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Unread 10-04-2012, 07:01 PM   #1
Apachebear
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Voltage coming into ignition switch question.

Why is there a voltage dropoff on the lines coming into the ignition switch? When I first touched them they were bright on the test light. Then they dimmed out. Then they went out completely.

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Unread 10-05-2012, 12:41 AM   #2
Billwill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apachebear View Post
Why is there a voltage dropoff on the lines coming into the ignition switch? When I first touched them they were bright on the test light. Then they dimmed out. Then they went out completely.

Should not be any voltage drop at all but then again I do not believe in test lights...you need a proper Digital or Analogue Multimeter to trace voltage drops and other electronic issues.

Check the ground you are using for your test lamp.
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Unread 10-05-2012, 12:31 PM   #3
Apachebear
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Okay yeah. Didn't think of that. I will go into storage and dig out my multimeter and try that. The reason I need to know is I'm trying to figure out if its the ignition switch or the computer at this point.
Totally silent turning key. Battery is brand new (Group 34).

....will update soon

Thanks,
Bear
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Unread 10-06-2012, 03:35 AM   #4
Billwill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apachebear View Post
Okay yeah. Didn't think of that. I will go into storage and dig out my multimeter and try that. The reason I need to know is I'm trying to figure out if its the ignition switch or the computer at this point.
Totally silent turning key. Battery is brand new (Group 34).

....will update soon

Thanks,
Bear
There are lots of posts like this and the cause was a broken actuator pin that moves the ignition switch.

If you have already removed the ignition switch, have a look if the actuating pin...plastic or metal...has broken.

You can start the jeep by having the ignition key in its slot...to unlock steering and to activate SKIM and then turn the ignition switch itself with a flat screwdriver.

If you have a broken actuator....report back here for advice on where to get a new one at a good price
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Unread 10-06-2012, 05:47 PM   #5
Apachebear
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Actuator pin isn't broke, looks great. Put key in slot, turned to on. With Battery hooked up. Plugged ignition switch back in and grounded it. put screwdriver in ignition switch and turned. No go.. So possible ignition switch bad?
Also no power to dash or anything internal.
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Unread 10-06-2012, 06:30 PM   #6
Apachebear
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Taking off tomorrow to go buy a Group 34 with over 600 cca Battery from Batteries Plus +. Read something about the PCM sensor and oil sensor, etc. not working if you don't have the correct Battery.
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Unread 10-07-2012, 02:20 AM   #7
Billwill
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Taking off tomorrow to go buy a Group 34 with over 600 cca Battery from Batteries Plus +. Read something about the PCM sensor and oil sensor, etc. not working if you don't have the correct Battery.

You would expect to at least get the dash lights on even with a slightly weaker battery.

When you get your new battery, make sure the battery terminals are clean and very tight and check the battery ground going to chassis is clean and tight and check the grounding strp grounding the engine to chassis is clean and tight.

I presume you have checked all fuses...under the hood and inside the cabin?
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Unread 10-07-2012, 02:22 AM   #8
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Double post
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Unread 10-10-2012, 07:14 AM   #9
JeepCares
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I'm not good with electrical and I'll be the first to admit it. Not sure exactly what diagram would help. Would any of these help - or would you need something else?
02-kj-ground-distribution.gif   02-kj-ig-switch.gif   02-kj-power-distribution.gif  
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Unread 10-11-2012, 04:34 AM   #10
Billwill
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I would start with this diagram showing the ignition switch itself.....measure the voltage coming into the plug and looking for it on the same contact coming out of the plug.
img.jpg  
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Unread 10-11-2012, 06:57 AM   #11
streetglideok
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Originally Posted by Apachebear View Post
Why is there a voltage dropoff on the lines coming into the ignition switch? When I first touched them they were bright on the test light. Then they dimmed out. Then they went out completely.
Test lights, and glorified test lights(power probes), have their uses, but for the problems you are having, are best left in a drawer. A good digital multimeter or graphing meter(even better), is what you need. Make sure you have the correct battery size, and it is good, and that the connections are tight, and spotlessly clean. There's hundreds of posts with problems similar to yours, all due to poor battery connections, FYI. Make sure you have a good grasp on how to measure voltage drops, etc as well.
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Unread 10-11-2012, 11:08 PM   #12
Apachebear
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New Battery

Bought another new battery. This one is from Batteries Plus+. Group 86, has 690 cca. Actually got milage lights for a few seconds. Tried starting it and all went dead silent again. (Battery still okay tho).
Studying the wiring on the PCM and ignition switch. That will be my next purchase I think unless someone can think of something else.

Forgot to mention. About a week before .. the rear tailgate was clicking and window wouldn't close and door wouldn't open. Tow Truck guy and myself took out a fuse and it started. That worked to start the car for about a week. Then this happened.

That's what's strange too. It started up just fine, we shut it off to wait for someone, then nothing. silent. kaput.

Thanks...
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Unread 10-11-2012, 11:10 PM   #13
Apachebear
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No voltage to ignition

OH....also...It is driving me crazy why I'm not getting any power to the ignition. Yep, Battery is tight, multimeter used to measure.
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Unread 10-12-2012, 01:13 AM   #14
Billwill
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Originally Posted by Apachebear View Post
OH....also...It is driving me crazy why I'm not getting any power to the ignition. Yep, Battery is tight, multimeter used to measure.

If you look at the diagram I supplied, Fuse 14, Fuse 13 and Fuse 8.

Then all three of these leads go through connector C100 which is a gray connector located inside the left kick panel...check that the contacts are clean and tight at this connector.


And just to repeat...make sure the negative battery cable goes firmly and cleanly to the chassis and check the grounding strap grounding the engine to the chassis.

The clicking noise you hear at the tailgate is a symptom of weak battery or bad battery connection.
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Unread 10-12-2012, 07:02 AM   #15
streetglideok
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Yep sounds like voltage drop at the battery cables, either ground or positive. Even with a voltage drop, if you are only checking for voltage at the battery, it will say 12v all day long. How about some pics of your battery cable ends, and the battery, and post them on here?
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