post #1 of Old 12-13-2013, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
KimmiesJeep2002
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No Heat 2002 Jeep Liberty

I need some advice. I have a 2002 Jeep Liberty Limited, it has 213,000+ miles on it. My heat has not been working for awhile now. Once the engine warms up there is a little heat initially but then it blows cold air after. I did have the radiator replaced about 3 years ago and I think that's when I started having problems with the heat. Anyway I finally took it in to be looked at, it's too cold and I can't take another winter with no heat in my car. They flushed the heater core and said it didn't do anything for the heat. They said my next option would be to replace the heater core. They quoted me $1,200.00 to do this. My first question is does this seem like a fair price to replace the heater core? I know it's time consuming and labor involved but this seems a little high. Next question, given the miles on my Jeep, is it a good idea or worth it to put this much money into a repair at this point? My Jeep still runs pretty good, I think, except for an occasional oil leak due to a loose seal. They were also concerned about the miles on the Jeep and said they would hate to see me put money into it and then it stops running in the near future. They said I might be better off buying a cheap little car instead. I don't have money to spare and I don't know what to do at this point and I need to decide today since my Jeep is still at the shop and I've been driving a rental car for three days now, which is also costing me money. Any ideas or insight is appreciated. Thanks- Kim

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post #2 of Old 12-14-2013, 04:57 AM
Billwill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KimmiesJeep2002 View Post
I need some advice. I have a 2002 Jeep Liberty Limited, it has 213,000+ miles on it. My heat has not been working for awhile now. Once the engine warms up there is a little heat initially but then it blows cold air after. I did have the radiator replaced about 3 years ago and I think that's when I started having problems with the heat. Anyway I finally took it in to be looked at, it's too cold and I can't take another winter with no heat in my car. They flushed the heater core and said it didn't do anything for the heat. They said my next option would be to replace the heater core. They quoted me $1,200.00 to do this. My first question is does this seem like a fair price to replace the heater core? I know it's time consuming and labor involved but this seems a little high. Next question, given the miles on my Jeep, is it a good idea or worth it to put this much money into a repair at this point? My Jeep still runs pretty good, I think, except for an occasional oil leak due to a loose seal. They were also concerned about the miles on the Jeep and said they would hate to see me put money into it and then it stops running in the near future. They said I might be better off buying a cheap little car instead. I don't have money to spare and I don't know what to do at this point and I need to decide today since my Jeep is still at the shop and I've been driving a rental car for three days now, which is also costing me money. Any ideas or insight is appreciated. Thanks- Kim
Do you have the blower motor blowing lots of air on all speed settings? If not then the blower resistor pack behind the glove-box is faulty.

When they flushed the heater core...did they replace the coolant with the Orange HOAT coolant? This is the only anti-freeze to use...the green one will clog the heater core and damage the engine.

The temperature of the hose going into the heater core should be about the same as the temperature of the hose leaving the core....if not then you have a blocked heater core or a major air lock in the coolant system. There is no valve that regulates water flow through the heater core...it should always flow. Does the engine run at normal temperature? If not then you could have a Thermostat that is stuck open.

What does adjust the heat flow is a Blend Door which you should hear moving when you move the heat control. This is an electric motor that opens/closes various flaps to direct hot or cold air around the place. There is also a vacuum pipe coming into the cabin from the intake manifold to operate air control to de-mist, footwell etc.

If you can use a hosepipe to push water through the heater core then it is not blocked.

2002 2.5 Export CRD Manual 5 speed.
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post #3 of Old 12-14-2013, 08:12 AM
DarkSport11
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Also make sure once the engine is up to temp that both the top and bottom radiator hoses are hot. If the top is hot and the bottom is cold then you most likely have an air pocket that needs to be bled out of the system. I had this problem and the only way I was able to get it out was by running it at operating temp and opening up the drain cock at the bottom of the radiator slightly and let it drain until hot coolant started coming out the drain and the lower hose became as hot as the top hose. Once I did this I had heat again. Be sure to top off the system again after you do this.
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post #4 of Old 12-14-2013, 03:14 PM
camplate
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I just bought a 2003 Liberty Sport and there is no heat. 203k miles but the engine is immaculate. There doesn't seem to be any air pockets but didn't know about the lower drain idea. When I squeeze the bottom radiator hose is feels crunchy, like there is ice or something inside. Have only driven a few miles so far, will drive it a little farther Monday and then try the drain when I get home from work; it's supposed to be above freezing for the first time in ten days.
Also don't know if previous owner used HOAT. Can't tell by the color of the liquid in the coolant tank.
It was confusing when I first popped open the hood and there wasn't any radiator cap.
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post #5 of Old 12-15-2013, 07:32 AM
DarkSport11
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The "crunchy" feeling in the lower hose is more than likely the spring inside of the hose that helps to keep it from collapsing. When you have to replace the lower hose you pull the spring out and re-insert into the new hose. It would probably be a good idea to flush it out and put a new thermostat in it anyway being you just got it and have no idea if it has ever been changed or the last time it was done. I would only use an OEM stat from the dealer instead of some cheap Asian after market piece. There is also a bleeder plug located on the engine right by the upper hose, you can give that a try as well.
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post #6 of Old 12-16-2013, 08:46 AM
camplate
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A spring inside the lower hose? I haven't done any of my own wrenching in years so this is all new.
The warm up won't happen until Thursday or Friday; won't be able to do any work until Sunday or Monday other than quick checks. Luckily I don't need to drive this vehicle yet but I am.
I opened the upper plug and liquid came out, but the design...the upper hose is higher than this plug. The upper hose does not feel like it is full of liquid, but it does get hot. Both heater core hoses are hot, at the engine. Just the lower hose and radiator at the bottom is cold. I'll get out the laser temp sensor tonight to check the hoses at the firewall. The blower inside will put out heat for a second and then go cold.
I trust the person I bought this from, but he's not home for weeks at a time so hard to get information.

Thanks for the help and information.
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post #7 of Old 02-18-2015, 07:47 AM
KaysJeep2002
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No ht when idling

Hi I just bought a 2002 jeep liberty the only way I have heat is when i'm moving. once I come to a stop, it gets cold right away. srart moving again in traffic and here comes the heat again! Can anyone help me?
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post #8 of Old 02-18-2015, 09:08 AM
jp7794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaysJeep2002 View Post
Hi I just bought a 2002 jeep liberty the only way I have heat is when i'm moving. once I come to a stop, it gets cold right away. srart moving again in traffic and here comes the heat again! Can anyone help me?
Check your coolant level. This is common if it is low.
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post #9 of Old 02-18-2015, 07:40 PM
streetglideok
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Yep, often times it's caused from low coolant. Million dollar question is why is it low if it is. Make sure to visually look into the tank, not just look at the side of it. The coolant can leave a stain and make it appear higher than it really is.
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post #10 of Old 11-29-2015, 04:57 PM
spider0709s
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I have same problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by KaysJeep2002 View Post
Hi I just bought a 2002 jeep liberty the only way I have heat is when i'm moving. once I come to a stop, it gets cold right away. srart moving again in traffic and here comes the heat again! Can anyone help me?
Did you ever find out what was causing this. I have also noticed my bottom hose does not heat up idling or driving but heater works if we are moving.
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post #11 of Old 12-01-2015, 06:49 AM
bankrep
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my same problem solved

so I had the same issue, warm air most times- only hot when first switched to max hot and only for a few seconds. Both heater hoses very hot to touch and water flowing. Lower radiator hose cold to touch. Trying to avoid heater core replacement, I replace thermostat, checked water pump output by removing overflow hose from reservoir and running engine(small fire hose), and flushed heater core with CLR and lime away. Finally removed heater core and sawed in half cross-section. Lines looked they were full of mud or chocolate ice cream. Replaced core and now heater runs me out....
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post #12 of Old 03-16-2016, 06:18 PM
Chumly409
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I had this issue recently in an '02 and think I just fixed it. It had sat for two years, the water pump was leaking and replaced, so I flushed it last Summer. I started getting it back on the road again and low heat was observed as ya'll are seeing. Low blower speed it'll be warm but turn it up and it goes back to cool. I pulled the two hoses that feed the heater core and one was dry (the left one) while the other was wet. I ran a common garden hose through it and mud came out but cleared up quickly. I don't think that was the issue but it surely wasn't helping the matters. Here I simply think it had low flow to and from it already and mud just collected.

Staring at the metal tube arrangement that feeds it, I really don't see the core being positively force fed if ANY air is in the core or the lines. Knowing that the core is pretty full after the garden hose flush, I hooked it all back up, topped off the tank (over filled actually) with RO water, and brought it up to temp. When the temp gauge was straight up and down and holding, turned on the heat...much better but not hot. There has to be air in there still. The right heater supply was hot and outlet on the left was still just warm. Top and bottom rad hoses were hot, so I decided to massage the upper hose (just squeezing and letting go). I felt and heard air so I kept massaging it until no more air. At that time I had to grab some welding gloves and really giving it a hard squeeze for about 5 minutes repeating what I'd done before. Using a laser temp meter I then saw the hoses were the same temp finally! Cranked up the heat and like magic it was blazing hot just like it was back in 2002! I ran it for a while longer just to make sure, turned it off, did it again...got heat again. So I think it's fixed. I should also note that about a quart of water from the over-filled tank was used showing that it replaced some air pocket, assuming in the upper rad hose and the rest of what was in the core.

What I think is going on here is that if the tank ever goes empty you run the chance of air-binding the heater core. The bottom of the tank seems to be about an inch lower than the top of the heater core. The water pump will feed the engine block just fine and all seems normal according to the gauge but the two lines that feed the core from the lower passenger side of the engine assembly may not have any motivation to be fed with heated water. I just don't see it being positively fed at all times and situations as the pump isn't positive displacement...it feeds and circulates what part is primed with water while the air bound part may just trickle.

Some notes here just for the curious that are still Googling and finding this thread:

1) I've never been able to get that allen head set screw out of the upper rad hose neck. It's stuck and no impact is getting it off this 14 Jeep. Looking at the assembly to replace that entire section stops me short of stripping out the threads. Water was there and massaging the hose motivated it up and into the upper radiator.

2) The most easy thing to do in a low heat situation is to pull the tank (two 10mm nuts and a few spring clips), Remove the two hoses that go into the firewall (two more spring clips), and run water through it. If water flows, its not clogged. If it's dirty then clears up, it had low flow but still seems good to me. Basically, this is a simple check and no need to replace the heater core if it flows really well...that's not the problem.

3) Heater core replacement costs are quite high and $1,200 does sound right. It's a cheap part but all the money spent is in labor as it usually is when a shop is doing it. It's a PAIN to replace and if 2) is fine, why waste the money? Hate to say it, but our Kelly blue book values are pretty low and can shade tree our way around this pricey (or a very time consuming) replacement job. Just spent $1,200 on a transmission on a $2,500 '95 miata so it comes down to how much you value these aging friends of ours.

4) Keep coolant in the tank! When it goes low, bad things seem to start happening and we get to this point. I've found no less than 10 different forums asking this several times in each on this short era of Jeep KJ's. I had a 15yo learning to drive, never mentioned it had no heat but made sure it had oil and tires were up to pressure...so that's good. The tank got low in my case and think that's where it all started. As stated, the tank gets stained and the "full" level is at the seam of the tank. Pulse the upper rad hose to see the level change. Just looking at the tank can leave you simply looking at a stain when it's dry. See 6)

5) That lower hose with a spring inside is very common, even back in '60s model vehicles. That's the suction side of the pump and it can collapse without it. If you don't feel one, the hose has been replaced and the "mechanic" didn't put the spring back in. Get a spring in there! The top doesn't need it because it's under pressure, not suction.

6) Parts are not being made for this anymore and it's a search to find replacement parts like the reservoir tank. I've tried to clean it with no luck and it's a heck of a search to find one to replace it. That airhose from the filter box to the inlet resonator? Mine cracked in '07. Nope, can't get a replacement...finally got sick of monthly duct tape fixes and bought an AEM intake kit. Not to be cool or expect 800HP gains, but I had too because I can't find that $50 part that keeps dirt out of my engine. Point being, it was available in '07 and we need to stay on top of these things. If you can find a new tank now, I'd do so before we suck them up and we're off to ebay knockoff items.

7) Hope this TL/DR post helps. This is the best thread I've found and figured since we're still searching for this problem I'd pour it out here and attempt to add to it with my thoughts.
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post #13 of Old 03-16-2016, 09:28 PM
tanyab
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intermittent heat

I recently had radiator fluid replaced (hopefully it wasn't a flush) by a franchise shop.
After that I had intermittent heat, but it only blew warm air for less than a minute.
I discovered that the underlying issue was because they didn't FILL it up! It was almost a gallon under filled.
Check your fluids
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post #14 of Old 03-17-2016, 05:26 PM
tjkj2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tanyab View Post
I recently had radiator fluid replaced (hopefully it wasn't a flush) by a franchise shop.
After that I had intermittent heat, but it only blew warm air for less than a minute.
I discovered that the underlying issue was because they didn't FILL it up! It was almost a gallon under filled.
Check your fluids
Coolant flush is only recommended by Chrysler.Just draining the system only replaces maybe half the coolant.

'02 Liberty sitting on 35" tires,HP44,RockJock60,and AtlasII t-case
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post #15 of Old 03-19-2016, 10:21 AM
02blue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tanyab View Post
I recently had radiator fluid replaced (hopefully it wasn't a flush) by a franchise shop.
After that I had intermittent heat, but it only blew warm air for less than a minute.
I discovered that the underlying issue was because they didn't FILL it up! It was almost a gallon under filled.
Check your fluids
Hopefully they used HOAT coolant for the "replacement". That universal stuff isn't recommended for the KJ.

"Hey, ya never know til you try." Kurt Russell-Big Trouble in Little China
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