[alane]

Newbie on board and I searched all areas for same problem as described in one of the post in technical help, but figured it should be more model directed, so..this post.
I am getting blank stares from dealership garage mechanics, so far....
40k miles service
new front pads, new rear pads, new rear discs.
Service done the week before christmas.
Temperature here in north west UK has been hovering around 0C/32F so nothing drastic. Dipped to maybe -6C overnight. Don't know if that is relevant, but it may be.

On drive back from dealers all was well, no strange noises et cetera. Brakes performed very well.

Following day (wifey) reversed off drive OK. Started forwards and klunking noise from rear wheels area. Stops car, drives forwards again and klunking noise still there kind of in time with wheel rotation.
After about 4th/5th hard brake (including using hand brake a couple of times) the klunking has disappeared. Hmmmm, checked wheels and brakes and all are fixed and not loose.

Car drives fine for rest of day.

And so the same happens each morning (bearing in mind the car is in regular use during day ferrying stuff around so it never kind of cools down far enough I am guessing).

Back at dealers but seeing as dealers is a few miles from home, by the time I get there the noise has once again disappeared.
I insists on dealer coming out to home first thing following morning to witness for himself - which he does and agrees it appears to be related to brakes.
He suggests could be bedding in of new drum/disc assembly so try it over couple of days and ring back in new year.

On my seldom day off (new years day Yay..happy new year ) I jacks the rear left up and find I cannot rotate the wheel easily with transmission in neutral - should I be able to?

Takes car for drive (klunk, klunk, klunk, quiet) and then jacks wheel up again. Still can't rotate without wheel brace on it.

Not a happy bunny.

Anyone got any suggestions before I trade in for motorbike (KTM looks nice).

Thanks

oh yeah, being newbie - virtual pint on me.

rear disc assembly numbers:
BOSCH WF9 MIN DISC THK 11.0MM
411AA 8E19 0 204 202 910
MAX DRUM DIA 184.7MM

[merlinTec]

Hi
O.M.G this is from a Jeep dealer? Defiantly not my dealership. Call you dealer and point out T.S.B 05-004-06 REV.A this is a known issue and this T.S.B should fix it.
Regards,
Merlin

[alane]

Many thanks for that Merlin.
Like someone once said, the questions easy..if you know the answer.

Cheers
Alan

[Mountie]

Hi Alane,
Depends on what KTM you were looking at, LC8 well then maybe worth a trade... lol

[alane]

LC8 looks very nice, specially in the supermoto tour edition. don't know if they'll take a jeep against it though.

BOT, the TBS as advised from Merlin seems to refer to moaning brake when pressed, but the problem I am getting is klunking brake when setting off, so not so sure now that the tbs would resolve it?

[merlinTec]

Originally Posted by alane

BOT, the TBS as advised from Merlin seems to refer to moaning brake when pressed, but the problem I am getting is klunking brake when setting off, so not so sure now that the tbs would resolve it?

Hi
I bet it does have I had it sooo many times. Before you drive it in the morning just move it just a bit and you will see marks from where the pads have been sat over night on the disc ether on the outside of the disc or the inside. It is this that the pads are catching on when you drive and as soon as it takes this off this the noise goes.
Regards,
Merlin

[Mountie]

It's the same problem I posted about a while back I noticed it after the KJ sat overnight after me washing it. I guess a small amount of rust built up on the disc and was catching the pads. BUT it was more noticable when I gently tapped the brake pedal.
Regards,

[alane]

Has been in dealership overnight so as to not disturb anything before the first 100 yards this morning.
First thing they did was drive it the 20yards or so from the parking spot straight into the service bay and the noise was pretty much evident.
On strip down of brakes it became evident that the (and this is the dealers words from what I remember) 2 pins(?) which hold the brake pads in place in the caliper were incorrectly transposed?
Is there a castelated nut on one of them at rear of the pad which should have been at the fore of the pad area?
Not having a schematic or never having stripped the calipers I can't quite visualise the possibuility for error.

All is allegedly fixed now with no damage to any parts. Shall wait and see.

[merlinTec]

Hi
Are you saying the bolts were cross threaded? There are no pins just 2 bolts and no castle nuts.
Regards,
Merlin

[alane]

They said nothing about being cross threaded, just that they had the front in the rear and the rear in the front (makes no sense to me without knowing what they look like).
Is there a difference between the front and rear bolts that would make that much of a difference?

[merlinTec]

Originally Posted by alane

They said nothing about being cross threaded, just that they had the front in the rear and the rear in the front (makes no sense to me without knowing what they look like).
Is there a difference between the front and rear bolts that would make that much of a difference?

Nope 2 bolts both the same and it would be top and bottom.
Out of interest what part number are on your invoice?
05083882AF pads
52128411AB rotors (discs)

[alane]

the disc assembly is
BOSCH WF9 MIN DISC THK 11.0MM
411AA 8E19 0 204 202 910
MAX DRUM DIA 184.7MM

I'll check the pads when I find the invoice.

[alane]

bump -
From the invoice:
05083882AF - PAD KIT DISC BRAKE
52128411AB - ROTOR BRAKE

was back in to investigate the klunking and complete assemblies stripped, greased, reassembled.
Drove fine for about 7 days....then noise re-appears.

Car is back in for caliper replacement in a couple of days time. Can't say as I am at all happy with the calibre of mechanics working in the dealership - letter to Chrysler is on the cards.

[merlinTec]

Hi
I was thinking you had this fixed. Going by the parts you have had you now only need the anti rattle strap 2 x 52128868AB I advice you do this anyway it is only about £2 each. That’s if your dealer has fitted the longer calliper slippers that come with the pad kit and your outer brake pad doesn’t have a spring clip on the bottom (have seen some dealer take this clip off the old pads and fit it to the new ones, it’s off for a reason). Could be a calliper but would think you brake you be getting hot when driven if it was sticking.
Best of luck,
Regards,
Merlin

[VMF]

i had this same problem on my 1996 lexus LS with all oem parts, turned out that shims were not installed and that the brake pads were in fact directional. fixed it for me