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Unread 03-25-2014, 07:08 AM   #1
AVR2
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1993 ZJ 
 
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Oil leak - oil pan gasket or rear main seal?

Poking about under my KJ the other day I note that my oil leak has got worse and the entire oil pan, front to back, is constantly wet. Is this just going to be the pan gasket, or is there any chance it's actually the rear main seal? Any way to rule out one or the other? If I'm going to the effort of changing the pan gasket, is it much more work to do the RMS as well?

Both the pan gasket and RMS are the factory originals at around 130K miles.

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Unread 03-25-2014, 08:54 AM   #2
tjkj2002
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Check the front crank seal.Unless you drive in reverse the whole time the rear main seal will not coat the whole pan from front to back.
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Unread 03-25-2014, 09:26 AM   #3
The_Dealer
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Check the v/c gaskets and oil pressure sender. I've had both make it look like my pan gasket was leaking. When you park it drips down and "rides" the lip of the pan, then makes it look like the pan gasket. When you drive the oil that has dripped onto the lip blows back. My front pinion seal slung gear oil and made it look like a pan leak. Get some gunk degreaser and clean the bottom of the engine, and simple green up top. Then you can get a better idea of where it's leaking. Don't let the simple green sit on the aluminum too long or it will eat the finish up
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Unread 03-25-2014, 09:08 PM   #4
AVR2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjkj2002 View Post
Check the front crank seal
If that's the issue, it needs a ton of special tools to remove the pulley and seal, doesn't it?
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Unread 03-25-2014, 09:55 PM   #5
TwoBobsKJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVR2 View Post
If that's the issue, it needs a ton of special tools to remove the pulley and seal, doesn't it?
Nope.

The damper pulley can be rented from AutoZone and the Miller Special Tools 8511, 8512 and 8348, all of which are available on eBay pretty cheap. (There's an eBay seller that only lists Miller Special Tools.)

Also check the oil pressure sender; it drips down on the lip of the oil pan and runs back to the rear of the engine and shows up on the bottom of the tranny structural cover.

Check the pressure sender first and then move the front main seal if you have to.

Bob
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Unread 03-26-2014, 02:35 AM   #6
AVR2
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I'm not in the USA, so I don't have access to any loan-a-tool programs. If I can pick up the needed tools fairly cheaply on eBay, though, that's something.
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Unread 03-27-2014, 09:01 AM   #7
TwoBobsKJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVR2
I'm not in the USA, so I don't have access to any loan-a-tool programs. If I can pick up the needed tools fairly cheaply on eBay, though, that's something.
Sorry, I didn't check your location before posting :-/

Hopefully you'll be able to source the tools you need relatively inexpensively. Let us know about your progress!

Bob

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Unread 03-29-2014, 10:23 AM   #8
The_Dealer
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You can easily make a puller with a few pieces from a hardware store. Google will turn up alot of ideas for u
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Unread 04-01-2014, 03:05 PM   #9
pentastarguy
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might be worth it to have this done if depending on the cost of tools.
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Unread 04-02-2014, 08:28 AM   #10
jp7794
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Please clarify what you are working on. Is it a Zj or a KJ? Gas or diesel?
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Unread 04-02-2014, 12:51 PM   #11
AVR2
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I clarify that it's my KJ in the first line of my first post. It's gas.
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Unread 04-02-2014, 08:09 PM   #12
The_Dealer
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http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/home...3/#post8718746

http://m.clublexus.com/forums/showth...e=2&styleid=15

Here's what I like to do, which is cheap/easy to make, and most guys already have the stuff laying around.

Basically you figure out what size bolt matches the small threaded holes in the balancer. Drill the holes just big enough for them to go thru. I like to drill 2 holes as close as i can together then dremel out the material to make 1 slotted hole. Drill your big center hole and use some all-thread, or a long fully threaded bolt. I like to put a small deepwell socket in the crank hole, then thread my bolt/all-thread until it's tight against it. It helps to keep from stripping the crank threads. Btw, make sure u can get whatever u use back out. Thread your nut on, slide your flat stock on and then thread the small bolts into the pulley. Then just use a wrench on the nut and back it out, tighten the small bolts, or a little of both.

I've done it like that plenty of times when I didn't have access to a puller, or when the rented one broke. Just don't use a 3 jaw puller or you risk warping it. Sorry to be so long winded, but I figured it would help someone out.
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Unread 04-02-2014, 09:42 PM   #13
tjkj2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Dealer View Post
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/home...3/#post8718746

http://m.clublexus.com/forums/showth...e=2&styleid=15

Here's what I like to do, which is cheap/easy to make, and most guys already have the stuff laying around.

Basically you figure out what size bolt matches the small threaded holes in the balancer. Drill the holes just big enough for them to go thru. I like to drill 2 holes as close as i can together then dremel out the material to make 1 slotted hole. Drill your big center hole and use some all-thread, or a long fully threaded bolt. I like to put a small deepwell socket in the crank hole, then thread my bolt/all-thread until it's tight against it. It helps to keep from stripping the crank threads. Btw, make sure u can get whatever u use back out. Thread your nut on, slide your flat stock on and then thread the small bolts into the pulley. Then just use a wrench on the nut and back it out, tighten the small bolts, or a little of both.

I've done it like that plenty of times when I didn't have access to a puller, or when the rented one broke. Just don't use a 3 jaw puller or you risk warping it. Sorry to be so long winded, but I figured it would help someone out.
Sorry but both those links will not work on a crank pulley on a 3.7 since there are no bolt holes.

You need this puller...............

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6667-Harmo.../dp/B000P6UT2I
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Unread 04-02-2014, 10:26 PM   #14
The_Dealer
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Sorry, links work for me, might be mobile version links since I'm on my phone. I never looked at my balancer so I didn't know there weren't any holes. Sorry for the slight misinformation.
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Unread 04-02-2014, 11:41 PM   #15
AVR2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjkj2002 View Post
You need this puller...............

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6667-Harmo.../dp/B000P6UT2I
Thankyou!

So with that puller (and the Miller tools for removing/installing the actual seal), it's possible to do the job without removing the rad/condenser?
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