Part 2 - continued
With the arm out, you now have a good view of the front and back A-arm pockets. Pic does not show the marking lines. And then a little grinding, and the final opening.
Then a little tape and etching primer and some satin black after that. After a little dirt gets on these, they'll look like factory.
Just a comparison of the factory arm and the Al's 4.5 arm
Install your new Al's arm, insert both flag bolts and start the nuts. Again these are 18mm. These should be torqued to 90 ft lbs. I could not get my torque wrench in there, sooo mashed them as tight as possible with the ratcheting wrench.
Now disconnect the lower sway bar nut (18mm) and remove the flag type bolt (is attached to the lower A-arm). This works best if you have both fronts on jack stands and fully drooped. Nut was rusted on a bit with this 05. Used a 18V battery impact, and the nut relented. Pic actually is from the reinstall after cleaning things up a bit, but shows you the location.
Now remove the lower nut on the clevis (21mm) and tap out the flag bolt, again this one was tickled a bit with the impact. Then remove the upper clevis bolt. Use a pry bar to open up the top of the clevis a bit to aid in it's removal. A couple of taps from your BFH may be needed to loosen, but was not called for on this one. Work the clevis down and off the bottom of the strut, and set it aside.
Up topside, break the 4 strut nuts loose. Then you may need a helper to hold the strut from underneath - or just wire it up to the upper bump stop to keep it from falling while you remove the top bolts. Remove the 4 nuts and set on engine cover or where ever. Back in wheel well, hold the strut and remove your support wire, and guide it down and out.
Struts are sided, so grab the new Franky one that matches the one you just removed - maneuver it up into the wheel well and support with the wire you just took off the old unit, maybe set a rubber mallet under it. Install the 4 strut nuts in the engine bay and torque them to 80 ft lbs. Remove support wire.
I really hate rusty stuff on any of my rigs, so the clevis needed a little cleaning with a high speed wire brush and some hammered silver rustoleum before reinstall. Maneuver the clevis over axle shaft and wiggle it onto the new strut.
Reinstall the bottom bolt onto the clevis and torque to 110 ft lbs. Some places I've seen recommend that a ratchet strap was needed to pull the clevis in far enough to insert the flag bolt, did not have that problem. May only pertain to higher lifts on gasser models. Then install the top clevis bolt and torque to 45 ft lbs (seen both 60# & 45# for this). Do yourself a huge favor by putting a little anti seize on all of the bolts going back onto your Jeep. Does wonders for anyone living in the salt belt and only takes a second or two.
Remove the support wire attached to the knuckle and upper bump stop, mate up the the new Al's upper ball joint into the knuckle, install new larger nut and torque to 60 ft lbs, install cotter pin and bend the end over. There are some decent installation pics that come with the new Al's arms that pertain to the possible need of a washer above the upper ball joint nut before torqueing the nut down. Just mentioning.
Topside again, reinstall the power steering reservoir bracket. Install the turbo solenoid, then the PS reservoir.
Install the air box. On this one, it did not want to readily pop back into the grommets in the fender-well. Used the 2" BFH with handle side down, positioned over the 3 bottom tabs of the air box and rapped the top of the BFH with a rubber mallet a couple of times to re-seat them. Install the air intake tube onto the air box and tighten worm clamp. Put in your filter (new if needed) and install the lid. Back to the bottom, install the sway bar bottom end link to lower A-arm and torque to 85 ft lbs.
NICE !! Things are pretty much in place for the passenger side.
Now repeat this on the drivers side. A few things are different, like the upper A-arm nut closest to the firewall I accessed from the underside of the CRD, the CV shaft seems to be a little shorter - so a little less room. I opted to cover the CV boot with a heavy towel just in case - so as not to chance a rip, or tear a boot when removing the clevis. Didn't have a problem there but that would be a pain you don't want. Just saying. There is also a breather hose that is on one of the front strut nuts, it just prys off. Don't forget to put it back on at reassembly.
After completing the drivers side arm and strut , go topside and reinstall the battery tray and power distribution box over the tabs on batt tray. Then attach the harness and other items back onto the batt tray edges with the X-mas tree push pins. Hopefully you did not destroy the push pins during disassembly.
Drop the battery into the tray and install the batt retaining clamp. Install positive battery clamp first, then the negative - and tighten down the clamps.
Congrats, if all has went well - you are done with the front end installation & out of the engine compartment. And things look like this.
If you are doing spacers or adapters, put em on per manufacturers instructions. Mount the wheels and torque them to 100 ft lbs. Remove the jack stands, and chock the front wheels.
On to the rear - this end is a lot easier, soooo.. saved it for last.
Are your front wheels chocked? Your E-brake should still be engaged. Brake your wheel lugs loose. Place a 4 tn jack under the pumpkin & lift high enough to place jack stands under the uni-frame on both sides in front of the lower control arms (seemed like a good spot) so when you lower the jack the wheels are still off the ground. Remove your lugs and wheels.
Remove your rear shock, bottom has both 15mm and 18mm , top is 15mm. Repeat on other side. There is now enough room to wiggle out the stock coils with a little pushing down on the axel. Super easy at full droop.
Now use a center punch and hammer to make your mark in the center of the bottom spring perch on both sides.
Drill out a 5/16's pilot hole (or a hair smaller) and thread the self tapping bolt (15mm or 9/16ths) that came with your Franky 1" rear bump stops through your pilot hole to get some treads worked into it. Remove the self tapper and duplicate this on the other side. Having done this on my TJ, and kinda done it before - I actually used a step bit to drill out the holes. It's shorter and knew how far to drill into the perch. Faster and easier. If you go too deep with a step bit though - you'll be picking up new self tapping bolts. Set bolts aside for now. Pics on next page.
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