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Unread 08-02-2013, 01:47 PM   #1
KLT88YJ
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To gear 4.56's or NOT???

Alrighty gang Ill be re-gearing my 02 KJ in the next few weeks, I'm currently running 31x10.50x15 with the factory 3.73 and the pre-branded JBA Tommudd lift, which is netting me 4.75" of lift in the front. I'm looking at swapping in 4.56 gears as I'm looking to get 33x10.50 and or 32's in the next few months. Mainly planning on the 33's, I'm curious if the 4.56 will be to low of a gear until then. I'm mainly driving highway at speeds of 65 mph and traveling 45 miles round trip for work.

I run 4.10's in my 88 YJ 258ci 6 cylinder with 34" super swamper LTB's and it's ok although 4.56 would be ideal. Knowing that there's ABSOLUTELY no comparison between these motors and jeeps, im looking for some input and thoughts as I don't want to have to do another regear down the road. Tommudd, TJKJ...???

Thanks

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Unread 08-02-2013, 02:39 PM   #2
tommudd
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So you are buying the steel diff from Jeepinbyal??
Also 4.5 inches of lift from the econo lift?
Are you sure ?
What do you measure from middle of the wheel to bottom of the flare?
Have you already done the alignment etc ?

4 inches of lift is good for 32s, for 33s you'd need more lift or some serious hacking
only way to do 4.56s is to go with the steel diff in front
4.10s is marginal with 32s I wish I had 4.56s to be truthful
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Unread 08-02-2013, 04:48 PM   #3
KLT88YJ
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Hey Tom thanks for the fast reply! Yep looking at getting the steel front diff. Just rethought my comment as it's not the econo lift but the lift using the OME 790 Diesel springs, Daystar lower isolators...that netted me 4.75". As far as the exact measurements are concerned it's been roughly 6-8 months since I last measured (bottom of flare to center of hub) but I wanna say based off of memory it was about 23.50"-23.75". I'd measure it now but it's currently at the shop awaiting a "heart transplant" and planning on doing the regear at the same time.

I know even with my pinch welds pounded in fit would be tight (potentially as is), I'd probably end up trimming the body of the flare as well as remove the splash guard liner. Something like William waddy or waddikins did over on LOST.

Thanks Lyle
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Unread 08-02-2013, 04:54 PM   #4
tommudd
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I'd never chop into the body like they did. Cutting into the main structure is never good but hey whatever. If you're at those heights good luck with CVs etc .
Steel diff then yes go 4.56s esp. if you're going to 33s . You'll still wish it was even lower geared at times.
Don't know anyone who has mixed Daystar and 790s and lived to tell about it.
Gasser Franky parts was enough with 790s
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Unread 08-02-2013, 04:59 PM   #5
seabass1858
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I get away with 4.10s and 32s. I wouldnt dare put 33s on my rig unless I had custom hd cvs, d30 steel diff from jba, and 4.56s would deffinately be the recipe and i still plan to use both of my detroit trutracs which are a god-send in a pennsylvania blizzard taking my wife to the hospital when her gaul bladder bursted. I wouldnt trust an ambulance in that.
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Unread 08-02-2013, 05:01 PM   #6
KLT88YJ
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No No No!!! Definitely not chopping into the body (as that's the jeeps structure), only looking to trim the plastic flare up and possibly back a bit as a last resort. However I do like the factory "sleeper" look! I've already purchased and installed the cut/ shaved down CV's so I should be "ok" in that department as I'm not planning on going up in height...at least until I can the JBA coilovers!!!

So basically in a nut shell you think the 4.56 will be fine. Just don't want it screaming going down the highway at 60+ mph lol!

Thanks again Tom,
Lyle
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Unread 08-02-2013, 05:10 PM   #7
seabass1858
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I have the 45rfe in my 02 and 4.10s and I scream down the highway. Im at 2k rpms at 45 and I get into OD at 40. its not that bad I drove without OD for most of mylife lol. this is what mine looks like
0720131417-1.jpg  
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Unread 08-02-2013, 05:20 PM   #8
KLT88YJ
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Seabass thanks for the reply. I have the same trans too. I'm looking to also offset not only the tires but also the weight of my bumpers and skids (ARB w/ warn M8000, Rocklizard full rear system, full engine to gas tank skids and sliders) so the engine doesn't have to work as hard to push everything.

BTW lockers are definitely the way to go!
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Unread 08-02-2013, 05:24 PM   #9
seabass1858
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got full skids and recievers for a winch either for front or rear. i was looking at the setup jba offers (MATRIX setup) where I would use my existing bumper. I also put a transgo hd2 kit in my 45rfe. I get almost 24mpg with my setup if i keep my foot out of it and drive 65.

Last edited by seabass1858; 08-02-2013 at 05:56 PM..
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Unread 08-02-2013, 07:20 PM   #10
tjkj2002
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Where you live 4.56's should be plenty for 33" tires,just plan on going through alot of CV's(cut or not),front bearings, and front diff mounts with that much lift.


I run 5.13's for 35" tires and that is not enough really for here in Colorado(I also have the 45RFE trans),when I was back home in South Dakota at 1500' elevation I was leaving rubber at every light,dropping 5000" in elevation was like adding a supercharger.But here at 6200'+ 5.38's or deeper would be much better.
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Unread 08-02-2013, 08:30 PM   #11
KLT88YJ
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Tjkj thanks for the reply. You say plan on cv's and bearings, is that mainly due impart to the outbound weight weight and stress of the tire and wheel combo or just the down side of ifs?

Lol...gotta love that "free" supercharger!

Thanks
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Unread 08-02-2013, 09:22 PM   #12
tjkj2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLT88YJ View Post
Tjkj thanks for the reply. You say plan on cv's and bearings, is that mainly due impart to the outbound weight weight and stress of the tire and wheel combo or just the down side of ifs?
Both.
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Unread 08-02-2013, 09:29 PM   #13
tommudd
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Plus that much lift, pushing the limits for sure, so lots more wear
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