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Unread 10-20-2005, 04:38 PM   #1
arieljeep
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Help brake job!!!

My frind has 2003 Liberty and he is getting a brake job done to his jeep, roters and pads on the back and front, and its going to be $485 for the jod, is the a lot? or its ok, and is it posibell the the on a 2003 jeep that is a city driver the roters will not be good, the guy tolled him the he has to get new roters

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Last edited by arieljeep; 10-20-2005 at 04:40 PM.. Reason: spelling
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Unread 10-21-2005, 01:01 AM   #2
swyszomirski
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how much the rotors wear all depends on the driving style. I live in the mountains in Santa Cruz, Cal. and my brakes are beginning to squeal at 26100 miles, which I think is great mileage for the brakes considering all the hills I drive. The price for the job is probably ok, but then again it depends on where he gets it done, in the more expensive part of town it will be more expensive, etc. I realy haven't priced brakes with a full install because I always do my own, but it is prosible that the rotors can't be turned flat and will need to be replaced.
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Unread 10-22-2005, 08:22 AM   #3
libertygrl
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I had the same thing done on my '03 and it cost me about that much...
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Unread 10-26-2005, 11:57 AM   #4
rwmjeepjk
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Does anyone know where to find instructions on how to change the pads/rotors? I am interested in changing my own, I already do most all of the other maintenance, engine work, and upgrades, but have never attempted brakes.
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Unread 10-26-2005, 12:13 PM   #5
swyszomirski
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Step:
1- pull off the tire

2- Un-bolt the caliper (where the pads are held in)

3- Pop out brake pads from caliper

4- If you have ABS, then you will need the special caliper pusher that turns the caliper piston as it pushes it back. If no ABS, then a regular caliper pusher will be fine. Make sure in either case to put a block of wood between the end of the pusher and the caliper piston to keep from damaging the piston.

5- I can't remember if there is another piece of metal that holds the caliper to the hub or not, but if there is, remove it.

6- swap rotor

Then reverse process.

All bolts are most likely metric.
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Unread 10-26-2005, 01:39 PM   #6
festerw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swyszomirski
4- If you have ABS, then you will need the special caliper pusher that turns the caliper piston as it pushes it back. If no ABS, then a regular caliper pusher will be fine. Make sure in either case to put a block of wood between the end of the pusher and the caliper piston to keep from damaging the piston.
He he, where I come from that's called a c-clamp.
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Unread 10-26-2005, 09:47 PM   #7
LostRenegade
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It's not that hard. I did it myself for the first time about a month ago. I spent about $350 for everything. I picked up slotted cross drilled rotors on E-Bay for about $240, Hawk front pads for $60 and Autozone cheap ones for the rear $20. Plus about another $30 for misc stuff.
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Unread 10-28-2005, 11:31 AM   #8
rwmjeepjk
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Is there any "bleeding" of the brakes involved? I am comfortable in doing all of the other work but get nervous about the thought of that important step.
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Unread 10-28-2005, 12:37 PM   #9
swyszomirski
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No, why would you bleed the lines on a typical brake job? You don't totally remove the caliper from the vehicle, you just un-bolt it from the hub = no bleeding, and if you see brake fluid = bad bad
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2004 Liberty (4x4) 5spd. - Rusty's air tube, light bar, front hitch with Mile Marker 8000, air horns, Megawarrior roof basket and fog lights. Sirius
Fighter Jet grip stick for a shifter....


http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/798121
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