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-   -   how to remove connector to oil pressure switch (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f28/how-remove-connector-oil-pressure-switch-659239/)

hawk1996 12-28-2008 07:12 PM

how to remove connector to oil pressure switch
 
On a 2002 liberty v6 does anyone know how to remove the connector on the oil pressure switch? I have pushed down on the little tab and pulled but it still won't come off, is there some other trick I should be doing?

XR 12-28-2008 08:38 PM

Clean the connector and you'll see a red tab.Push the red tab to the left until it clicks and then push down on the release tab.The red tab is called a secondary lock.

vXxo0oxXv 03-08-2012 01:33 PM

How to remove the oil pressure switch
 
Just did this on my '05 Liberty.

The switch is about 2 inches above the oil filter.

There is a red tab on electrical connector you have to push to one side. It will click when you push it. On the same side of the connector, there is a black release tab you have to squeeze fairly tightly, and the connector should pull out. I broke the tab on mine, trying to pry it in the wrong direction (away from the connector), and had to use a dentist hook to pull up on the clips that the release tab controls.

Once you have the electrical connector removed, it's time to unscrew the actual switch.

Using a pressure switch socket, a ratchet, and a 6-inch extention, I was able to unscrew the switch without removing any other parts (a little oil will leak).

Ratcheted the new sender in.
Threw some electrolytic grease on the connector, and reconnected it.

Now I'm waiting to see if P0522 code goes away :)

extrucker 03-26-2012 09:32 AM

Beware
 
Verify correct pressure with a real gauge to eliminate internal problems. After trying 2 after-market oil pressure sensors with no results, I installed an OEM sensor, problem solved.

OrneryA 06-12-2013 01:12 AM

Replacing the Oil Pressure Sender Unit
 
After reading the previous posts the job became doable. However, since I'm an amateur weekend mechanic, not all of my questions where answered. This is what I did to the letter: drove the truck up on ramps, removed the + battery terminal, took off the crash guard & unscrewed the oil filter. As stated before, the electrical connector to the sensor has a double locking feature with a red tab that serves as the backup. I used a snake camera to see from underneath through the space between front bumper & torsion rod. Imagine looking at the red tab from the wire end & seeing it on top of the connector. The red tab sticks out more on the left side. This is the locked position. Push it to the right & it will click. I couldn't get my fingers up there so I used a screw driver. I then squeezed the connector from top to bottom (or with fingers at 12 & 6 o'clock) & the electrical connector came off. I couldn't see exactly what was being pinched since it was too dark & dirty up there. The removal socket is a deep 1 1/16" from Sears with a 1/2" drive ($12). The socket has a 1 3/4" well which just barely covers the sensor's crown & makes just acceptable contact with the 6 sided nut. Put on a universal joint, 12" of extensions & a ratchet. I easily unscrewed the sensor & tossed it on the front lawn in disdain. I cleaned the threaded area well with tissues & started the new sensor (Mopar $52) by screwing it in by hand carefully. Tightened it with the set up I used to take the old one out with, cleaned the electrical connector with tissue & snapped it in place. Pushed the red tab from right to left where it clicked. Installed the oil filter, crash pan, + battery cable. The Liberty was leaking 2 quarts every 5,000 miles & the whole underside was a mess. I had visions of a huge garage bill to have the problem fixed, but with the special socket/sensor/snake camera I only spent $157. The camera & socket I can use for other projects so the cost was the $52 Mopar sensor. I didn't want to go cheap with it & have problems later.

streetglideok 06-12-2013 07:59 AM

You guys were very wise in using the mopar part. I've had the bad luck of arguing with service writers as they sell the cheap parts store garbage, when you really must use the oe part. Aftermarket sensors just don't hold up at all, as they are typically cheap Chinese knock offs.

olliehopnoodle 06-14-2013 08:34 AM

This job is much easier if you remove the shroud, mechanical fan and belt.

DarkSport11 06-14-2013 09:25 PM

After trying 2 autoparts store cheap Chinese pieces of crap I ordered an OEM part today.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360632324520...84.m1423.l2649

galexander17 01-20-2014 01:04 PM

I have a 02 jeep liberty 3.7L, is it a fairly easy process to replace the unit? A better question is, do i have to remove and parts to work on it? thanks

02blue 01-20-2014 03:15 PM

It can be a knuckle buster but best to do it when changing the oil. It's right above the filter. See OrneryA post above. 1 1/16 deep socket fits like a glove. Make sure you get the Mopar sensor. The aftermarkets fit but are not the correct sensor. I used an AM one a few years back and it would trip the warning light around 1500-2000 RPMs all the time. If I remember correctly the aftermarket sensors are designed for gauges not the simple warning light we have.

I guess if you have a reason you could move the PS pump out of the way and get to it from the front but not necessary.

AVR2 01-20-2014 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 02blue (Post 19585329)
I If I remember correctly the aftermarket sensors are designed for gauges not the simple warning light we have

Depends where you buy. If you look on RockAuto, for instance, the different sensors listed under "oil pressure sender/switch" have a note indicating if they're for use with a gauge or a light.

Quote:

Originally Posted by galexander17
is it a fairly easy process to replace the unit? A better question is, do i have to remove and parts to work on it?

The FSM procedure involves lifting the Jeep so that the front suspension droops and then going in from the driver side wheelwell; once you remove the splash shield, you can get directly onto the sensor.

I'll be replacing mine at the same time I replace my belt and tensioner. With the fan and belt out of the way there should be plenty of access.

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l1...ps9c2c3a5a.jpg

02blue 01-21-2014 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AVR2 (Post 19601129)
Depends where you buy. If you look on RockAuto, for instance, the different sensors listed under "oil pressure sender/switch" have a note indicating if they're for use with a gauge or a light.

Excellent, they didn't have the "light" option when I ordered mine a few years ago. Wonder if someone complained?


Quote:

Originally Posted by AVR2 (Post 19601129)
The FSM procedure involves lifting the Jeep so that the front suspension droops and then going in from the driver side wheelwell; once you remove the splash shield, you can get directly onto the sensor.

Great tip.


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