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Unread 06-30-2013, 10:06 AM   #1
dfk56
Registered User
2005 KJ Liberty 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: heathsprings, sc
Posts: 1
Head Gasket

Daughter ran 2005 jeep liberty sport with 3.7 engine hot until it shutdown . Head gasket blown. Have drained all water out of engine and taken valve cover off. Ready to remove heads . Can someone explain to me how to remove timing chain so i can pull the head off ?

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Unread 06-30-2013, 12:14 PM   #2
TwoBobsKJ
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2003 KJ Liberty 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northern, OH
Posts: 572
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfk56 View Post
Daughter ran 2005 jeep liberty sport with 3.7 engine hot until it shutdown . Head gasket blown. Have drained all water out of engine and taken valve cover off. Ready to remove heads . Can someone explain to me how to remove timing chain so i can pull the head off ?
The timing chain cover must be removed so you can get to the hydraulic lash adjusters and the guides. Once the adjusters and guides are removed then the chain for the head you're working on can be removed. I've attached the appropriate pages from the Factory Service Manual with the head removal instructions. NOTE: Follow the instructions to the letter for setting the timing chains. If you don't your Jeep will never start and you'll need to tear it back down again.

Cylinder Head Removal and Installation - Jeep FSM

Timing Chain Installation - 3.7L

Bob
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Unread 06-30-2013, 02:46 PM   #3
olliehopnoodle
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1982 FSJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: mesa, az
Posts: 1,037
I don't mean to be a bummer. You will want to get those heads check for warping. It's most likely not just a head gasket.

I just had the timing cover off my 3.7. I had the passenger side secondary timing tensenior go bad and had to replace it.

I didn't get a chance to remove the chains, which you will need to do in order to remove the heads. I did have to chase down a HLA that went bad as well. This required the removal of the rocker arms.

You might consider getting miller special tool 8516. This makes removeal/installation of the rocker arms much more easy:

https://millerspecialtools.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=567

I also discovered the 'loan a tool' damper installer did not work. The fitting on the end won't slip into the crank. The factory bolt wasn't long enough to get the damper started. So I picked up a 40mm 1.5pitch 120mm bolt. I had to order on line. This allowed me to get the damper started without beating it with a hammer.

Fair warning. If you remove the secondary tensioners there is a plate behind them. So be careful not to let them drop into the oil pan. I didn't remove the primary one so I have no advice on that.

Finally, the timing chain cover doesn't have a gasket, special RTV is used. There is a kit at the local parts stores that include the 3 'o ring' gaskets for the water passage (one is not an O ring) and the right gasket RTV. The service manual said not to use 'oil based' solvents. I used rubbing alchohol and a dremel with a polishing brush, the white one, nothing abrasive.

Although I tried to drain the cooling system I still had coolant run into the engine when I removed the timing cover. Probably about a pint or so. So I drained the oil. It sat for a week or two before I got to draining it so I am pretty sure the water went to the bottom of the pan. I actually jacked up the front the the truck a little to help out. I loosened the bolt a little and let the water drain out. Once I saw oil I opened it up and let it pour out.

Good luck gettig the heads back on with the engine in the liberty. That looks like a tight fit.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 06:45 PM   #4
PeteH
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Palm Harbor, FLORIDA
Posts: 7
Determine which head is compromised by doing a compression check. The passenger head is notorious for dropping valve seats, especially #2 intake. Remove the air filter, coolant reservoir, intake manifold, valve cover, etc.and flipped the A/c compressor out of the way. Remove the oil filler, and the A/C compressor mounting bolt. This gives access to the upper timing chain tensioner bolts that must be removed to free the chain and remove head. Turn the engine over until the front crank pulley mark is in alignment with the timing mark on the front cover. Confirm that the cam chain pulleys are level- see internet pics for description. Remove the camshaft chain pulley. Now the outboard belt tensioner (nearest the fender) on the passenger side can now be slid out. Remove the cam pulley and wire up the chain so it doesn't slide down into the block. Pull the head and vac out the rest of the water. Fix and reverse process.
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