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Unread 04-21-2011, 06:23 AM   #46
07LIB
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Richmond Hill, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tpr430 View Post
Has anybody been able to locate any of the T Clamps? I'd love to do this.
check out www.keesafety.com dwilliams@keesafety.com....
In Ontario the Kee Klamp(16-6) costs about $20.00 cd.
they have an online catalog with all their products.

good luck.

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Unread 05-02-2011, 11:00 AM   #47
07LIB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07LIB View Post
I just finished putting mine on and found them to look great.
I took the Jeep for a drive with them on and immediately noticed the noise they created.
I have experienced this type of noise before in a work van with ladders on top.
The ladders with the open tubes make the same noise. The ladders with closed tubes don't make the noise.
I am going to plug the ends of the tubes and see what happens to the noise.
Will post my findings.
plugged up the holes and took it on the highway. The noise almost disappeared. I can live with the remaining musical note.
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Unread 05-02-2011, 12:28 PM   #48
95BadBoy
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Good to here.

Did you just plug the ends with silicone or a foam insert of some type?
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Unread 05-03-2011, 06:12 AM   #49
07LIB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95BadBoy View Post
Good to here.

Did you just plug the ends with silicone or a foam insert of some type?
I used a cork I got at a wine making store. They have all kinds of sizes and one should fit tightly.
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Unread 11-21-2011, 11:24 AM   #50
JimmyFW1
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Here's a new supplier:
http://www.simplyplumbing.com/fittin...-fittings.html
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Unread 11-21-2011, 12:19 PM   #51
jeeptorino68
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and another

http://www.growerssupply.com/farm/su...;pg105957.html
6$ each
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Unread 02-25-2013, 02:54 PM   #52
kidjedi
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Getting ready to put together my cross bars. The previously posted Growers Supply link for the tee clamps still works, and I also found the same clamps on Amazon. Unfortunately they are not available through Prime, so shipping is $13.04 for each clamp. I checked Ace, Lowe's, and Home Depot, but nobody had a clamp like this (only flimsier two-piece clamps for chain-link fencing).

EDIT: Looks like the Amazon seller (TekSupply) does combine shipping, so the total for four clamps is $25.92 + $16.15 shipping (a far cry from the original poster's 89 cents a piece!).

Unfortunately, the cost of pipe and clamps takes the price up to almost $70, and that's without pad or paint, so easily approaching the cost of actual Thule or Yakima cross bars on Craigslist. I will likely still go the DIY route though, because I really like the lower profile (mounted BETWEEN the rails instead of on top of them), and the conduit seems like it would be stronger than the cross bars I've seen from Thule and Yakima.

Last edited by kidjedi; 02-25-2013 at 03:23 PM..
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Unread 02-25-2013, 05:17 PM   #53
kirksjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidjedi
Getting ready to put together my cross bars. The previously posted Growers Supply link for the tee clamps still works, and I also found the same clamps on Amazon. Unfortunately they are not available through Prime, so shipping is $13.04 for each clamp. I checked Ace, Lowe's, and Home Depot, but nobody had a clamp like this (only flimsier two-piece clamps for chain-link fencing).

EDIT: Looks like the Amazon seller (TekSupply) does combine shipping, so the total for four clamps is $25.92 + $16.15 shipping (a far cry from the original poster's 89 cents a piece!).

Unfortunately, the cost of pipe and clamps takes the price up to almost $70, and that's without pad or paint, so easily approaching the cost of actual Thule or Yakima cross bars on Craigslist. I will likely still go the DIY route though, because I really like the lower profile (mounted BETWEEN the rails instead of on top of them), and the conduit seems like it would be stronger than the cross bars I've seen from Thule and Yakima.
I just made my own using a similar style as the type back in post #1, but I noticed the same thing about the price of the clamps. I instead went with a regular fence post clamp 1 3/8" x1 3/8" and they were $1.88 at my local Lowes. I bought 1 1/4" conduit which was 1 3/8" outer diameter. When constructing the bars the biggest difference from post #1 was the use of a vice. I cut each pipe to length and put the ends in the vice and ovaled the conduit back about 4" and made it the same height as the stock roof rails are thick. This compensated for the conduit being a little bigger then the stock roof rails when clamping. I then put each fence post clamp in the vice and flattened them a little to match the contour of the now flatter conduit. While the clamp is in the vice bend the top of it by tapping with a hammer, again to compensate for the thickness of the stock roof rails. I then ground about 1/8" off each clamp on the end that will attach to the stock roof rails. The last step was to grind a little channel in the ends of the conduit for the bolt to pass through. It sounds like a lot, but once I figured out the first bar, the second took 10 minutes to make. Here is a pic of the finished bars.

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Unread 02-26-2013, 03:44 PM   #54
kidjedi
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Looks great, kirksjeep. Did you use the Rustoleum bed liner spray? I've also heard of people using PlastiDip, but I think the bed liner spray would be more durable.

Those clamps you used are the "two piece" ones I was referring to. They seemed like they might work, but definitely not as sturdy as the original one piece tee clamps, thus my concern.

I assume people are using the heavier galvanized pipe, not the lighter stuff, right? Only asking because I was surprised by just HOW heavy the heavier conduit actually is (like black pipe for natural gas).
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Unread 02-26-2013, 07:07 PM   #55
kirksjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidjedi
Looks great, kirksjeep. Did you use the Rustoleum bed liner spray? I've also heard of people using PlastiDip, but I think the bed liner spray would be more durable.

Those clamps you used are the "two piece" ones I was referring to. They seemed like they might work, but definitely not as sturdy as the original one piece tee clamps, thus my concern.

I assume people are using the heavier galvanized pipe, not the lighter stuff, right? Only asking because I was surprised by just HOW heavy the heavier conduit actually is (like black pipe for natural gas).
I used bed liner. I have used plasti dip on emblems and stuff, but I think the Berliner will hold up better. The two piece clamps seem pretty strong, I weight 225 and I climbed up on them. The stock roof rails are only good for 150 lbs ( don't quote me on that number). I used electrical conduit, which is thicker then galvanized fence post, but not a thick as black pipe. I had to put a bend to the pipe as post #1 mentioned so I don't think a thicker pipe would be possible to bend without special equipment. I was able to bend mine by sliding my 2 ton jack handle in the pipe and pulling while the pipe was wedged. I didn't need much of a bend, but it had to be enough to get the bolts through for my basket.
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Unread 03-04-2013, 11:57 AM   #56
harvester
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Success here too, thanks for the guide.
jeeprack-small-.jpg  

Last edited by harvester; 03-11-2013 at 04:44 PM.. Reason: Resize picture
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Unread 03-05-2013, 02:32 PM   #57
kidjedi
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Looks good, harvester (though that photo is HUGE and forces this whole thread to be much wider than most computer screens so people have to horizontal scroll each post to read the thread now --just make sure you down size your photo next time).

I'm getting ready to do my cross bars with the original tees from the original post that a kind and generous soul sent my way.

I'm still trying to decide what material to use for the cross bars though.

For those looking in the conduit aisle at Lowe's/HD, there are two pipes: EMT and Rigid Conduit. The EMT (electrical metal tubing) is likely too weak unless you're ONLY going to load up a snow board (it also doesn not come in a size that fits the clamps snugly). The Rigid conduit is SUPER heavy and almost as thick as black pipe (though much cheaper than black pipe).

[UPDATE: I no longer think the EMT is too weak, but there is no size to work with the clamps (1" is too small, 1-1/4" is just too big), so the 1-3/8" chain link fence top rail is the way to go.]

In the plumbing aisle you've got galvanized pipe and black pipe (used for gas lines). Both of these are about the same strength as the Rigid Conduit, but more expensive.

In the outdoor section you've got 1-3/8" Top Rail for chain link fences (which is what the clamps are actually made for, so should offer the best fit). This is the cheapest of the three choices, and lies somewhere between EMT and Rigid Conduit for thickness/strength. [UPDATE: From a visual inspection, it actually seems to be the exact same gauge as the EMT.] It's a 17 gauge galvanized steel with an O.D. (outside diameter) of 1-3/8".

You can also order the top rail in vinyl coated (Lowe's) or powder coated (Home Depot) options, which might make finishing a little easier, and I assume would be a more durable finish than spraying it yourself.

I'm taking on last look today before deciding between the Rigid Conduit and chain link fence Top Rail to finish my bars. If I decide the Top Rail is strong enough, I may end up ordering the coated kind (if I can be patient enough to wait for it to arrive). If you order from a big box store and have it shipped there, shipping should be free.

[UPDATE] Just read a review on the Lowe's website that says the black coating (vinyl, according to specs) arrived scratched, so it must not be very durable. Home Depot's version says it's powder coated, so I wonder if it's any tougher. It's $26.97 for 10.5 feet of black powder coated 1-3/8" top rail delivered to the local Home Depot (the same piece of top rail uncoated is $11.31).

Last edited by kidjedi; 03-11-2013 at 08:05 PM..
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Unread 03-05-2013, 02:34 PM   #58
kidjedi
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What pipe did you use, Harvester? It looks like there is something going on (a reduction in size) where the pipe inserts into the T's, but I can't quite tell from the picture. Is there some sort of other coating (not just paint) on your crossbars?
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Unread 03-11-2013, 04:48 PM   #59
harvester
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Hey mate, I have a friend that works as a welder so he just grabbed some tubing from his workshop. Yes you are correct, he had to downsize the ends to fit in the Ts.

Just good old $2 flat black paint is all I used!
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Unread 03-11-2013, 08:28 PM   #60
kidjedi
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So... I'll revisit my previous post to hopefully clear a few things up.

I completed my bars with 1-3/8" top rail. If you feel the 17 gauge steel is not strong enough, the 1" EMT (electrical conduit --also 17 gauge) will slide into the 1-3/8" top rail with no play (it's a perfect fit). The combo is slightly lighter than the Rigid Conduit, and it will save you a couple bucks. The Rigid Conduit is around $25 for 10'. A 10' top rail is around $11, and 10' of 1" EMT is just over $6.

I put the 1-3/8" top rail in the tee clamps with no bend in the pipe, and with no shims on the side rails the cross bar rests on the ridges in the Liberty roof. When I shimmed the tee clamps up with an old bicycle tire cut on the bias (this works great because it keeps the end of the pipe and the set screws from scratching your side rails) and left the cross bars unbent, I could stand on the cross bar (I weigh around 160 lbs.) and the pipe would flex just enough to kiss the roof ridges (maybe an 1/8")... you'd probably be safe, but I decided to bend the pipe. In addition to making it clear the roof without issue, the bend on each end of the pipe ads enough rigidity that the pipe barely flexes at all now.

The largest pipe bender (made for conduit) at Lowe's/HD is not wide enough to accommodate the 1-3/8" top rail, so I placed 3/4" black pipe in a vice with 4" sticking out. I then slide the top rail over that pipe to bend it. It worked pretty well, though it's not really an exact science (you have to eye ball it).

I purchased a can of Rustoleum bed liner ($7), and also a can of Rustoleum undercoat (also $7) to see if the "rubberized" material might be better for the crossbars. It's not. Even after several days of curing, the material moves when you push it with your fingers and peels off pretty easily. If something were rubbing up against it or you clamped things around it, I think it would fail, so the bed liner spray is definitely the way to go. Even the bed liner chips off when you tighten the bolts around the side rails (which I expected).

I drove to several places looking for a replacement for the set screw in the tee clamp for the cross bars (so I could drill holes in the ends of the cross bars and have a bolt thread through the tee clamp AND through the cross bar ends), but a 2" long 1/2" diameter FINE (20) thread is required, and nobody carries anything that long with threads that go all the way to the head (which is necessary). Rather than wait for a specialty place to open (I did this on a Sunday) or try to order something on line, I'm just using the included set screw for now. With the set screws tightened, I cannot twist the cross bars, so I think it's fine.

Champagne corks are the perfect size for plugging up the ends of the cross bars.

I'll post some pics when I get time to upload to an external server.

Last edited by kidjedi; 03-11-2013 at 09:49 PM..
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