Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

Ignition Switch Problem

95K views 38 replies 23 participants last post by  Tobes 
#1 ·
I went to start my Jeep and the key turns forward but it feels "empty", like nothing is catching or there and of course wont start. The acc. lights come on and wont turn off by removing the key so I disconnected the batt.
I took out the ignition/key cylinder and tried to start it with a screw driver and nothing. Feels the same as when the key cylinder is in.
So my question is, is there some thing I can do to reset or repair in some way? Or do I replace the parts? And finally, if I replace the Ignition Switch Actuator Pin, would this solve the problem?
Thanks in advance!!
 
#2 ·
Sounds like the ignition switch actuator pin is broken...there are many threads on this problem but the main thing is to not believe the Dealers when they tell you that you cannot buy the pin itself but have to buy the whole steering column assembly.

Remove the two plastic covers around the steering column by removing the two Torx screws from underneath. You will see the ignition switch...lots of wires coming out...screwed to the steering column at the base of the key cylinder. It is held on by a small "security" Torx screw ie. you need the male Torx bit with a hole in the middle to remove it.
Remove this screw and pull off the ignition switch...you will probably now see the broken actuator pin which is a rectangular piece of plastic or metal with a hole down the middle.
To start your KJ, insert key in the lock so as to undo the steering lock and if you have the SKIM security you need the key with its chip inserted into the key slot.
Using a small flat screwdriver you can now turn the ignition switch to start the engine.
If this is your problem...report back here to get links on where to get the actuator pin at the best price.:)
 
#5 ·
Glad you fixed it:)

I have no problems with my 2002 CRD but obviously the age is not what causes the pin to break but rather the number of times the key is turned.;)

Most of my mileage in our Jeep has been achieved on long trips on the freeways and nowadays the Jeep sits parked in the Garage most of the time and is only taken out occasionaly for maybe a trip into the nearby Game Park.

I need to nurse this CRD as it has to last me many more years and so we use a little BMW E30 as our daily drive!:)
 
#8 ·
Hi,

I think I may have the same issue here.

Does anyone know where you can buy this part in the UK (without being fleeced by the dealerships) - is it only salvage or are there any UK distributors for Dorman as per their YouTube video on the topic?

Many thanks :thumbsup:
 
#10 ·
Ok, so I unscrewed the ignition switch and the broken bit of the actuator pin fell out confirming the no start issue (I can now start the Jeep with a screwdriver when the key is in the barrel).

However, in order to get into the other side of the column to replace this part, as explained in the post above the lockshield is in the way. Is there any other way to replace this without first removing/destroying the lockshield?

Ideas welcome, thanks! :thankyou:
 
#11 ·
Have you tried your friend Google?;)

Obviously you do not have access to the previous owner......have you tried contacting the suppliers of the Lockshield. Otherwise you will need to hack out the Lockshield or find a complete steering column assembly...with keys...from a breaker yard.:confused:
 
#12 · (Edited)
Hi Billwill,

Thanks for the reply.

Google was how I found the video explaining how to replace the pin, which looked quite easy - it's just annoying that there's another hurdle in the lockshield!

Not sure if I can post a link but this is the company whose product it is, and all emails are bouncing back unfortunately - http://www.kiltech.co.uk/about_lockshield.htm

Is it a big job to cut out? Do you expect this to count as a modification for insurance purposes? :confused:

Thanks again
 
#13 ·
I have no information about this Lockshield product as we do not get it here in SA.....anything can be cut out using a small angle grinder.

If needs be you can disconnect your battery and remove the complete steering column to take to an Engineering Works to remove the Lockshield assembly. You will need a small wheel-puller to pull off the steering wheel....make careful note of how the clock spring under the Steering Wheel Boss is fitted.....the spring will unwind itself as you remove it and when you re-fit it you need to line up a "flag" inside a clear plastic window on the clock spring assembly when re-fitting....do not try to remove the complete steering shaft assembly without first removing the steering wheel and clockspring .:(
 
#14 ·
A quick google reveals the lockshield is a thatcham approved device so may help with vehicle security and insurance premiums when fitted. It seems it is fitted with with four counter sunk allen head screws which then have ball bearings knocked into the allen recess and glue over the top. If you can pick the bearings out of the recess it should be fairly easy to remove. If you can't do that you either need to try and remove the head of the screws with a drill or die grinder, or cut/saw the bracket off. If the screws can be removed you can obviously refit the shield.
 
#15 ·
Jeep ignition problems

I went out to start my 06 Jeep Liberty one afternoon and nothing happened. It wouldn't start. It wouldn't even make a sound. No clicking, no turn over. The battery worked fine, windows, radio, lights, etc. It almost felt like the key wouldn't turn far enough to turn it on. So after exhausting most options, I had it towed to a mechanic. He said it was the ignition switch and that inorder to replace it I had to replace the entire steering column. Around $650. I had a minor melt down and called the Jeep dealership. They said the same thing, only now it was up to $1000. They even said they had one in right now for the same thing. Feeling unhappy and broke. I googled Jeep ignition switch problems and it lead me to this site, and thank god it did. You do not have to replace the entire steering column, you need a $39.99 ignition actuator pin kit from any auto parts store. There is a you tube video that shows step by step how to replace it. Had I not googled it I wouldn've spent $610 more dollars. DO NOT LISTEN TO THEM TELL YOU TO REPLACE THE WHOLE STEERING COLUMN! I just did this today and my Jeep is fine. Starts right up. Try this first, if anything you are only out 40 bucks. Follow the links that the other ppl have posted to the youtube video and the actual part. I have never posted on anything like this before, but felt I had to after what it did for me!!!! So thank you for posting people!!!!!!
 
#16 ·
k I thought I ought register and at least thank vry1 for their efforts in posting and taking their time to describe the ins and outs of this problem.

At 11am I received a call from my wife saying her Jeep would not start. 8 people at the camping site saying it was the starter motor after having worked on it for 4 hours.
After a couple of choice questions (thankfully I have trained my wife to get as much information as possible) I determined it was NOT starter before I even left to get her.
Stuck 10.6 miles up a mountain road, 100 miles from our home ... 2 hours diagnosing left me at the Ignition switch / Safety interlocks at the steering column .. or maybe the
Park/Neutral switch internally in the tranny. Towed her back ... owing to lack of tools brought with me ... I mean you can only go so far.

Next day ... 1 hour forum trowelling .... 20 mins work ... 1 T10 Torx security bit .. I never had with me up the mountain .. and Voila.
Broken Ignition Switch Actuator Pin. $42.00 from Napa.

TY ALL !

I am a Mechanic by trade ... and had eliminated ... Fuses / Relays / Starter Motor / Park Switch / Brake Switch.
Neutral safety switch and Ignition were all that were left.

My advice ....

IF YOU OWN ONE OF THESE LIBERTIES ... Pack the Torx bits and a flat head screwdriver in your Jeep so you can at least get
the ignition pack off the side of the steering column to get her home.

$300 Towing bill .. and freewheeling the Jeep 10.6miles down a mountain road with no power was NOT fun lol !

TY again
 
#19 ·
Hi willrich,

I got mine from Amazon as per link below (hope posting a link is ok on forum?)

It did take about a month from USA (I live in England) as I guess they wait until they have a number of items to send to save on shipping costs and assume they can ship to SA in the same way?

All in all it was around $43 (£27) for switch, shipping&handling and import fees which was quite a result, compared to the whole steering column being offered by the dealers! :highfive:

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-70...qid=1382476131&sr=1-1&keywords=dorman+924-704
 
#22 ·
determined that I needed to replace ignition switch actuator pin in 2012 Jeep Liberty Sport. Great video by Dorman on utube but steering column configuration is different. Cannot for the life of me, find the tang to push on the key cylinder in order to remove that. Is the 2012 different?
 
#24 ·
My wife has a 2006 Liberty with the same problem. It also needs a window regulator and some other repairs but the ingnition switch was my biggest fear. After reading this thread I decided to test my local dealership. Vern Laures Auto in New Hampton, IA, I went in describing the issue and asked about what to buy to remedy it. They know me and that I work on my own stuff. Because of the honesty of our parts guy, I ordered a new switch from the dealer for $ 45 and it will be here Tuesday. They actually honestly do know what you need to fix this issue!!!! Anything other than the truth is fraud/theft.
 
#25 ·
Ignition switch/actuator pin

We are having the same issue with our 2006 liberty. We're pretty sure it's the actuator pin that's broken, but the thing is... There are no torx screws on top to remove so we can get to the ignition switch. We can't find screws anywhere! What can we do?
 
#27 ·
You need to first remove the two plastic covers surrounding the steering column...needs a male Torx bit to remove the two screws from underneath.

Then you will see the ignition switch connected to the actuator assembly by one smaller Torx screw on the side as you face the steering column from the LH side ie. it is mounted vertically not on top. On the newer KJs like yours this small Torx screw is a "security" screw in that you need a male Torx bit that has to center "drilled" out.

Get this correct security bit, unscrew the Torx screw and the ignition switch is then clipped off the end of the actuator assembly....if any small pieces fall out then you need a new actuator pin assembly....you can start the Jeep by making sure the ignition key is in its normal slot...to unlock the steering and enable the SKIM/SKREEM security system and make sure you are in Park.
Then turn the ignition switch by means of a small flat screwdriver.;)
 
#28 ·
08 jeep security module

I have a jeep 08 that started to have problems with starting when it wanted to, and it was so intermitent that it was hard to solve. Replaced battery, replaced starter, replaced battery terminals. Took it to the shop and found it had a security system installed. Never new it was installed. Dealer must have installed it when it was new. Now could this have been the cause of the intermitent starting? This seems to be very common in the jeeps, so was he right that this might have been the problem? right now the jeep is working, but it might be that it just wants to start.
 
#29 ·
I have a jeep 08 that started to have problems with starting when it wanted to, and it was so intermitent that it was hard to solve. Replaced battery, replaced starter, replaced battery terminals. Took it to the shop and found it had a security system installed. Never new it was installed. Dealer must have installed it when it was new. Now could this have been the cause of the intermitent starting? This seems to be very common in the jeeps, so was he right that this might have been the problem? right now the jeep is working, but it might be that it just wants to start.
Hey durango16,

TSB 08-003-08 may relate to your vehicle:

SUBJECT:
Hard Start/No Start Due to Weak Battery
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves checking for ignition off power draw caused by the radio and if
necessary replace the radio.
MODELS:
2008 (HB) Durango
2008 (HG) Aspen
2008 (JS) Sebring/Avenger
2008 (JK) Wrangler
2008 (KA) Nitro
2008 (KK) Liberty
2008 (LE) 300C/300C Touring (International Markets)
2008 (LX) 300/Magnum/Charger
2008 (ND) Dakota
2008 (RT) Town & Country/Grand Caravan/Grand
Voyager (U.S. and International Markets)
2008 (WH) Grand Cherokee (International Markets)
2008 (WK) Grand Cherokee
2008 (XH) Commander (International Markets)
2008 (XK) Commander
NOTE: This bulletin applies to the above listed vehicles equipped with a MYGIG
radio (sales code REN, REP, RER, REW or REZ) built before February 8, 2008
(MDH 0208XX).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Vehicle operator may experience weak or dead battery condition. This may be caused by
the radio not powering down properly and keeping the communication buss awake causing
a parasitic battery draw.

Please let me know if you have any further questions.
 
#30 ·
Ignition switch problem

I saw your reply JeepCares,and I wish I could say that was the problem, but I can't. The battery has 12 volts and their is no drain down. Ater reading a number of forums it seem their are a number of people that have this problem or somewhere in between. I have been on the NTSB web site and wrote this up. I was surprise that no one else has brought this up so thay can get Chryler to at least think about caring. I would like to think that enough people write this problem up the NTSB has to at least say they may have a problem. The sad thing is, this may not be in the ignition. It could be anywhere in the starting curcuit, to the nutrual/park on the trans. or who knows where.
 
#31 ·
I saw your reply JeepCares,and I wish I could say that was the problem, but I can't. The battery has 12 volts and their is no drain down. Ater reading a number of forums it seem their are a number of people that have this problem or somewhere in between. I have been on the NTSB web site and wrote this up. I was surprise that no one else has brought this up so thay can get Chryler to at least think about caring. I would like to think that enough people write this problem up the NTSB has to at least say they may have a problem. The sad thing is, this may not be in the ignition. It could be anywhere in the starting curcuit, to the nutrual/park on the trans. or who knows where.
Hey durango16,

I am sorry that the TSB I provided did not address your vehicle's concern. If your vehicle is still exhibiting this behavior I would advise you to have the vehicle formally diagnosed at an FCA certified dealership. Please let me know if you have any further questions.
 
#34 ·
Cropjpr1


You will find that you will have a lot better responce if you put your question in the TJ Wrangler section insted of the KJ Liberty forum.
 
#35 ·
Be advised that if you replace the ignition switch at the same time (not a requirement but I did it due to mileage) that the new switch may be slightly off with it's mounting holes. You may have to oval the brass tabs out a bit and fully rotate the switch forward so the actual switch contacts engage.

Until I figured that out only my son had the tough to start it. I thought I was losing my mind.
 
#37 ·
if i buy a new ignition switch for my jeep, how i change the skim security?
If you buy a new electrical ignition switch ie. the switch that sits on the end of the Actuator Pin Assembly which rotates as you turn the key in the ignition....you do not need to worry about the SKIM system.

This is just a mechanical switch....no programming.

If you replace the ignition tumbler assembly ie. you need to have new chipped keys cut to match the new tumbler assembly then you need the Dealers to program the new chipped keys to the original chipped key code.;)
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top