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Unread 10-14-2005, 12:09 AM   #1
russu6
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mobil 1 full synthetic oil

i did my 1st oil change and i put mobil 1 full synthetic oil extended performance just wanted to know they say 15,000 miles good to drive on but i know thats bs you know what i mean what do you guys say and does it matter how many months you go driving on it because i dont put that many miles, it will be like 5,000 miles a year only thanks for your help

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Unread 10-14-2005, 05:53 AM   #2
brandoncrone
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Honestly, I don't care what the synthetic oil manufacturers say about their oil essentially lasting forever. Most people don't stop to think, Mobil 1 and every other synthetic oil is still just that, crude dinosaur oil. The only thing man made about it and synthetic is the additive package that goes into it. Huge marketing scheme. There are 4 levels of oil refinement, 1 being your cheap grocery store, or middle of nowhere no name brands, 4 being whats used in 'synthetic' oils. Yes you are still better protecting your engine, but I would still change it every 3K miles, or in your case maybe once in the spring and fall. The synthetic oil can't stop the acids that are put into the oil from normal combustion process. The oil is still breaking down, granted it may take longer with syn oil, but its still happening.

No pun intended just wanted to clear the air! I run synthetic oil, actually helps a little with my fuel economy. Only 1mpg on the highway, its small but it helps at $3 a gallon!
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Unread 10-14-2005, 10:29 AM   #3
Ufutsnuget
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Honestly, I don't care what the synthetic oil manufacturers say about their oil essentially lasting forever. Most people don't stop to think, Mobil 1 and every other synthetic oil is still just that, crude dinosaur oil. The only thing man made about it and synthetic is the additive package that goes into it.

Do you know what you are talking about? Where are your facts? Synthetic oil does not come from Dino oil?
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Unread 10-14-2005, 10:31 AM   #4
press2meco
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brandoncrone, Group IV base oils are chemically engineered synthetic base stocks and do not contain, as you say, "crude dinosaur oil". There are a number of motor oils comprised of Group III hydroprocessed mineral base stocks that meet the requirements of a Group IV oil. These oils are permitted to be called "Synthetic Oil" although they are not actually synthetic.
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Unread 10-14-2005, 10:33 AM   #5
chrispitude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandoncrone
Honestly, I don't care what the synthetic oil manufacturers say about their oil essentially lasting forever. Most people don't stop to think, Mobil 1 and every other synthetic oil is still just that, crude dinosaur oil. The only thing man made about it and synthetic is the additive package that goes into it. Huge marketing scheme. There are 4 levels of oil refinement, 1 being your cheap grocery store, or middle of nowhere no name brands, 4 being whats used in 'synthetic' oils. Yes you are still better protecting your engine, but I would still change it every 3K miles, or in your case maybe once in the spring and fall. The synthetic oil can't stop the acids that are put into the oil from normal combustion process. The oil is still breaking down, granted it may take longer with syn oil, but its still happening.
Of course it comes from crude. The reason it's synthetic is that its composition is man-made - or more accurately, man-controlled. The random hydrocarbon chain lengths in crude are broken down and reformed into the desired distribution of chain lengths. This allows the properties of the resulting oil to be very precisely controlled.

Here's an analogy which might help. Dig up lots and lots of earth. You'll have some big rocks, small rocks, loam topsoil, shale, clay, etc. Now separate each of these into bins using sorters and screeners. Now we can get rid of the big rocks, and fabricate precisely the ratio of clay, topsoil, and shale we want to get the organic and drainage properties we want. Did it come from plain old earth? Of course. But through manipulation by man, we've made it better than it comes in its natural state.

Regarding the acids building up in the oils, this is precisely what the additive packages are neutralizing. Ask the average trucker how long he goes between oil changes. They laugh at the 3000 mile oil change myth. It's perpetuated by all of the people who make money off it - the oil companies, the dealerships, the lube places...

With synthetic oil, it's safe to go 8k-10k miles between changes as long as the engine is in good tune and not washing down the cylinder walls with unburned gasoline.

- Chris
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Unread 10-14-2005, 11:29 AM   #6
europachris
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I've run synthetic oils in our vehicles for over a decade now. I bought a '93 Saturn new, and ran Mobil-1 after about 3K miles of dino oil. I sold it a few years ago with 156K on the clock, and the inside of the valve cover area looked as good as the day it was new, still clean shiny aluminum under the oil. It also ran as good as new with almost zero oil consumption and no leaks.

I started with 3K oil changes, and gradually moved up to 10K oil changes. Only time the oil ever came out really nasty was during the winter with a lot of short trips. You could smell the junk that collected and didn't have a chance to burn off.

I have since bought a VW TDI Jetta and run Mobil Delvac-1 diesel-specific oil. VW specifies 10K oil change intervals, and that's what I run. I'm at 80K miles, and it runs great, uses no oil, and doesn't leak a drop.

I also run Delvac in the wife's CRD, and will change it every 10K miles. I think Jeep specifies 12.5K intervals. However, I also like to change oil every 6 months. We used to have longer commutes to work, so we racked up miles pretty fast. Now, our drives are shorter (especially hers) so it might take a year to go 10K miles. I won't leave oil in that long, synthetic or not.

The big difference with synthetic is the resistance to thermal breakdown. Just like the Mobil-1 commercial with the frying pan. I'm sure everyone has heard all the horror stories of sludging engines for Toyota? There are a few other engines with this problem. This protects the turbo bearings on our cars after shutdown, and also (at least on the Jetta) the top piston ring land, which is very close to the top of the piston for emissions control. With dino oil, this ring will quickly become stuck due to the oil coking up from the heat of combustion.

There are usually lively debates on tdiclub.com regarding oils. Usually it's Ams*il vs. the rest. Other places, it's synthetic vs. dino. I've had good luck with both types of oil, but with Mobil-1, the engine wearing out is the least of my worries. Usually, the car is going to fall apart long before the engine. Not to mention, synthetic oil flows much better at cold temps, and here in the upper Midwest, getting your car started at -10F or colder can be a real challenge.

Chris
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Unread 10-14-2005, 12:48 PM   #7
smilie1
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Synthetic/petro

I hope that before everybody gets bogged down in the oil patch they would read up on this subject.A few years ago,Castrol was taken to court by Mobil and others on the subject of hydro-cracking mineral oil and calling it synthetic as opposed to the poly-alpha olifin made from other sources.The court ruled that legally it was a synthetic and they could advertise it as such.Well,I don't think the judge made a chemically sound decision as far as I'm concerned,but I vote at the store as I have for about 25 years.I would have to say from personal experience that the PAO oils are better in the temperature resistance department as well as the friction and film strength areas.I will admit that for the most part,any oil with the proper additive package and viscosity will do just fine if changed regularly.However, in extremis[high load and high temps] the PAO oils will hold on a lot longer,and could save an engine or gear-set from lack of lubrication.I have been using the Mobil Truck/SUV 5-40 lately.It is rated as a CI-4 which is several steps higher than the CF listed in the manual.Well I have to get moving,the tractor and some tall Bahia are calling me, and I've used up all my excuses with the O/L.See ya.
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Unread 10-14-2005, 02:10 PM   #8
Silver Streak
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I use Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 in my CRD, because it is the only oil i have found readily available that is fully rated API Service CI-4 Plus. The Plus designation means it has superior soot control capabilities. Heavy duty diesel engine manufacturers found out in `02 when they introduced engines to meet the standards for the `04 production year, that a water cooled EGR system created a problem due to increased soot production. Take the time to inform yourself, you can find some good inforamation at the API site itself, and maybe better information at motor oil sites as well. I found a link on another list to some heavy fleet tech info that specifically relates to this issue.
The Plus factor in a CI-4 Plus motor oil enables some real advantages, they are certainly worth looking into. I used Mobil1 5W-40 on my first oil change at 3000 miles, but since then have changed oil twice with the Shell Rotella T 5W-40 that is Plus rated. The Plus factor was created specifically to deal with the EGR problems we now have. I cannot figure why DC doesn't urge us to use a CI-4 Plus oil in our engines. Maybe it is about what they have prepackaged and available at their dealership parts network. I know they have the Mobil1 for some of there other vehicles already.

American Petroleum Institute info about Plus rating:
5. CI-4 PLUS: Used in conjunction with API CI-4, the “CI-4 PLUS” designation identifies oils formulated to provide a higher level of protection against soot-related viscosity increase and viscosity loss due to shear in diesel engines. Like Energy Conserving, CI-4 PLUS appears in the lower portion of the API Service Symbol “Donut.”

Fleetowner.com info on CI-4 Plus oils:
Another benefit to CI-4 PLUS oil is that it's designed to handle potentially longer drain intervals, according to Alex Bolkhovsky, commercial vehicle technical advisor for ExxonMobil.

“This oil is designed to offer more viscosity control, greater soot loading capability, and better shear stability,” he says. “Shear stability and soot handling are the real benefits to a fleet trying to go to extended drains post-'02, as well as giving them a little more peace of mind that the oil can handle the EGR environment.”


This is good information if one is considering what motor oil to purchase. Since the Exxon-Mobil engineer is quoted favorably about the Plus rating, the Delvac product they offer must in fact be Plus rated. I did not find any Mobil1 that is CI-4 Plus rated. So i went to the Shell product for my CRD. I expect many fleet motor oils are in fact CI-4 Plus rated, but we need a 5W-40 for our CRDs. There may be others that meet the standard, but for my CRD, i am going with the Plus rating for sure.

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Unread 10-14-2005, 03:13 PM   #9
press2meco
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While Rotella Synthetic is a good oil (I swear by Rotella T in my Cummins), it's one of those Group III mineral oils masquerading as a Group IV, true synthetic. Next time, try Mobil1 Truck and SUV. It's re-badged Delvac1 that's been slightly tweaked for lighter vehicles and is a much better oil for a few dollars more.
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Unread 10-14-2005, 04:25 PM   #10
Silver Streak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by press2meco
While Rotella Synthetic is a good oil (I swear by Rotella T in my Cummins), it's one of those Group III mineral oils masquerading as a Group IV, true synthetic. Next time, try Mobil1 Truck and SUV. It's re-badged Delvac1 that's been slightly tweaked for lighter vehicles and is a much better oil for a few dollars more.
I purchased some of the Mobil1 the first time i changed my oil, and used it. But it doesn't have the Plus rating. It would seem to me if it met the standard to be a Plus rated oil Mobil1 would surely have it proudly displayed on the bottle. The Plus rating is specifically to deal with the water cooled EGR issues in a turbocharged diesel. I feel certain that changing it at 5K miles, the Shell will certainly hold up for me, even if the base stock is not quite as good as the Mobil base stock.

Maybe the Delvac is Plus rated, i have not found it on the store shelf anywhere to look, but i know the Shell Rotella is. I am not a Shell fan, i have used Mobil1 for years and in fact use it in my wife's Chrysler as well. I am sure there must be other Plus rated 5W-40 diesel oils out there, but i have not found them yet.

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Unread 10-14-2005, 05:42 PM   #11
fireman1028
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http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...ac_1_5W-40.asp

Caterpillar Synthetic Oil is the same as Delvac 1, but at a cheaper price.
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Unread 10-14-2005, 08:03 PM   #12
Panda
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You are correct, Delvac 1 is CI-4 PLUS rated.
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Unread 10-14-2005, 09:02 PM   #13
oldnavy
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Factory fill for CRD is Mobil 1 0w-40 and is the recommended oil followed by Mobil 1 5w-40 or any oil meeting ACEA A3, B3/B4 or API SM/CF standards.

For those who do not know, Mobil 1 Truck & SUV is the same oil as the Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 oil.

I use the Mobil 1 0w-40 in my Magnum and used the Mobil 1 T & SUV in my MB & VW diesels in the past as well as Delvac 1 5w-40 oil.
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Unread 10-17-2005, 01:09 AM   #14
Watty
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I did a survey in trying to find the best overall oil to use in my CRD. After some research and asking the right questions, I decided to use Caltex Delo 400 Multigrade.

Delo 400 is the first world oil to meet the Global DHD-1 specification, provides unsurpassed protection in all equipment including Japanese, European of North American makes whether they are old or new. It also meets CI-4 Plus and a host of other standards. Specifically designed for the latest electronically controlled diesel engines experiencing high soot loading, Delo 400 is formulated with unique ISOSYN™ technology, a combination of special base oils and advanced additive technology, to provide exceptional soot dispersancy, deposit control and wear protection.

Hope this info is of use

Caltex Delo 400 Spec sheet
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Unread 10-17-2005, 08:30 AM   #15
oldnavy
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That oil is not currentlly available in the US and neither in the Mobil 1 synthetic that's in the same formulation. It's main use is in diesels with partical traps, and there is none in the US as yet. I think '09 is the requirement year for the partical traps in the US cars.
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