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Unread 05-30-2013, 05:32 PM   #1
sconr002
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Trying to fix A/C Leak

I have ran the dye through my girlfriends 2004 Jeep Liberty to try and find the leak because the A/C is not cold and the compressor cycles on and off very frequently. With the dye I did not locate the leak at all. My initial guess is the leak must be located in the evaporator since we pumped the system with freon a week before her A/C stopped blowing cold air. With this, I have been thinking about "trying" to pull the Dash, I know it is a big job but I have pulled a dash and steering column before. Would anyone please reply with comments or advice?

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Unread 05-30-2013, 06:10 PM   #2
rmadona
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See if you can find a refrigerant sniffer and check.
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Unread 05-30-2013, 07:15 PM   #3
streetglideok
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Make sure you are using a black light, and wearing the yellow glasses. Otherwise, you will not see the dye. With the engine off, look closely around the a/c compressor. Look at the hood and around the compressor for signs of dye being slung from it. That would indicate a compressor leak. Look closely at the service ports, for dye seepage. Next, look at the rubber hoses coming off the compressor, look for signs of dampness. If the hoses seep dye thru, itll only have a slight green tinge, it won't be very bright. From there, look at the condenser for wet areas, and see if they glow. Look at all the connections for the lines and anywhere something touches the lines. If all that looks good, then you are facing a leak in the evaporator most likely.
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Unread 05-30-2013, 07:29 PM   #4
tjkj2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sconr002 View Post
I have ran the dye through my girlfriends 2004 Jeep Liberty to try and find the leak because the A/C is not cold and the compressor cycles on and off very frequently. With the dye I did not locate the leak at all. My initial guess is the leak must be located in the evaporator since we pumped the system with freon a week before her A/C stopped blowing cold air. With this, I have been thinking about "trying" to pull the Dash, I know it is a big job but I have pulled a dash and steering column before. Would anyone please reply with comments or advice?
It can take up to a fw hours of operation for that dye to work through the system if it is cycling on/off very fast.
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Unread 05-30-2013, 07:59 PM   #5
sconr002
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Thank you everybody for the replies!

Quote:
Originally Posted by streetglideok View Post
Make sure you are using a black light, and wearing the yellow glasses. Otherwise, you will not see the dye. With the engine off, look closely around the a/c compressor. Look at the hood and around the compressor for signs of dye being slung from it. That would indicate a compressor leak. Look closely at the service ports, for dye seepage. Next, look at the rubber hoses coming off the compressor, look for signs of dampness. If the hoses seep dye thru, itll only have a slight green tinge, it won't be very bright. From there, look at the condenser for wet areas, and see if they glow. Look at all the connections for the lines and anywhere something touches the lines. If all that looks good, then you are facing a leak in the evaporator most likely.
This was done when we first put the dye in, and I just went out and did it again. There was small traces of dye but nothing consistent to a leak. We also did it with the engine running and off. After that we checked the pressure with one of the R-134a attachments from Auto Zone or Advanced Auto Parts and realized there was no pressure at all in the system. Thanks again for you help everyone.
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Unread 05-30-2013, 09:48 PM   #6
streetglideok
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You're going to need better equipment than that to service that system. Pumping R134A into a system without evacuating the system is begging for problems... expensive problems.
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Unread 05-31-2013, 01:45 PM   #7
sconr002
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Hmmm maybe I could replace the evaporator to save money and bring the jeep to them for them to evacuate and recharge... Trying to think of cheapest route.
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Unread 05-31-2013, 04:25 PM   #8
streetglideok
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Cheapest route is whatever it takes to fix it right the first time. Cheap fixes are nearly always the most expensive route.
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Unread 05-31-2013, 08:43 PM   #9
sconr002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetglideok View Post
Cheapest route is whatever it takes to fix it right the first time. Cheap fixes are nearly always the most expensive route.
I understand where you are taking this, but "my" cheapest route also includes fixing it right the first time.

The most expensive detail of this job is pulling the dash and I can do that for free, which is nice because I am trying to pay off student loans. So why not have a shop only evacuate and recharge the system? Does this sound crazy to anyone?
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Unread 05-31-2013, 10:07 PM   #10
streetglideok
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Naaw, that's not what I'm talking about. Pulling the dash, if you can do it, makes economic sense. Finding the leak and fixing it correctly makes sense. Letting a qualified shop do the evac and charge, good move too. Its those who just try band-aiding it, pumping sealer in it, etc, that's what I'm talking about, and just want to make sure you are looking at the big picture. In that, it sounds like you are.
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Unread 06-01-2013, 03:38 PM   #11
SteveKJR
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Hi guys new here to forum. With regards to the ac not working get a can of leak stop at Wally World and put about a half can in the system. This should stop the leak if its a small one. Make sure you remove all refrigerant in the system first before you do this. Then charge the system with 2 12 oz cans of refrigerant. That will get you close to the proper charge. Let the system run and see if that doesn't solve the problem
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Unread 06-01-2013, 06:21 PM   #12
tjkj2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveKJR View Post
Hi guys new here to forum. With regards to the ac not working get a can of leak stop at Wally World and put about a half can in the system. This should stop the leak if its a small one. Make sure you remove all refrigerant in the system first before you do this. Then charge the system with 2 12 oz cans of refrigerant. That will get you close to the proper charge. Let the system run and see if that doesn't solve the problem
Never use any type of R134A with any kind of stop leak mixed in.All that junk does is plug up the system and then it's big $$$$ since every single part in the AC system will have to be replaced as there is no flushing that crap out.It will be at least a $2500+ job.

Find the leak and fix it properly,best way and the cheapest.
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Unread 06-01-2013, 06:42 PM   #13
streetglideok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveKJR View Post
Hi guys new here to forum. With regards to the ac not working get a can of leak stop at Wally World and put about a half can in the system. This should stop the leak if its a small one. Make sure you remove all refrigerant in the system first before you do this. Then charge the system with 2 12 oz cans of refrigerant. That will get you close to the proper charge. Let the system run and see if that doesn't solve the problem
Nice first post. Welcome to the board, and let me be one of the first to say, if you are lacking knowledge, please do not add to the confusion. There are plenty of reasons to NOT put that junk from walmart in your system. What you propose can, and will do harm to the system, and to equipment used to service the vehicle. I don't know a lot, I've only had a state, and federal mobile A/C license for 16 or 17 years? If we won't use it in our own vehicle, there must be a good reason.
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Unread 06-04-2013, 08:26 AM   #14
SteveKJR
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Hi street

I've been involved with commercial hvac systems for over the past 30 or so years. With regards to leak stop in hvac systems new technology has made this product safe to use as long as you don't use too much. My Porsche 911 always leaked refrigerant when I converted it to r134a using leak stop solved the problem. There are several sites that explain how these products work and you will be surprised as to just how they do stop minor leaks so I would encourage you to do some research -

Now with regard to major leaks they need to be repaired for no amount of leak stop will solve the problem and only cause more problems if too much is used.
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Unread 06-04-2013, 01:54 PM   #15
streetglideok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveKJR View Post
Hi street

I've been involved with commercial hvac systems for over the past 30 or so years. With regards to leak stop in hvac systems new technology has made this product safe to use as long as you don't use too much. My Porsche 911 always leaked refrigerant when I converted it to r134a using leak stop solved the problem. There are several sites that explain how these products work and you will be surprised as to just how they do stop minor leaks so I would encourage you to do some research -

Now with regard to major leaks they need to be repaired for no amount of leak stop will solve the problem and only cause more problems if too much is used.
Commercial HVAC has no bearing on a discussion with mobile hvac, sorry. They would use the same license for both stationary and mobile air if they were similar. If you look at the sources for your info on sealer in a/c systems, I bet you will not find a single manufacturer of a/c components supporting those claims. Stationary/commercial a/c systems lack alot of problems we run into with mobile air. One of which, is no controls on the private sector from tampering with their systems, and a lack of skilled professionals who know how to work on them. Couple that with the dynamic enviroment of a mobile system, its a real headache for engineers.
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