do it again in a couple years (if you're lucky).
No... if you replace the water pump, that's all you need to replace.
However...
If you've never replaced your water pump, you may want to consider getting it flushed (and then request to fill with distilled water) by a nearby shop, then doing upper and lower hoses, thermostat, and radiator. Drain, then fill with Zerex G-05 or equivalent. Don't use universal or prepare to do it again in a couple years (if you're lucky).
If you've never replaced it, it's time based on years alone. if you're low on coolant and there's "sludge" in the resovoir (aka the pressure overflow tank), then you definitely need it flushed. you also should definitely replace everything as i said above. You don't know where the sludge is coming from, and the only thing that's going to fix it is a complete flush along with replacing all the affected parts. This is why I recommended having the shop fill with distilled water, because you're gonna dump out whatever is in there (for the most part) onto the ground anyway, so it might as well be water instead of coolant. Save some fish.
I did this job last year and it's not that difficult, you just need to be careful putting the new radiator back in and clipping the A/C condenser to it. It can be tricky, but I managed to do it by myself.
Just run the heater full blast on the way home with the water in it and you'll be safe from overheating/boiling over.
Ok. To get to the shop, how can I flush it at home? I just replaced the pump, I Wil have to order the rad and other stuff. I plan to ask the shop to flush it in all ways possible and fill it with hoat, think this will be ok until new parts get here? Need it for work
A couple of the plugs in the bottom of the engine block are leaking coolant. 1 is right I'm Front of the passenger side heat shield and one is just above the motor mount and parallel to the frame.
To be able to drive these in straight .. The shop wants me to pull the engine.
I want to drill through the heat shield and frame and put a 1/4 Inch extension through to drive the plugs in with a socket
If you let the engine overheat you are going to probably drop an intake valve seat in the not to distant future. It's a known problem on the early libby's with the 3.7
Well, it never actually overheated fully, I happened to catch the temp gauge rising and was able to stop and that's when I saw that my coolant had been cooking in the block. Also my freeze plugs never leaked until I had put water in the system to keep coolant, then after I put water in I really pumped on the lower rad hose to circulate all the sludge and chemical flush fluid.. I think the pressure of doing this blew the seal. Yet.. When I was running just water and my fan was not running, the water was definitely boiling in the overflow tank. 2 times this happened before I realised my fan was not running. Was that an over heat situation?
Also; when I pulled out the freeze plugs they were not rusted or corroded through! It seems the leak was at the seal somehow!? The plugs had good meat and were definitely not compromised!
So currently I am running a napa ect, the check engine light went out after 3 trips, but I am noticing a slight decrease in mpg.. Can this be relative to shoddy etc?
Fan seems to run on demand now, ie whenever I turn on cold air (not ac) when the system is hot. I also put a 16 psi new rad cap and my rubber freeze plug is holding
Thoughts? Don't worry about hurting my feelings..
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