Putting new rotors and pads all the way around. Couldn't get rotors on rear over the parking brake (see other thread). Turns out there was a piece of the assembly that actuated the parking brake that was fused together by rust.
While trying to remove that part I broke loose the 4 bolts that hold the backing plate on. This is where the problem comes in.
One of the 4 studs broke off while I was taking the nut off. It's not a traditional bolt and I don't really know what I have to do replace it. Could really use some help on this one. You can see in the photos the top bolt and the missing bottom bolt. The other photo shows the back side with the bolt heads.
Either go to a good parts store and see if they can scrounge up a stud for it, or get it at the dealer; or get a hardened steel bolt and use that. It will be metric most likely, so 10.9 hardness bolts and nuts.
Thanks street glide. I guess my question is though HOW do I replace the stud though? I'm not sure what kind of bolt that is. It doesn't have a hex head on it. How is it held in place? Do I have to drill it out? If I drill it out it looks like I will have to pull the axle to get to it. See photos. Appreciate any suggestions.
Looks just like a wheel stud, it's pressed in(not hydraulic press or anything) and has splines to make it bite. Beat the old one out and put new one in. It's there to hold the bracket to the axle tube, so as long as you have at least a bolt of proper diameter and grade of hardness, you should be ok. May be easier with axle shaft removed though.
Those studs don't seem to be listed in the parts catalog (I have the 2005 one) for either the parking brake or the rear axle, but the nuts are listed as .375-24, Parking Brake Adapter to Axle Housing, Mounting - so presumably you need a .375-24 wheel stud (or as streetglideok says, a bolt, which may be easier to find).
Hey guys...Appreciate the help. I went to my local stealership and they got me the part number. For those that may run across this same problem (Lord I hope not) it is 6036556AA. They wanted $6 each (there are 4) for these. While I was standing at the counter, I looked it up on my phone and they run about $2.80 each online. Went ahead and ordered online...Can't justify spending the extra money to buy from them. Decided that I would do all 4, assuming they come out fairly easily. Would hate to go through the trouble of pulling the axle, replacing just the one stud, and then breaking one of the other 3 off while putting it back together. They didn't have a part listed for the nut. AVR, do you have a part number for that nut?
My neighbor was thinking there would be a way to get it out without taking the axle off, but I just don't see it happening. You're going to have to have exert a lot of force on that and the only way I see that happening is with an BFH or an air hammer.
It might come out easier than you think. PB blaster it. You can try a pry bar against the back of the axle. You can use a good amount of force but don't get crazy on it. I don't know what holds these axles in place. Next best bet will be to remove the axle shaft and use a bfh. Put the correct size nut on the end and try to make it flush with the end of the bolt. You are trying to avoid mushrooming it so that the end doesn't fit through the hole.
82 Cherokee WT - SOA/SF/agr box/Borgeson ujoint steering shaft/401/performer/holley TA/HEI/BeCool/727/np208/d44(aussie)/amc20(ARB)/BFG 35X12.5/Corbeau Moab Seats/RCI 6point Harness,Hella Aux lights/tuffy console/killer32 slider bars/custom bumpers and roll bar/Alpine head unit/amps/speakers 2002 Liberty Limited Early edition - Basically stock
OK guys, I got the axle out this weekend and the bolts out, however, it wasn't without incident. To get the axle out, I had to pull the differential cover and drain the fluid. I then had to remove a bolt, drop a pin out, and pull a C clip to free the axle...Problem was that I broke the bolt holding the pin (see photo below). Had a hard time getting the bolt out due to the angle and the tight working quarters. Finally got it out, got the pin and axle out and then used a hammer to get the axle bolts out. Problem is that Jeep doesn't service just the bolt, so I'm not sure how I'm going to replace it.
Junkyard's always an option, you should be able to get it out of any vehicle with a Chrysler 8.25 axle, but according to the 2005 KJ parts catalog, it's part #03507724, SCREW, Hex Head, .312-18x1.80
The dealer ought to be able to order it, otherwise some online Mopar dealers list it, others don't. This place seems to have it: Mopar Parts Overstock
If you go the junkyard route, remember you can rotate the diff case to get the bolt into position so you can get cleanly onto it with a socket. Best way is usually to disconnect the driveshaft at the pinion, and then turn the flange by hand.
Right after I made my original post, I found a schematic of the differential and ordered the part. Took almost 2 weeks to get and it turned out to be the WRONG part. Extremely frustrating. Ordering parts from fuzzy schematics gets really frustrating when you have to wait 2 weeks to find out it was the wrong part. I went and reviewed the part number you provided (which was different), and ordered it...Guess I'll just play the waiting game again. Decided to go ahead and replace the bearings and oil seals while I had the axles out. Jeep has 138K...Don't know that the bearings were bad, but with that many miles and it already apart, makes since to go ahead and do the job.
On the plus side, I got the axle bolts replaced with little trouble. I decided to replace all 4 while I had it apart. Just ended up pushing the replacement bolts in as far as I could by hand, then put the nuts on the bolts and it seated them perfectly. The picture shows the new bolts installed along with the bearings and grease seals. Had to end up pulling the nuts back off again though as I forgot to install the rubber dust boot at the top of the picture that protects the parking brake actuator.
I'll let you know how it comes out with the other part. Thanks for your help.
Bearings were easy to replace. I borrowed a puller and slide hammer from my local parts store...Took all of about 30 seconds to get each bearing out...The oil seals took the longest...had to bend them and pull them out with pliers...
My new bolt is shipping today. I exchanged a few emails and pictures of the broken bolt with the supplier...They said it looks the same, so I'm cautiously optimistic.
I wouldn't mind painting the old rusty parts, but that would likely turn this large project into something even larger. I might end up doing that sort of thing a little down the line, but I really need to get this Jeep on the road. Going to be moving soon and don't want to have to deal with an immobile Jeep on top of all the other stuff I'll have to move.
The frame could really use a nice coat of paint, but not sure that I want to tackle the project of pulling the body off right now.
The oil seals took the longest...had to bend them and pull them out with pliers...
Any reason why you couldn't just get the slide hammer in and pull out the bearing and seal together? That's what Haynes suggests, but that might be generic advice that doesn't necessarily work for the KJ axles.